Orange n Black's 700

The spark plugs that I'm using now are #8's, so would it be ok to use #9's in the #2 and 3 cylinders. Copper fittings are easier to come by than brass so I may have to use the copper ones instead regardless of the ethanol/copper problems. Or I'll make something out of steel pipe at work. :wink:

 

Maybe I'll hi-jack Zookie's design, but have 2 separate pieces. :twisted:

 

Orange check out this web page for heat range #
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/s ... berkey.pdf

 

Well I installed side covers over the sides of the pods to deflect the forced air from the side. I used the chrome airbox covers, worked out well. Got the idea that this would help from Shooter's post on an earlier page.
Then following Waldo's advise, I installed #7 spark plugs on cylinders 2 & 3. If it ever quits raining and spawning tornadoes around here :roll: , I'll take it out for a ride and recheck the plugs.

 

Went for a ride Friday afternoon, still popping on the left side but not as much. Smoked a Harley, then headed home. Plug check is as follows, #4-tan,#3-tan, #2-slightly tan and #1-somewhere between white and tan. I believe that I can adjust for this without further mods. :twisted:

 

Finished....for now. :lol: I got the carbs adjusted and it runs great. Mpg is 40 so far and there's no problems with the cpvc intakes or glue.
Next years plans: professional paint job, springer front end and new rear shocks. :wink:
Meanwhile I'm going to enjoy myself riding the tires off!

 

How is the power of the dual carb setup compared to the stockers? I'm thinking about doing the same mod, but if I'm better off rebuilding mine I'm perfectly comfortable doing that.

 

There is plenty of power to spare, it has really surprised me. The only problem I ran into was more fuel/air mixture seems to gravitate to the center cylinders, so a plenium inside the intakes would surely work better. The real advantage with these carbs is the simplicity of it all. Easy to adjust, easy to sync, easy to clean and I only have to work with 2 carbs instead of 4. Sometimes less is more. :wink:

 

just a thought,but if u r getting more fuel to the centre cyls,would it b possible to have a straighter run to the outside carbs? i dunno if it is possible to run the carbs further apart,but what i was thinking is if they wer placed behind or slightly off centre from pots 1 and 4 with an angled piece leading off to pots 2 and 3.may not be viable because of the throttle linkage,but if it were poss,maybe the strater run to the outer cyls would compensate.

 

Your probably right, I'll give that a try next. Thanks for your input.

 

I'm back, with bad news unfortunately. After 3 months a problem developed with the intakes. After 40 miles the bike would start running like crap because of too much air from the rubber intake boots being loose. I thought that they were coming loose because of vibration and the smooth surface of the cpvc pipe not allowing the lip inside of the boots to lock on to the pipes.
After taking everything apart I discovered that the ends of the cpvc pipes had become soft and distorted. So what has been happening is after 40 miles exposure to heat and fuel, the pipes become soft allowing air to be sucked in around the pipes at the boots. :x
Conclusion: cpvc or pvc will not make suitable intakes, but I have learned a few things along the way. :roll:
Next I'll be redoing the intake design with metal instead or maybe I should keep things the same and just add a viagra pill to every tank of gas. :lol:

 

I won't say I told you so...page 6

 

Thanks. But I learned that even if the rails are the same lenght and the carb rail is dead center, doesn,t mean you'll get equal mix to both cylinders. My next attempt will direct more towards the outer cylinders. I'm going to use mild steel handrail pipe from work, after all its free.

 

Use copper pipe and group cylinders 1 and 4 on the same carb and 2& 3 together on the other. that way you would have the intake pulses 360 degrees out rather than the uneven pulses with your current setup.
It would be like a dual plane intake for a v-8 engine. you could also make a flap that opens at a certain rpm to boost the top end.
Longer intake runners boost low end torque.
Intake length is about 10 times as important as exhaust length for best performance.

Call me @ work and we can discuss it further.
330-630-0240 ask for Tom

 

Sorry I haven't responded for a while, having problems getting emails. The reason I paired 1n2/ 3n4 is because of the simplicity, lack of space, and I would most likely need bigger carbs if I went the other route.
The bike performed very well except for the fuel moving toward the center cylinders. I'm in the process of making new intakes now with the carbs attached closer to the outside cylinders to even out the distribution (hopefully). If this doesn't work I may go with fuel injection or fill it with bullets. :lol:

 

I got my new intakes made and installed. Next comes the testing and adjustments. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Here's a pic of the new intakes, they are made from 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/8 square tubing, 1-1/2 x 1/8 round tubing and 3/16 for the flange. Note that the carb mount is off center to send more fuel mix to the outside cylinders.

 

hope it works this time good luck

 

oh boy, are those steel?

 

Yes they are mild steel, but since the material is 1/8 thick, they're not heavy.
I'll have to come up with something for air filters since I only have 1-1/2 to 2 inches between the carbs and the frame. I'm thinking about the pancake filters people used to put on Triumphs.

 

So what are your plans for your old sissy bar?
You can PM me if you want to sell it...