New to forum and carb questions

Valve clearances were all in spec

 

Ok all here is the latest update. I went through everything wiring realated including the pickup wires and tci wires they all looked good. I decided to check again for vacuum leaks and sprayed everything with starting fluid. I found the idle increased as I sprayed 1 and 2 carb boots to head. I could also see bubbling of the starting fluid after I sprayed it. I am thinking I may have found the issue. I am going to order new boots. Ill post reply once I get them installed.

 

be careful with those carb boot bolts, sometimes the come right out sometimes they twist right off
if it doesn't feel right, quit

 

Great news everyone! After replacing the carb to head boots and voltage regulator I had the exact same problem. Idle hang and no power past 5500. Out of frustration I went over everything again including the recent carb rebuild parts installed. Drum roll please!... found the main jet needles were wrong! The kit I ordered had y262 needles and I never suspected them to be the fault because it was a kit and new ( not chacals ) Apparently these needles fit 275 engines or smaller, crazy. Anyway I swapped in the originals and low and behold all problems solved! Runs all the way out and wow fast and fun. Back story is I didnt even start or run the bike when I bought it. I went to work right away rebuilding the carbs and getting the bike back in order. For anyone having issues like this check your JET needles, aftermarket companies get it wrong sometimes. Thanks all for helping.

 

that's not a part changed to often unless you see damage to them. not even in church.

 

The only reason I did change them is because they were setup for a 750 and they are 750 needle jets. The kit had all the correct 65o parts except apparently these needles. I assumed they were the y-10's but couldn't see they were y262 until I closely looked at them today. I never suspected. But looking further into it the 262 crosses over to a 10. They may have been inferior to oem but either way I am thrilled. Way to many hours spent figuring this one out.

 

Thanks for putting the time into communicating this one all the way to the fix that finally solved the problem - its what makes a good forum great.
I've just taken the carbs off my XJ750 AGAIN trying to resolve a similar behaviour - guess where I'm going to look first! Thanks again

 

I didn't suspect the needles at all since they came in a new kit. They were supposedly the correct needles and everything else matched the 650 configuration. In the mean time I replaced a bunch of other stuff and while beneficial were not the problem. The needles were the only thing that made since after some serious brainstorming. Didnt even have to pull the carbs. Hats off, needles swapped to the Y-13 and boom ran perfect. I chased this issue for many hours, weeks even because it was driving me crazy. I cannot believe how much this bike pulls. It blows away my cx500.

 

Carbs are tricky to get right - especially if you're not dealing with a 'standard' set-up, but your description sounded like a classic main jet issue. I had the same when, due to (my)poor reassembly, a main dropped off into the float bowl. Stone dead at 50% throttle. The needle bit was hard detective work I'll admit. Glad it's now sorted.

 

However, in rebuild many many racks, I have found many many that are wrong

 

and it will be on my list of things to check from now on.

 

Hello again all, back with more questions. Bike runs beautifully but I am having starting issues and have the same issue since I got the bike. Starts great cold fires right up. However as soon as the engine is warm and I stop for more than a few minutes to get gas or whatever on restart the starter turns very slowly and sometimes clicks. If I press the start button a few times sometimes it will kick over but this issue is not filling me with confidence if I have to go somewhere and stop. I have replaced the battery, voltage regulator, cleaned the generator copper, brushes are good. Voltage output is in spec. Opened the starter and cleaned up the carbon and armature. Brushes were in spec. Yesterday it left me stranded at a stop light. It was not a fun push on a left turn with cars behind me. Luckily I was near a shopping mall. Looked at everything and starter was completely locked up. The relay just clicked even when I had the battery hooked up to my truck. Luckily I was able to push start it and when I got back home lo and behold the starter worked again. Is this a starter clutch issue? Weak starter? Power connection to relay is clean along with all grounds. Any advice would be great thanks again everyone!

 

i don't care if the battery is new..... sounds like a bad battery. Do some voltage-drop tests at different temperatures

 

Alright all so after a starter rebuild it now starts great. I ended up getting stranded and it refused to start. I managed to limp it home but it made me check the starter. Brushes were worn down all the way. Good now. My new problem is the front brakes are hanging on the rotors. When I put the bike in the air I am only able to move the tire half a rotation and it stops dead. I can hear the pads rubbing. Its also causing me to give additional throttle to get it moving along with clutch work. I can also feel it drag when I go around corners. Its a safety issue. When I remove them the wheel turns many times without sound. I have already rebuilt both calipers including the seals and I also polished the pistons. I also replaced the brake lines and the master cylinder with new parts. I also bored out the brake pad hole on top of the pad a bit but nothing seems to work. I verified there isnt air in the system either. Any suggestions? I have also had the speedometer cable break twice. The original cable was old so I bought a new one. The new one snapped after 3 miles! Its breaking at the driven gear on the wheel.