My rebuild post

I suppose the cap over the air/fuel screw is not so important, but surely I should be replacing all the o-rings? Should I look to source that else-where? It's difficult for me to use Chacal due to shipping costs & times, since I'm in the UK

 

You should replace ALL o rings. Throttle shaft seals and fuel supply o rings too!!! I hate waiting for anything I order online. But it's even worse when something comes in and it really doesn't fit or work.

Im sure someone else in the uk has bought a carb rebuild kit and it has worked for them. Maybe post something asking specifically about carb rebuild kits in the uk???

And I'm not saying that the one that you ordered won't work but...

 

Yeah that's why I ordered 4 identical kits from the same place so I know they're the same, read on here somewhere that someone had replaced 1 or 2 float needles and found they were longer than the ones already in so had to change all 4 in the end. I'll email the guy now and say I want 4 identical kits. I'm pretty sure I can source the other o-rings, going to take the carbs to my old auto-college and get them to clean & rebuild, they have 1000's of boxes of o-rings there, I'm sure they wont begrudge me a few

 

Thought I'd give you an update. Carb kits have arrived and are all identical, with all O-rings and caps, so that's good. Also spotted and acted fast to get these, dead cheap they're second hand s will drop them into boiling water for a few second to clean and rejuvenate the rubber (read here somewhere, that's a trick that works well) another tip I read and will do was to wrap them in bicycle inner tube rubber.

 

I see you have a dog. I'm curious, does it bark with an English accent?

(There's one in every crowd and it's usually me.)

 

Add a few drops of oil of wintergreen to the water. It helps restore suppleness (for a while).

 

NO NO NO. The ones you drop in boiling water are the carb-to-airbox boots.

The carb-to-head boots are a metal/rubber composite piece; boiling is NOT recommended. (It was me that recommended boiling the airbox boots.)

Since they're not new, be sure they don't have any cracks in them, at least not any that go all the way through. Flex the manifolds from the inside to check the severity of any cracks that may be present. Flush the cracks out really well with a nice "hot" solvent (like lacquer thinner) then pack with high-temp adhesive RTV. No need for the inner tube rubber unless they're horribly cracked.

Be sure to use new, proper gaskets between the manifolds and the head, and use NEW screws with anti-sieze compound.

 

Ahh ok. Cheers Fitz, saved me a a load of ball ache there by the sounds of it. Yeah I will be scrutinising them to make sure they're sound, but I have bought from this seller before and he seems pretty good. Gaskets I can pick up for around £10 so all in all, providing these manifolds are good, it's saved me about £35, which will pay for my new handlebars. Screws are easy to source, there's plenty places that sell the stainless version around my area. I was very gentle removing them, heard some horror stories about that!

Bmarz, no she actually barks with a Welsh accent

 

See, didn't I say it would quick once we had a bit of dry weather? Got my father over today and got this far:

 

Spotted and bought this little bargain last night and because I ordered a new ignition and headlight barrel off the same chap, he refunded me £8 postage. The side panel was a last minute addition to the order so only really cost a pretty great £10. I believe that's refered to as 'win' and 'awesome' \o/

 

Hey guys, been a little while. I have been on the boards but not had much to say or help to ask for. Until now lol. I need to replace the brake caliper but can't find a decent replacement. Is there another caliper that will fit without any fettling? Like from a 650 for example. I have looked different model's caliper's but they all seem to be different design's and I'm a bit weary of buying one and finding it's no good. Thanks.

 

The brake caliper for the 550 Maxim is the same as the LH caliper from an '81 ~ '83 Seca 750 or a 1982 XV920J (Virago.)

 

That's great news the Virago one will probably be easier to come by. As an aside, it was a Virago that I had before the the Max.

Thanks alot Fitz

 

Ok, so this one should work then?

 

Hey guys. Work has well and truly stopped for now. Got the engine mounted and was going great until the engine seized. Was fine until quite recently. I've managed to pull the head and the barrels & pistons are f***ed. Like proper f***ed so I'm thinking about a new engine. Spent to much on it to back out now. Will any of the chain drive XJ engines fit or should I stick to a 550 due to carbs etc. Any advice much appreciated.

 

The only other chain drive XJ engine was the 400 and no, it won't work without some serious frame modification. You have to source another 550 engine.
Out of curiosity, what caused the engine seizure?

 

Thought that was the case. Appears to be water ingress. When pulled the head the barrels were full of water. Which was in there from before got the bike. I've always stored the Burke & engine in doors. I'll post some pics when I'm not so angry and can deal with that shit lol

 

I think I recall a member putting an engine from a FJ600 in his 550. It involved either keeping the Fj carbs or using the Fj jets in Xj's carb. Its another option that's out there for you if you care to search for it.

 

Brilliant thanks Matti I'll look into that as well. Found a 550 engine that was running before being taken out if the frame apparently. Put an offer in on it. Just waiting now.

 

Progress update. New engine arrived, was seized on arrival. Got a full refund, but can't seem to unseize it. Been pouring Duck Oil, petrol & Redex mixture in hope to free it up but it's been months and still no movement. Any suggestions?