My 81 XJ650 build

Brand new cluster, didn't work in old cluster either as soon as I put LED signals in, it worked before i swapped signals, I checked with meter but its a digital meter and I don't think it was reading the intermittent voltage, grabbing a better meter from work today to check again. I did not check continuity for the ground, thats a good idea. however I really feel that its something to do with the LED's because it worked before I put those in. According to wiring diagram in Haynes, it looks like the indicator is parallel to the signals so amp draw should not matter through signals but who knows?

 

have you checked all the wiring connectors involved?

FU

 

i have to get the better meter today and check if im getting any voltage there but i think the connectors are good.

 

ok guys, update. ive got voltage, the problem is that, there is one power wire for the signal indicator, so at some point, both side signal wires are going to have to connect to that wire to flash indicator, so what I need is a relay that interupts the other left side when you put the right side on, and vice versa. I think thats the only way to make it work? I have the electronic relay so they flash but its a 2 prong and unable to do this. what have other people done? im thinking the only way to get this done is to install a 12v relay.

 

Is this the little mini-gauge with the idiot lights built into it? If so, and I've had this same problem with that gauge, I just left one of the signals off the wire to the indicator. I think it only worked on my left indicator, not the right one, never bothered me.

 

yeah same one. there has got to be a way!

 

I added LED turn signals to an old Honda that I had and this is what I did. I used an electronic relay so that the LEDs would flash (not enough resistance to do it with a standard relay as stated earlier in the thread) and put it on the ground side of the circuit. In pseudo-circuit language, this is the flow: battery - fuse - switch - turn signal (left or right) - turn signal relay - gauge cluster indicator - ground. If you set it up this way, the power has to go through your cluster to get to ground, meaning that you should be able to have the indicator on the cluster work with both left and right turn signals. Hope this solves it...

 

TURN SIGNAL RELAY ("FLASHER") and SELF-CANCELLER:

tsrs1) OEM turn signal system FLASHER and SELF-CANCELLER RELAY. In order to design a "self-canceling" turn signal system, Yamaha chose to use a simple but very different style turn signal Flasher than what is used in almost all other vehicle applications. Of course, the unique design of this flasher unit makes it, let's say, "pricey" to say the least! However, if you want your self-canceling feature to work then you'll have to use this original flasher. NOTE: many aftermarket mechanical or solid-state flashers will not function (at all) in place of the original flasher, and even the ones that do (see below) will disable the use of the self-canceller feature from operating.

Also, if you substitute LED bulbs in your turn signals for the standard incandescent bulbs, then the stock flasher (which is mechanical) will not see enough of an electrical load to be able to flash correctly, if at all. In such a situation, the stock flasher is not defective, it is just designed to operate at a much higher voltage draw than LED lights provide, and you will need to replace the stock flasher with an aftermarket solid-state flasher. NOTE: the use of most aftermarket, solid-state flasher relays will defeat the self-canceller feature of the original system.


NOTE: when using any of these aftermarket flasher units on bikes with a single dash indicator bulb for the turn signals (XJ550 Maxim, XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim, and 1983-84 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim), it will be necessary to replace the stock incandescent dash indicator bulb with a polarized LED bulb.


HCP14788 Aftermarket solid-state turn signal FLASHER. For all XJ550, XJ650, all XJ750 non-X, all XJ900RK, RL, and N/FN models, and XJ1100 models. These units will not work with LED bulbs. Plugs directly into the stock wiring harness 3-place flasher connector plug. Your original turn signal canceller unit will not operate properly with this style flasher, and it must be replaced with the HCP16880 adapter plug below. Will require the use of the HCP11105 or HCP15149 mounting grommet.

HCP16921 Aftermarket solid-state turn signal FLASHER. For all XJ550, XJ650, all XJ750 non-X, all XJ900RK, RL, and N/FN models, and XJ1100 models. These units will work with both incandescent and LED bulbs. Plugs directly into the stock wiring harness 3-place flasher connector plug. Your original turn signal canceller unit will not operate properly with this style flasher, and it must be replaced with the HCP16880 adapter plug below. Will require the use of the HCP11105 or HCP15149 mounting grommet.

HCP353 Aftermarket heavy-duty, solid-state turn signal FLASHER. For all XJ550, XJ650, all XJ750 non-X, all XJ900RK, RL, and N/FN models, and XJ1100 models. These units will work with both incandescent and LED bulbs. Plugs directly into the stock wiring harness 3-place flasher connector plug. Your original turn signal canceller unit will not operate properly with this style flasher, and it must be replaced with the HCP16880 adapter plug below. Will require the use of the HCP11105 or HCP15149 mounting grommet.



HCP16880 Aftermarket turn signal flasher self-canceller ADAPTER PLUG for use with replacement turn signal flasher relays. The use of solid state aftermarket turn signal flasher units will defeat the original self-canceller unit, and in order for the aftermarket flasher relays to operate properly, you must bypass the original canceller unit. This completely "plug-and-play" adapter provides the proper ground path for the relay. Each:



HCP361NW Aftermarket turn signal warning WHITE LED BULB, for all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, for use with any of our aftermarket turn signal flasher units above. Slightly brighter than stock incandescent bulb. Each:

HCP356NW Aftermarket turn signal warning WHITE LED BULB, for all 1981-83 XJ550 Maxim, 1982-83 XJ650 Maxim, and 1983 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, for use with any of our aftermarket turn signal flasher units above. Slightly brighter than stock incandescent bulb. Each:

 

I was drawing some stuff out yesterday and came up with this solution as well. Have not wired it in yet but hoping to get some time this weekend. thanks for the help!

 

I am confused by this, but man I don't like questioning Len and his wealth of knowledge. However, most of the diagrams I have looked at installing a polarized LED with LED flashers does not seem right. First, the indicator bulb would only flash in one direction, second when the indicator bulb was polarized forward, then instead of turn signals you would have all four flashing similar to a flashing hazard condition. If this is truly plug and play it would definitely be the easiest.

It has been recommended on here before by members that the use of diodes is the proper way to go with the LED conversion and a single indicator bulb. This makes good sense and is easily done. There are even kits sold to do this or you can build your own.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/diode kit/

Here is a link on the explanation of diodes and how to add them on a Honda. The Honda shown has the same wiring configuration as the XJ with one indicator bulb.

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/electrical/vtx-1800c-diode-fix/

 

Well, all I know is that it works! We were actually working on offering an aftermarket "all-in-one" system (that could convert your flashers into 4-way flashers, or front and rear running lights/flashers, or wig-wag (police warning) effects, etc.) and gave up on that system (for a variety of reasons), but in testing it we ran into the "single turn signal indicator bulb" problem and that mfg. suggested the use of the polarized LED replacement bulb for the signal indicator, and it worked! And it works with the other "standard" electronic relays for the LED's too, so..........it is what it is (I'm not a circuit engineer, so I can't truly speak of why it works, but it does).

The diode route would also be a suitable solution (the aforementioned manufacturer suggested that solution, too), but that isn't quite as plug-and-play as what we offer.......most people don't want to chase down wires and then cut/splice/solder into their harnesses, and it was going to be a minor pain to create a plug-and-play adapter harness that incorporated diodes within them, so........there it is.

 

And I definitely would take your word for it and recommend that is the way to go then. Like you said, plug and play and no harness modification... can't beat that!

 

i tried hooking the indicator up in series with the front signals, didnt work. not enough voltage in series. BAH

 

Yep. Diodes. You have to turn a common circuit into two isolated circuits in order to retain the single bulb. A diode on each leg of the indicator bulb, oriented so as to pass current to the bulb, but not back to the other turn signal.

 

ya i think i got that prob figured, just waiting for diodes to come in. was trying to use signals as the diodes and it worked except because of the voltage drop the lights would not fire. finally got most stuff bolted back together. damn i love powdercoating!

 

wanted to post some pics/updates.

 

The off-center gauge looks pretty cool!

 

I ordered the diode kit from Superbrightleds.com worked perfectly! i knew there had to be a simply solution to such a common problem. Thanks Rooser53

 

How did you clean up your engine?

 

i didn't other than scrubbing it with tooth brushes!

 

so once again, I am having starting issues. It doesn't happen all the time which makes it difficult to troubleshoot. Wondering if you guys have any suggestions to troubleshoot. Starts fine in the afternoon, today it sounded pretty weak. after 4-5 times trying to start, battery had 11V. I need to do some testing this afternoon to rule some stuff out. Battery and plugs are 3 years old. battery on tender during the winter. topped up with water this spring. I need to meter out the coils to see if they are shot. How do I can the caps off to meter those out? I found a writeup and it says to do the primary, and the secondary without caps. any other suggestions? Thanks guys

 

3 years? probably the battery. they don't make em like they used to.

 

also looks like I'm leaking oil out of the head gasket. right at the front center bolt. ugh, what to do!

 

Make sure that it isn't really leaking from the valve cover and weeping down to where you see the leak.

 

I will double check but i'm pretty sure. bah!

 

new battery charging and going in tomorrow. after trying to start it numerous times and getting as low as 8-9v when trying to start I decided to go with a new battery and see how it goes. praying its not ignition coils!

 

Hey man I noticed you have an aftermarket headlight in the original fixture. Please inform me where you got that, what it is and is it street legal.