please help before i throw this bike away

You'll be far less frustrated and move closer to finding enjoyment with your bike if you quit trying to rejet for Pods and fine tune the Plant to Stock Jets with the Airbox.

There is NO known recipe proven to successfully work with Air Pods.
No Official Chart.
No Official Results of experimentation.

The only thing that exists are recommendations for what MIGHT work, ... if your lucky.
Guesses at best.

I am very happy for the few who have Pods that have somehow overcome the obstacles claiming that they are delighted with how their bike looks and performs.

Jointly, you only serve to prove how difficult and frustrating it is likely to be for the next guy who tries it.

This sites Archives are NOT overflowing with Air Pod success stories.
The bulk of material is mostly posts of those who are desperately trying some new approach to make them work.

 

Careful what you call us overqualified shadetree grease monkeys.

jkustomz: MiCarl is a member in your neck of the woods. He has a shop local to you. If you truly feel that this is beyond your abilities. Get in conatact with him.

There are a few very knowledgable guys trying to help you. Fitz dreams of finely adjusted valves, and Rick has nightmares of surgically clean carbs. Listen to what they say!

Here are the links to the info you will need.
Clean Your Own Carb's - The Whole 9 Yards - by: Rick Massey
HOW TO: Bench-synch your carbs
AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics
AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT Part 2: The Tool vs. ZipTie -w/pics

Ghost

 

It's frustrating as hell, but I just went down this road with my 82 550 and it now runs great. While you are in there check all of your jets to make sure they are correct. Make sure all of your passeges are clean, and add a inline fuel filter while you are at it incase there is any dirt in your tank, the filter will catch it before it gets to your clean carbs. There is a post somewhere on the board of how to do it. The XJCD that you can buy also has good information on it and is well worth the money spent and has the shop manual that goes into carb repair and syncing. There are several articles that go along with this info on the CD. I found it very helpful. Take the time to read these articles, get the CD set, and read it over a few times and you'll get it right. Do it right, replace anything thats needed, and hopefully you won't have to go back in for several years. Skimp and you'll have nothing but problems.

 

I'm not discussing this any further on this thread, as I said to wiz, it's off topic and not fair to the op

PM' you

 

HA! girls girls, you're both pretty!

Rick speaks the truth. resurrecting an old bike is more than most mere mortals are rated to handle. Out of the mechanically blessed minority those rated to handle getting pods to run right and sweet are rare as hen's teeth (or factory luggage, fairing, tool kit and security chain all on one bike)

 

I have all of those things, minus the key for the factory chain. I should take it to a locksmith and get one made for the sheer rarity of it.

 

The Factory Security Chain and Helmet/Seat Lock should open with the Ignition Key.

 

HAHA! What a noob! I didnt even try the main key. lol
The chain came with the parts bike I bought (as well as the factory trunk/tool kit), but I have the key for that bike, just went and tried it, and BINGO! Thanks Rick, I feel like such a boob now.

(and sorry for the thread jack once again. )

 

OK so news update I bought a complete bike for $100 with good stock carbs and air box. I cleaned the new carbs and my plan was to put my bike back to stock. No the problem is the airbox wtf did Yamaha bluish the bike around that it took 3hours to pull it off my Donner bike. And doesn't look easy to put in. So I did some reading on PVC intakes an seems like guys have gotten it right without rejeting I'm going to try this fiirst withstock carbs and pipes anyone have ideas on that. And let me also add so it clear that I did not put pods by choice the bike came half jeted and with no pipes or airfillters seemed like the easiest thing to do but liltle did I know when I put the pods it would be the biggest nightmare in the world but anyways any ides on the PVC intake withsingle pod?

 

You might check out the EFI thread...

 

Just a heads up on the PVC intakes. PVC tubing is not designed to hold up to the heat and gas it will be subjected to. This has been tried, and proven.

To reinstall the airbox you will need to undo the front engine mounts, and pivot the engine forward to give you the room needed to install the airbox.

Ghost

 

PT, if you can, try to shuffle bits around to get it all on one key again. That's the classy move. I've a friend I just want to smack some times. His latest was replacing an ignition switch but flatly refusing to take the extra five minutes to put the old lock set on the new switch.

I've only ever laid eyes on one of them factory chains twice. both on weeping piles of what most would consider parts bikes. Each was picked and pieced and had three different keys.

 

Two of my three XJs have their security chains, they're completely useless but cool to have.

On the 550, you shouldn't have to drop the motor forward, just pull the carbs and starter. However, dropping the engine forward does make it a lot easier, even though it requires dropping the exhaust system.

 

OK so. I'm done with this bike who wants it $1700 for bike and the parts bike I've done everything can't get it right so I'm done come get both of them

 

Don't give up on it, you can do it

 

Really.

Exactly what, of all the things we expained that you needed to do, did you actually accomplish?

This does involve quite a bit of effort, and PATIENCE. If you're not up for it, then maybe packing it in is the best course. Unfortunately, two non-running bikes aren't worth what you're asking. Right now you have two parts bikes.

I think you're giving up too easily.

 

The youth of today want everything handed to them on a silver platter.

 

I think I know how you feel.
You are overwhelmed and disappointed.
Sadly, we have heard this story a few times and even some that turned-out worse.
(One guy bought a sweetheart of a bike that he had ready to go. Only needed the Title. The Title never happened. Heartbreak.)

You bought-in to a bike that needs some T-L-C.
The TLC turned-out to be:
Tools.
Labor, ... and
Cash!

Not quite ready to take on a pleasant outing to enjoy the splendor of the Fall Foliage Season.
I can dig it.

Rock ~ (You) ~ Hard place.

Make a list of what it needs.
If the list is longer than you can deal with; then you sell.

 

OK I dnt want everything handed to me and I have a running bike just runs to rich. I set floats check valves cleaned carbs bought new carbs I can't figure it out my bike does run runs great starts up first time everytime it just runs rich only thing left is to step the jets down one size or two I'm gonna order new ones in a day or two try that and go from there I'm going to get 120 mains and 35 pilots I have 125 mains and 40 pilots now to rich stock jets are to lean so I think that'll be a good middle. Also I'm one turn out on the mixture screws as of now. Just still a little to rich.

 

Did the carb or carbs that were dripping gas get cleared up and did you check the float levels wet with the clear tube connected to the bowl drains?

MN

 

Set float level dry and yes that cleared up the dripping in that Carb.

 

The only problem now is to rich so I think the smaller jets will fix that.

 

Stock specs from the 550 seca service manual.
The 550 Maxim also used the Mikuni BS28 carb.
Carb Manufacture: Mikuni BS28

Main Jet #112.5
needle jet 0-8
pilot jet #35
starter jet #35 ( 0.7)
jet needle 4GZ11
Fuel Level 2mm +/- 1mm
Air jet, Main #70
Air jet, Pilot #170
Throttle Valve #130
Engine idle speed 1200 rpms

These should at least give you a ballpark starting point. You will have to adjust from these for mods such as pods, and 4-1 exhaust.

120 main, 40 pilot are stock 750 jets.

Are you sure you have the correct carbs for the bike?
Do the carbs say Mikuni on them anywhere?
Is it possible that a set of Hitatchi HS32 carbs may have been put on the bike at some time?

Ghost

 

You might be running too rich because you need to set the float levels WET

 

I have mikuni carbs my jets now are 125 and 40

 

Also I thought stock pilots were 29 not 35? So maybe I should do 120 and 37? I started with 125 and what I assume stock went to 40 on pilot and left the 125 that was in the Carb when I bought bike. So I was thinking 120 main and 35 pilot I should try but if I was wrong and 35 is stock pilot then maybe a 120 main and 37 pilot? Any ideas?

 

The first step is to confirm that the bike indeed has the correct carbs on it.
The big HS32 hitachis will give to much airflow for the bike unless it was very heavily modified for racing. This could also account for your rich condition.

Ghost

 

The carbs say mikuni. On the sides of them

 

Good, The stock jets are 112.5 main, 35 pilot. This is what you will need with the stock airbox. Did you get that installed yet?

No mention of exhaust mods. I am assuming the you are still running stock exhaust

If you are still trying to run the pods you need to follow the formula

+4 main fuel jet sizes for individual pod filters (no airbox)
- Add up all the main fuel jet size increases and subtract 2 sizes.

This will leave you at
+2 main fuel jet
or #114/#115 on the main jet

On the pilot jet
Increase the pilot fuel jet size +1 for every +3 main fuel jet size increases

I would take this back to the stock #35 jet, or a #36 jet at the max.

If the rack off the parts bike was good. You should not have to rejet it.


If you still want to get those pods working. Read the following, and understand what is said about the velocity pods.
For Pod Guys & PVC Manifold Guys ONLY !! By: Rick Massey

The biggest misunderstanding is the need to shape, and direct the airflow into the throat of the carb. Not across the front.

Ghost

 

Start here.

Then do a proper bench sync.

THEN GET THE VALVES IN SPEC.

Then you can do a vac sync. (YICS blocked.)

THEN and only then is it time to mess with mixtures.

You're still trying to shortcut the process and will continue to be thwarted until you do all the steps and in order. Dry setting floats is not accurate enough to ensure the bike won't run too rich or lean on one cylinder. It's a starting point.

 

Even if you have pods and an aftermarket exhaust those jet numbers seem way off. That's probably why you are soooooo rich.
I put Chacal's aftermarket jets into my Mikunis on my 550, they looked the same, and it runs great. No need to spend big bucks on the OEM sets.

 

Dry setting the floats gets you in the ballpark. Setting them wet is the only way to get them right.

I made a jig to hold the carbs off of the bike so I could make float level adjustments without pulling them on and off the bike several times.

Your float level beleive it or not can effect the richness with out changing jets. Float higher the richer the mixture. Remember the factory had them a little lean to meet emissions.

MN

 

OK. Ill set floats wet and going to order 116.5 and 37 jets .aftermatket pipes and PVC intake now I'm waiting on parts for airbox parts bike was missing a couple. Pieces. I haven't given up hope just yet I'm way closer with it running driving and starting so more jets.

 

So does everyone agree with this

Set floats wet
Order 116.5 , 118, and 120 mains
Order 37 pilots
Try 37 pilots with what main? Think 118 now originally thought 120

INPUT

 

Check valve clearances so you can order shims at the same time.

 

Any input on the jets I wanna try. With the stock 35 its way to lean.

 

With my 550 I went with the stock aftermarket jets plus one for the aftermarket exhaust (the main and idle, not the air jets. ( I have the original airbox, and a 4 into one Mac exhaust header.) Seems to have worked pefectly for me. Do you want these numbers????

 

Yeah what's ur number jets?

 

115 Main (HCP6927 aftermarket)
37.5 pilot (HCP6952 aftermarket) from Chacal
The 115 was right on the money for the exhaust.
The 37.5 was questionable, but adjustable. As it played out on my machine the jets were roughly 1.5 turns out adjusted, but not the same for all. I thought the 37.5 might be too rich, but I was able to turn it down, so no foul!
These worked well on my 550 Maxim, and my valves are in spec, timing chain adjusted, carbs synced.

 

So I was thinking 37 pilot now u confrim that should I go with 116 main?

 

No, these are +1 from original (both).
They worked great for me.

 

Also once I get the mixture close enough to work with a good burn on plug what kind of MPG should I get?

 

I get right around 50 depending on how hard I drive

 

Kk. I get bout 25 but I'm way rich

 

Still haven't looked at those valves yet, have ya? Even though it's step one in the process...

Just going to pretend they're not there until you burn one?

I get 52~56mpg from my 550s, and I ride the bejabbers out of them.

 

Just to update. I got my new jets.115 mains 37.5 pilots PVC intake aftermarket pipes. Runs like brand new. Nice color on plug. Nxt vacuum sync and colortune

 

Vacuum sync will be a waste of time unless those ignored valves are in spec.

 

St.Fitz Award...

 

oh, behave.

 

Fitz I think you are wasting your time with this one. He may wise up some day but I don't think so.