no start 1986

Here is a picture of the pistons that I was referring to in prior post.

 

I'm at my lunch and have a quick and important note. You CANNOT reuse the piston pin clips. They will no longer have the correct tension to stay in place, and you must fit new ones or risk damage to the cylinder wall.

I'm curious as to why you are tearing a low mileage engine down so far.

 

Well I got the valve spring compressor and started to remove all the valves and low and behold I've found two and a possible third that are bent! Plus two exhaust valve guides that have broken off on the number two cylinder.

 

Good reason for a teardown.

 

Received most of the parts now. Got a new head assembly yesterday and for the of 69.00 I was pleasantly surprised. Came with everything but the cams minus five or six shims. No biggie I have others to replace them with. I almost felt guilty when I was taking it apart mainly due to how clean and seemingly lightly used. All the valves looked great . including the valve seats. They all had that nice and shiny contact area that I measured just for poops and giggles to verify they were in specifications When I looked at the water jackets there wasn't any residue inside. As with my original one there was rust colored deposits through out. Just waiting for the lower O-rings that go between the block and jug assembly. Wouldn't want to ruin everything over 12.00 worth of O-rings. Went to the local college to use there parts washer which is heated and cleaned up all the parts and then dried and cleaned. Going to take the head and jugs to machine shop tomorrow to verify that there is no distortion of the mating surfaces. Also going to have the jugs honed while the parts are there. I do have a question concerning the very thin aluminum gasket that goes between the upper and lower valve assembly. The original one has the word UP yet the replacement does not. One side of the new gasket has a raised edge around the entire gasket, any ideas to which side goes up?

 

Ok forget the last question the word up was behind a large labeling sticker-Duh
I opened the end of the packing material and there it was looking tight at me. One has to be able to laugh at ones' self if not your probably a stressed out jerk. LOL

 

Been there… Done that

 

Here is what I have found when I rechecked the upper half of carbs. This indent runs right flush with the rubber (baby bumpers) LOL could be a minor thing could be a major thing. Any suggestions as what to do for a repair?
I was thinking of some epoxy just a smidge on the outside to fill the divot ?

 

It always makes life much less chaotic if you post in one thread. Deja vu stuff rattles my brain.

I wouldn't mess with the divot unless it actually impares the profile of the 'slot' that the diaphragm lip fits into. From the picture it looks like it is outside of the 'fit' area.

 

That little notch will not be an issue because the top sandwiches the diaphragm in that groove. However, that notch should not be there so if it were me I would carefully fill, level, and smooth that notch with JB Weld or some other similar metal-filled epoxy. That particular spot is not in a gas environment so no need to worry about fuel compatibility there. .

 

That's what I have done-used some JB aluminum weld, placed a bit of pliable plastic to keep the shape and to keep the material on the outside of the carb. Letting it harden up before I proceed with the wet set of the carbs. Probably tonight when I get home form work. Weather here supposed to be in the mid 60's F all week.

 

You're sounding like one of us already!!

 

thanks for the comment glad to be able to fit in this wonderful crowd !

 

How do you feel about bacon?

 

Is there any other type of meat that goes well with everything?

 

MORE Bacon

 

@MattiThundrrr to the white "courtesy" telephone.

 

Courtesy is not in my dictionary.
The other meat that goes well with everything is...

 

Breakfast sausage and bacon on the menu this morning and daylight saving time for a bonus. I'll post a pic of it when I finish making it

 

Yummm bacon and eggs and toast and sausage and hash browns. My Sunday special wife loves it when I do breakfast

 

You have a Sunday special wife? One for each day of the week perhaps?

Might have to change your name to Toomanywives............

 

Rofl, should take a look at punctuation in my statements
Sunday special, wife loves it
If that were true I wouldn't be on this site or have any time for motorcycles

 

Needs catsup.

 

His wife is fine without ketchup.

 

Umm..... I think you got some 'splanin' to do.

 

Maybe a little chocolate sauce

 

Oops.....

 

This one went REALLY far slideways!

 

Alright lets play a game of knowledge-
Which I have just enough to Freak things up-
When replacing the cams do you use the timing marks on the timing gears themselves i.e. that little divot next to the bolt hole that in the manual says do not use for a bolt or
do you use that little dot on the cam itself?
Also- when ordering the new shims if it says you need to use a .176 as the max would you order the .175? I am curious cause I am thinking that I would order the .175 as it would be longer before I would need to adjust said shim.
Compared to if I ordered a .170 which would put the adjustment in the middle of the specifications.
Hopefully this makes sense-
Again thank you for your time and knowledge.

 

I have had to buy a few specialty tools for my bike, heck all I need know is a manometer, tire changer, wheel bearing remover and a motorcycle lift and I should never have to go to a shop again unless I need machine work done.

 

No... you use the shim that the chart says to use. In spec is in spec... it doesn't matter if you're on the fat side or thin side.

Think of football. It doesn't matter where the ball goes through the uprights... inside is inside.

Basketball-- a "swish-nothing but net" is just as good as a "toilet bowl swirlie"

Etc....

 

Thanks-

 

You don't need a lift. Centerstand, tiedown strap, and a 30 pound bag of sand. You can only have one hweel off at a time, but it's far cheaper than a lift, and you can't use a lift without removing the exhaust.

 

point taken spend my money on more important things like new coils !

 

help?
cam timing marks ?

 

it will be 26k miles before you have to do it again acording to spec on checking

 

Yes, thank fully lol
Yet I am still at a lose for identifying the cam timing marks, though?

 

this link explains it

http://www.xjcd.org/node/1179

onlin manuals for the 700 XS and 700 XN
http://www.xjcd.org/Service_Manuals

 

That is exactly what I needed thank you vey much sir.

 

As I finally got my bike back together and running I will do a run down of what I have done over the last two & 1/2 months-
After finding that I had 3 valves two exhaust and 1 intake with valves and valve guides bent and broken. I ordered a new to me cylinder head only missing cams.
Went through newly acquired cylinder head-
Utilized small hole gauge and micrometer to check the valve guides and valve stems were within specs.
cleaned re surfaced- lapped all valves-verified all valves were sealed-new valve seals
bench checked valve clearances- needed 19 out of 20 replacement shims for proper valve adjustment.
Re-checked valve clearances after engine re-assembly- All with in specs and closer to the max allowed limit so I will get the most mileage out of the adjustment before doing it again. LOL
New to me Piston Jug due to original #3 being out of round. re-surfaced jug and had cylinders honed.
complete gasket set
rebuilt carbs through "house of clean documentation".
replaced float valves and seats in carbs.
new piston cir clips and piston rings.
Pistons, jug and valve assembly were thoroughly cleaned prior to reassembly. To remove all carbon deposits that I could.
Utilized a thread runner to clean all threads throughout engine.
painted all components with high temp engine paint. 3x's and covered with clear coat 3x's
polished the majority of aluminum components for the bling effect.

In retro spec. having to wait for 2 months for my wrist pins was a good thing. This allowed me to do all the small detail work that I probably would have not done and that is the absolute truth!
I am sure that I may have missed a couple of things however I am pleased with the outcome of my work.

Dowski68

 

I now have put close to 2,000 miles on the rebuild. Everything seems to be working just fine.
recently replaced the rear brake shoes. No real issues there other then the ones I replaced were cracked severely.
Moved on to the front brakes and realized that one side was not working at all.
Tore the calipers down replaced the rubbers and cleaned the pistons with tin foil. Came out really clean I do have to say.
Ordered a replacement kit for the master cylinder should be here Tuesday.
This is just what I do check, verify and fix if needed.
This is my hobby/fun time/relaxing/

I never thought having my own thread I guess this is mine-