no start 1986

http://maxim-x.com/specifications.html
this the actual address, it seems that a gentlemen from Canada bought a very run down xj750 and then proceeded to rebuild it. By doing this he made this website and gathered up a ton of information and specs for the bike.
during the rebuild he made notes and pictures to help other XJ'ers work on there bikes.

 

Yes. The X (and the airheads) came in two displacements because of U.S. Tarrifs. Extra charge to import anything over 700cc in the U.S., so everyone else got a 750. All specs, aside from displacement, are identical.

 

Good to hear. I have family in the area, but haven't been out since moving away from paradise.

 

I was just going over the chacal vendor site, and am pleasantly pleased with his supplies. Not sure if I mentioned prior but number two cylinder is starting to get egg shaped so now I am thinking of replacing the jug and having the head and valves gone through. Yes, money is the issue so I am thinking of doing as much as I can before going to a shop- here it averages 90-110 an hour YIKES.

 

If you need to search for used parts at any point, keep in mind that it's basically an FZ700 top end (different cam though).

 

thank you for the information

 

Is it simply a de-stroked version of the 750? If so, has anyone ever made a kit to bring it back in line with the rest of the world? I am aware of the big bore kit for the 750s, but it seems like a big hassle...

 

much better web site the other link was to maxim magazine

 

1. Yes.
2. Yamaha (as in buy the longer rods from a Canadian dealer (when they were still available)).

A full engine teardown to maybe gain 1/10 of a second in the 1/4....I doubt many people ever bothered.

 

My understanding is the only difference is the crank/connecting rods/ and the size of the pistons.

 

Bore size is the same.

 

OK pulled coils again-
let them sit atop the fire mantel for a bit so that they were warm.
Primary resistance 1&4 supposed to be 2.7 actual reading 3.2 ohms Primary resistance + .10% = 2.97 OHMS.
Primary resistance 2 & 3 supposed to be 2.7 ohms. actual 3.1 ohms + or - .10% this equals .27
So the primary resistance of the coils checked with a FLUKE multi-meter are close but still out of acceptable range.
Even so I would think the bike would still run?

Secondary resistance supposed to be 12 + or - .20% this equals 2.4
coil 1 & 4 actual 13.36 20K adding the 2.4 would be 14.4 ohms
coil 2 & 3 actual 11.90 20K subtracting the 2.4 would be 9.6 ohms.
Both secondary resistance are with in specifications.

Checked the valve clearance on the number one cylinder
exhaust-.13 supposed to be .23mm
still looking for narrower feelers this is the only valves I can reach at this time.

 

Great just got a dvd manual and the first thing I notice that is missing on my xj700 is a freakin stationary pointer located with in the tci housing. Go figure
And yes when I get the funds I am going to buy a book manual from the xj vendor.
Anyway does anybody know if there is supposed to be a pointer or is it for another xj700?
Mine is water cooled
and the engine number is 1NW001742

 

Maxim-X 700 & 750 pistons are different. Externally the motors I believe are the same, the 700 has taller pistons to reach the top of the combustion chamber, also heavier which is why the red line is 1k lower on the 700. I'm not sure what differences there maybe with the connecting rods.

 

Water cooled x is a completely different animal... make sure you have the correct manual. Perhaps you can post pictures so we can see what you've got...

 

the pointer would not keep the bike from running
have you ohmed out the pickup coils? you do this from the connector

.this diagram of an 86 700x shows no pointer. marks are likely on the case for timing and cam chain alinement

trimmed back the spark plug wires at the caps .
have you ohmed out the spark plug caps?

 

I took apart the plug wires and detailed the spring, little button and small cylinder inside wires.
reassembled. But no I did not trim the ends. I tested the 2ndary resistance through both wires and readings are within specs.
1 &4 coil 2nd was 13.36
2 &3 coil was 11.90 ohms
Where would I find the connector for the pick up coils?
I also checked the spark plugs and two were good two were bad so I changed all four double checked their gap and installed.
If you have the time check youtube
541maxim is where I post videos of my bike.

 

TCI- checked at the plug
Blk/Gray 108.4
Blk/Org 111.1 ohms
range for test is 120Ohms + or - 10% this if my math is correct is 12 so either 118 or 132 ohms.

ENGINE NUMBER = 1NW001742

 

Todays adventures- included basically tested everything again just to make sure.
Coils
plugs/ replaced new
TCI checked at plug with in range
re assembled blue spark at plugs
removed carbs- just to see
valves that are visible intake from carb ports all moving
sprayed ether just to see if it would start to run at all NO!
My guess is that there is something inside not working IE valves may not be closing all the way or sucked a valve
or broken piston ring or rings
looks like as soon as I get feeler gauges that fit will go through and measure all valves.
then start the removal of the cams
and go from there.
Fun times
On a lighter note at least I will know how this engine comes apart and goes back together. Properly besides it winter gives me something to do in the garage.

 

well onto the carbs for poops and giggles-
removed drained all four bowls
3,4 were the same amount of fuel
1 was a bit lower then 3 , 4
2 was like 1/4 inch higher then the rest.
I am using baby food jars all the same size for a rough comparison
I have upload a few picks one of the fuel amounts and the other of the carb bowls that to me seem not right. Meaning you would think that the drain screws would be facing outward-like one and two facing the same way if you look closely you can see that they are mixed up.
or maybe that's the 2way they are supposed to be.

 

Someone put the float bowls on wrong, which leads one to surmise that the carbs were apart and other things were done incorrectly, which leads one to surmise that is where the solution to your no-start condition will be found.

 

I had the carbs rebuilt two years ago.
As I mentioned before the bike was running fine then 2 or 3 weeks no riding, tried to go riding and no start.
I would of liked it to be coils or plug wires but alas they are with in specs.

 

just got done

going through carbs everything seems to be alright all the jets had the same numbers
floats measured the same height.

 

here's another question-when looking inside where the butter flies are I noticed a black residue. Could this be from the valves not closing all the way ?

 

OK. That clears that up then. Any mistake is always a tlltale that theree could be some other related issue. I even re-check my own work when I find a small mistake that I've made.

 

There is quit a bit of valve overlap, so finding small amounts of carbon in the carb throat is normal.

I'm going to go do some thinking.

 

I thought. You said that #2 carb had more fuel in it.
Check the fuel levels as outlined here: Setting the fuel levels
Measured float height is not quite as accurate as measuing fuel level.

Might not be a cause, but could be a contrubutor.

Off to think some more.

 

Looking at the baby food jars, there is certainly a fuel level problem. Add the mixed up orientation of the carb bowls and me thinks re-checking the re-build of the carbs is valid. If everything wasn't Church clean and an in-line filter isn't being used.

I know nothing about an XJ700 but throwing the following out there to see if anything sticks:

At least reset the float heights so your fuel levels are in-spec.
Verify that your valve clearances are in spec.
When you say 'all the jets had the same numbers', what are you saying exactly? Every jet has the same number OR every jet in similar locations in all 4 carbs has the same number?
What jet sizes should be in an XJ700?

 

draining carbs into the jars is not going to tell you anything the first carb you drain is going to call for the extra fuel in carbs in the area above the needle valves

 

Years & Models: 1986 XJ700-X XS/XSNC water-cooled USA models
Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni
Carb Series: BS33
Carb Model ID: 1NW00 (XS models) or 1LT00 (XSC models)
Main FUEL Jet Size: #105
Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #35
Main AIR Jet Size: #120 (non-removable, in carb throat)
Pilot AIR Jet Size: #140
AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used
Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl)
Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ82
Main needle JET Size: #Y-2 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube").
Fuel Level in float bowls: 3.0mm +/- 1mm (.118" +/- .039")
Idle RPM's: 1,050 rpms

 

I have been looking on the maxim x website and it refers to the float bowl level as being 17mm +/- 1mm
measure from where the bowl seats to the curve on the float?

 

just got feeler gauges that fit inside or under the cam caps.
Cylinder 1 Ex. .13,.13 mm
Cylinder 1 Int. .03 doesn't fit on any of the three valves
C-2 Exh. .13, .15
c-2 Int. .13, .03 didn't fit, .06
c-3 Exh. .15, .15
c-3 Int. nothing fit smallest feeler gauge is a .03mm
c-4 Exh. .13, .13
c-4 Int .03 didn't fit on any of the intake valves.
Not looking good right now any suggestions about the no gap on intakes ?
Should I proceed with removing the cam caps even though I do not know what size the gap is in between the cam lobes and the valve buckets?
I do not know how to compensate for the zero valve clearance on the intake valves.
Or is the valves and head in need of a complete overhaul. Just thinking allowed.

 

That sounds like a dry set measurement, done with the carbs upside down, it CAN get you very close but you must have the wet set level of 3mm for proper running.
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

 

Really hard to wet set the carbs when you can't access the float bowl drain screw. Therefore, the carbs were never properly adjusted after the rebuild.

 

wet set fuel height
Mikuni BS33 (all 700-X and 750-X watercooled): -Fuel level measured via the clear-tube gauge:3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

if you were to set the fuel level 17 mm below the lip you would have a lot of trouble

the 17 mm is likely the dry set float height with carb turned upside down

read the link you have been provided by 2 of our members
Setting the fuel levels

http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

3mm +/- 1mm (.12 +/- .04 inches)

my posted info source
http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/carb-specs

 

you remove the shim and put a thinner one in so you can get a base reading

 

Ok thanks for the diagram

 

Good morning, Any ideas to how to remove the cam shafts?
I verified tdc on compression stroke
removed cam caps by the book - opposing ends vice versa
know I do not have enough slack in cam chain to remove cams.
What am I missing in order of operations?
should I of left the caps on snug to remove the cam chain?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

We'll hopefully I don't have to break the chain to get it off. However if so, so be it.
sure seems Like I am getting into a lot of work however at least it will be good learning experience.

 

The cam sprockets unbolt from the cams. Put the caps back on before you try to break the bolts free, and match-mark the sprockets to the cams. Also remove the cam-chain tensioner.

 

Also get a copy of the service manual so you don't have to wait for an answer.

 

i put the caps back on snug them down lightly. So I just mark the cam sprockets for later reassembly purposes and the cams come off.
I am waiting for the service manual right now.

 

Yes indeed the manual is going to be a must have for this winter adventure project. Thanks again

 

so this is what I've got for shims

 

19 out of 20 shim replacement.
remember that the o.o clearence replacement shims are only guesses on your chart. you will need to remeasure when you change them out.

 

Yes indeed, at least I got a starting point now where to get the replacement shims without breaking the bank. lol

 

Right here------Len at xj4ever

Info@xj4ever.com

 

On the plus side, you won't be changing that many shims at once ever again (on that X at least).

 

Yes indeed due to the lack of maintenance from the previous owner I am getting to know this bike inside and out.
My wife keeps asking how much am I going to put into this bike and my response is it is a better bike then most of the news ones! She just needs some TLC

 

Here we go I got the cylinder and valve train off the bike. Am waiting for a valve compressor to get down to the barest min. before I GIVE IT A GOOD looking.
However I was taking the flippin c-clip out of the piston and the damn thing went twang and am unable to find it!!!! I did have the other cylinders' covered yet with my luck it probably fell into the crank/block.
Geez what a way to start the valve and jug rebuild-I wasn't looking to do the whole darn engine.
Either way I've got three months till riding season so Blank it time to do the complete tear down.
got some pictures I will post.
Oh I am so lucky- I removed the remainder of the pistons and drained the oil prior to the tear down but when I removed the number one piston I could just barely see the clip. Thanks to the genius who invented the magnet on a stick. SO Happy.
I've taken a couple more photos of the pistons and for some rason 3 and 4 piston both have residue on the side top portion/ lets try that again not the top there was plenty of carbon there I am referring to the side/edge just below the top of the piston. Only on the side closet to the front tire. ?
Also I noticed the connecting rods on three and four both had rust color inside the pin?
Just an update of the journey.