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Master cyliner screws 1 - Kroil 0

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by HalfCentury, Feb 18, 2009.

  1. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Squirted some Kroil on to the front brake cylinder screws last night.
    Tried to remove the screws this morning.
    No go.
    The heads are stripped so I tried the Sears screw remover tips.

    The front brake works fine so I am in no hurry. I do have good screws from the parts bike to use as replacements.

    I could conceivably just swap the cylinders.

    Any opinions?
     
  2. bill

    bill Active Member

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    Interesting you couldn't get them off with the screw removers. I used a nail set on mine. Make a dimple on the edge of head the angle the set and drive the screw to loosen head.

    Someone shared that trick a while a go and it has worked well for me.
     
  3. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    I ended up using the Craftsman screw extractor and it worked. Did you break the extractor, or just make a bigger hole in the screw?
     
  4. greggvickrey

    greggvickrey Member

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    +1 with Bill on the nail set. I had one of those buggers that wouldn't come loose for nothing, soak many days in rust eater. Stripped the head, only thing that worked was the nail set & hammer it into submission.
     
  5. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Fitz, the screw heads are almost complete "holed out". Not much left of the original phillips slots.

    I have a nail set that I can try. Can't hurt.

    Thanks guys.
     
  6. Hack

    Hack Member

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    Another method that is similar to the nail set and/or cold chisel is to use a spring loaded centre punch (SLCP) around the edge of the screw in the direction of removal. I has a stuck carb hat screw and when I used the SLCP you could actually see rust flying off. Might be worth a try.
     
  7. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    No joy. Tried the center punch and it just pushes the slots metal around.
    I have sprayed Kroil on the screw more than a couple of times.

    It looks like switching master cylinders with the parts bike is on the horizon.
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Just drill-out the screws and re-tap the two holes at the next metric oversize.

    You'll have to run the drill through the two holes on the cover too.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    If you CAREFULLY drill away at the heads with increasing-size bits you should be able to eventually drill the tapered head off the screw and lift the cover off leaving two ragged stubs that might more willingly be extracted with vice-grips and heat.

    I can't believe the Craftsman screw extractor didn't work. Are you using the double-ended type? I used mine on two MC screws (one on each bike) on the big phillips that holds the clutch cable bracket on, and on one sidestand switch screw and it worked every time. I used my cordless drill so I could go slow but still have plenty of torque.
     
  10. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Fitz, I have used an impact wrench on the phillips screws on the cover plates and have 100% success so far. No such luck on the master cylinder screws.

    Rick, what size tap and screw do I need to get to do the drill and tap and replace?

    Thanks guys......
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember exactly what size that new hole got tapped out to.
    I'll have to pull-out on of those Cap Screws and measure the threads.
    I should be able to get that done by this evening, sometime.
     
  12. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    I've had luck here with left handed drill bits, a bit larger than the screw diameter. As they cut through the back side of the head they tend to grab and run the screw out. When not, the head comes off and they are usually easy to unscrew then.
     
  13. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    MiCarl

    The Sears EzOut is a left handed drill bit for all intents and purposes. The screw metal is so soft that the EzOut just chews up the head slots.

    Rick,

    Thanks. I will try to get the tap and screws once I know what to get. All of my taps are English. I don't own any metric taps, yet.
     
  14. bill

    bill Active Member

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    Hey any excuse to buy tools :D I think you 'll find them required. I didn't own any taps until I started fixing up mine. I have used them on several occasions already.
     
  15. flash1259

    flash1259 Member

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    Try a set of vise grips, I tried and tried on mine but i could not get them loose or open without distroying the body. what did I do? Bought a brand new one off of ebay for 40 dollars no regrets here.

    good luck
     
  16. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    +1 on an excuse to buy tools!

    Seriously, a cheap metric tap and die set is almost a necessity for working on one of these things, even if the PO wasn't some sort of Neanderthal. (Carb sync: "so easy a caveman could do it" er...at least TRY anyway)
    I was blessed with a fastener-swapping PO, so I've put mine to great use already too.
     
  17. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Will do, fellas. I will get the metric taps and some new screws.

    Getting the front brake cylinder and fork seals up to snuff are on my list for pre-spring tuneup.
     
  18. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    I have one of the screws off of the parts bike master cylinder.
    What are the threads of this screw. M4.5 ?
    If so, then M5 is the next over-size?
     
  19. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Oh, and yeah Fitz, carb synch is almost brainless with the bottles. I may make a set and send them to you so you can try them out.
     
  20. HalfCentury

    HalfCentury Member

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    Looked up Harbor Freight on their web site. $25 gets a nice metric set of taps and dies. I'm headed there in an hour or so.
     

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