Petcock Leaking in ON Position

So whats up with the dual petcocks???? I have never seen two on one side of the tank like that.

 

SL....you need a rebuild kit, and badly! And that o-ring looks to be about twice the size that it's supposed to be! ALSO, be sure to check the bevelled "seat" in the petcock body where that o-ring is supposed to seal against....ANY imperfection, flaw, gouge, scratch, build-up, etc. will cause a slow but sure drip-drip-drip......Japanese Gasoline Torture.

Besides rebuilding your petcock, you can replace it with a brand new original style "automatic" vacuum operated petcock, or I do also offer a manual (no vacuum operation) fuel Valve that is either ON or OFF. Some people prefer that style. Makes you feel like a real biker......

Finally, that opening in the tank that is closed off is actually where the fuel level sending unit (for the dash gauge) goes...........got those in stock, too.....

 

Well, those gaskets are pretty torn up. That O-ring does fit where I indicated right? So which rebuild kit would I need? Two gaskets for that plastic spacer, and that O ring is really all I need currently. I'd LOVE to get an automatic petcock, but my wallet always gets a little sadder every time I come on this site or whenever I walk into a cycle shop I'd love to just get her operational and fine tuned before I work on any "convienences" like automatic petcocks and new handle grips ect ect. You guys know
But on another note, not sure exactly why that other petcock opening is closed off. Its just weird. So how does the Fuel Level Sending Unit work? Do I need to install wires to my dash or something of the sort? And the other Q, how much??
Thanks guys! Xjbikes is the best site I've ever added to my favorites
-SLKid

 

SLK----the factory petcock (like the one on your bike!) IS an "automatic" petcock....it turns itself on and off automatically, responding to the presence or abscence of a vacuum signal from the engine: Vacuum present = petcock ON. Vacuum absent = petcock OFF. The only "manual" activity associated with the factory petcocks is turning it to REServe when you run low on fuel, and that requirement is there merely to serve as a "don't forget you're about to run out of gas" reminder.....

Manual FUEL VALVES require you to turn the petcock ON manually, or to turn it OFF manually, via moving the lever. Leaving the petcock ON is like leaving the factory petcock in the PRime position, meaning fuel flows all the time (vacuum signal or not). Or when a factory petcock malfunctions.....then, in effect, it is on PRime all the time.

That other opening is not for another petcock! It's where the fuel level sending unit goes, and the sending unit has a wire harness coming off of it that plugs into a matching connector coming off the main harness (a single green and a single black wire). Plug the sender harness into the main harness connector, and poof!, you might have a functioning fuel gauge............

How much? If you have to ask........

Just kidding. Reasonably priced. Affordable. A bargain at twice the price. Drop me a PM or an e-mail for all the gory details.....

 

Oh cool! Thanks Chacal! Yes, it indeed has a couple wires that are cut off right before the sealant engulfs the rest of the Unit. And under the seat there is indeed a harness with a black and green wire that isnt connected to anything! I've often wondered what that was for! Thats awesome! I litterally learn something new every single day here!

 

Chacal!

You're diaphram repair kit worked. No more leak. So my carbs are primed and I was all ready to start her. Tried... and new problems..
Thanks guys for the help!

-SLKid

 

One down, hopefully only one problem left to solve!

 

Solved! I bypassed the starter solenoid and it clicked. Gonna clean the starter and see if that doesnt do the trick first. Then check my wiring. Any way. She lives!
-SLkid