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My attempt at a rigid bobber XJ

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by QuarterHorse, Feb 23, 2009.

  1. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    I'm not going to "re-wire" the bike, but eliminate what I'm not using. I pulled the factory harness out and before I route it back in I'm going to cut out the majority of what I don't need and then fit and cut the rest with no engine/tins on the bike. I found this link that I'll be using for reference.

    http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html
     
  2. P2Fabrication

    P2Fabrication Member

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  3. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    P2 - Same diagram I had the link to, but thanks for the direct link to it!

    I didn't get a whole lot done last night other than get all the extra tabs/brackets taken off the frame. It's ready for bondo/sanding/paint. I should have the wheels/tires done and back over with the bike when I start on the frame again.
     
  4. Bugeater

    Bugeater Member

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    Yeah I have seen that diagram around its a good one. Thanx for the links.
    Only problem is im up in Canada and they dont let us do anything cool to our bikes!!
    I have to have break lights, turn signals, a light for my licence plate, a speedo, I can't remove the fenders and I cant have strait pipes.......... Im gonna cut it all off anyways!!!!

    Pretty soon there gonna make us ware seat belts!!!!
    I am gonna try to do all the lights and the speedo but Ill be damned if Im not choppin the s@#t out that bike!!
     
  5. Bugeater

    Bugeater Member

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    Hey Q/H I have heard there can be a few problems with the swing arm or somthing making contact when welding the frame. Did you find you had to do anything special with the weld?
     
  6. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    I did grind material away at the top of the flange to clearance it for the bolts that hold the u joint to the trans due to the angle. I didn't weld any material at the pivot of the swingarm.
     
  7. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Got the frame painted but am not happy with it. I was having some reaction issues with the paint and I'm out of time to worry about it before I move. If I keep the bike over the winter I already have changes that I want to make and I'll take care of it then. Got the diff done with filling the "Yamaha" logo and getting it painted. The sissy bar in the pic is painted as well as the lower fork triple not in the pic painted. I have to do the fork lowers and upper tripple and assembly starts tomorrow.

    [​IMG]

    Can't wait! I hope to be rolling next week with it.
     
  8. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Lots of little things kept slowing me down but I got to a decent stopping point. I keep forgetting about all the little things I hadn't painted. Tomorrow it should have the motor in and I hope quite a bit more.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. P2Fabrication

    P2Fabrication Member

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    bikes looking great i just droped mine off at the paint shop

    -tony
     
  10. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Tony I wish I could have went that route. This is being done on the CHEAP. I think I'll be around 1200 total spend including the bike.
     
  11. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Getting closer, still hope to have most of it done by the weekend and just work on the tins and finish wiring next week to fire!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Zookie400

    Zookie400 Active Member

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    lovely! how do the drag bars without risers clear the maxim tank, or do they hit?
     
  13. Stamplicker

    Stamplicker Member

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    She's Look'n Bitch'n! Can't wait to see her done!
     
  14. P2Fabrication

    P2Fabrication Member

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    my buddy has a paint booth at his house he owed me a favor thats why its getting done there or i would be painting it myself too.the bike looks sick all together/ i rode mine before paint and its a blast it handles so well and feels better than it ever did with shocks
     
  15. kevineleven

    kevineleven Member

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    You're gonna wish you did.
     
  16. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    I don't see why when if it were to try to pivot it's being transfered all the way up through the frame. It can't move or brake a weld. Even if it could "break a weld" the metal would tear before a weld should break if welded properly.
     
  17. kevineleven

    kevineleven Member

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  18. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Thanks for your input....
     
  19. twiztidframe

    twiztidframe New Member

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    I did my frame the same way and put it through hell as long as you weld the shit outta it you should be fine, on the other hand I did always kick myself for not putting on any bottem rails
     
  20. QuarterHorse

    QuarterHorse Member

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    Solid beads with good heat/penetration, I'm not worried at all.
     

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