My rebuild post

-You don't need ignition to do a compression test, you just need to spin the motor. You UNPLUG the TCI (ignition module) to do a compression test. All you need is the battery and a couple of cables; all you need to do is spin the starter.

-You need a 12mm adapter for the compression gauge; the plugs take an 18mm socket. They have a 12mm thread.

-You'll still need to get the valve clearances in spec and service and adjust the carbs.

 

Yeah I realised after I posted this that I could hotwire (so to speak) the starter motor.

12mm thread, 18mm hex socket, I knew what I meant lol. I was going to do valve clearances when the frame & swing arm were off for powder coating and the engine is on the work bench. I'm assuming that's possible?

 

Yeah, you can do the clearances on the bench no problem. Might be kinda hard to turn the motor without it moving around, but as far as the service is concerned, it's much easier.

 

RE: Powder coating the frame and swingarm:

Don't get me wrong; I love powder-coating and have a bunch of powder-coated parts on my bike. But not the frame or swingarm for a reason.

Powder coating is very tough; but it is also possible to chip it; as in "stone chip." The only way to properly repair it is to re-bake the item to fill in the chipped spot. NOT the most practical proposition when we're talking frame.

Paint on the other hand, done properly, holds up nearly as well as powder-coating but with one distinct advantage: stone chips can be easily repaired.

And unless you're building a trailer-queen show bike, you're gonna get stone chips on the frame and swingarm.

Just something to think about.

 

Thought so Luc, it also occurred to me that the engine might rock or move about a bit so I'll strap it down to do the test, or maybe enlist the aid of one of the father type fella's I got floating round to hold it down

Didn't think of that Fitz, the main reason I was going to get it powdered is that the fella how's going to do it is a family friend, so mates rates and I don't need to do any prep at all, he's also offered to weld any patches that need it once it's been blasted clean 2 birds 1 stone

 

On a side note, will an XJ600 (pre-diversion) wiring loom fit my XJ550? like this one...

 

I believe the alternator design is completely different; so probably not without a bunch of re-engineering.

 

Ok cheers Fitz. Might see about re-wiring the whole thing. A friend of mine has just finished an electrical engineering course so it would be good practice for him. Providing he does it properly

 

There are a few quirks about the wiring; the circuit layout is NOT intuitive. There is a "diode block" located in the headlight with all of the various diodes in it, but they belong to different circuits elsewhere on the bike. The alternator/charging/regulator/rectifier setup is rather unique as well, just be careful not to smoke the reg/rec in the process.

Do you have both circuit and wiring diagrams for your 550? PM me with your email address; I can send you the USA-spec diagrams; there are a few differences but not in the basic circuits required to run the bike.

 

Cheers Fitz, PM sent I'm guessing my wiring would be US spec anyway, it's an import

 

Ok update on my work so far, almost stripped enough for the engine to come out, my 12mm adaptor for the compression tester has arrived and been put somewhere safe by the missus, meaning I currently have no clue where it is waiting on a screw extractor set to arrive so I can continue stripping. In the meantime, I have been thinking about the electrics again, as far as I can see it's only really the ignition that needs re-wiring but I cant seem to find the little white connector boxes that Yamaha like to use, it wont hurt if I re-wire with something like this will it?

 

Oh yeah, just remembered something else I wanted to ask, I've seen mentioned by a few people upgrading the fuses, my XJ has blade fuses, 3 10amp from memory& one piece of wire coat hanger. Does this mean my upgrade has already been done and I just need to replace the wire coat hanger piece with a proper fuse?

 

Seems like a yes to me. Most of us use a fues block, but inline blade style fuse holders work too. Don't forget to make waterproog labels for each circuit.

The waterproof connector you linked to is a fine replacement. It is a newer type of connector than was availble when your XJ was new, and a lot of modern motorcycles use that type. Be sure that you choose the correct size of terminal for the current load, and wire, in the ignition system.

 

Just be sure to use a Fast-Blow coat hanger. :lol:

 

Excellent cheers Moe, Haha, O-n-B I've gold plated it for extra conductivity as well

 

Ok another question about my ignition barrel, I've seen some with 3 wires and 3 connectors, and some with 4. On my bike's wiring it's 3, however since someone tried to hotwire it it's possible it should be 4. It's an 83 550 Maxim (haven't worked out how to put into a sig yet lol) can anyone enlighten me as to whether it should be 3 or 4 wired connectors I'm looking for please?

 

looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like your bike should have a three wire switch.

CN

 

Brill, thought so cheers dude. One more thing to add to my shopping cart on eBay lol.

 

Hi guys, back with another question, I ordered 4 of these carb repair kits i ordered these ones because they seem to be the most complete at the same price as all the other I had seen. I have now received a mail from the vendor advising that the best they can do is 2 of those and 2 of these type surely with the carbs being so precise I should have the same kits on each one?

 

I think that the only difference is that the other carb set doesn't have a drain plug o ring and the cap that goes over the air fuel screw.



One thing I found out is some of the aftermarket sets have different size o rings. One came broken. So I still had to place a order with chacal.