Please help me feel better...I think my bike sucks...

Minor note- - the broken mirror stud is left handed thread; you turn clockwise to remove it.

On a more serious note- - you could "spin the wheel" and get another bike at random, now that you know what to look for, and likely have fewer major problems, considering you just told us about a possible tranny problem to add to the list. There's lots of complete, non-running bikes that people stopped riding due to ONE problem, then you add carbs and tires and a new battery and you're ahead of where you are now.

 

These bikes can have "Gremlins"--so does life ; but when running PROPERLY , they are sweet!!!!

 

I meant to say 4-stroke 20W-50 Valvoline motorcycle oil. Yea, that's what I used.

As far as the brakes. You guys are right. I need to inspect that rear brake for real. I have read about the de-laminating issues. So if I can get in there and take a picture and show it to you guys can you tell me if it looks alright?

The front brakes, when I bolted on the new system didn't grab at first. I think it just needed to be bled. Someone told me that if I just keep using it, that it will bleed on it's own. Maybe that's what happened? All I know is that this replacement system I purchased was in awesome shape, and it's responding nicely and "feels good". Looked 100x better than the old system which some sort of epoxy plugging the sight window hole, the master cylinder lid screws were stripped out, and the brake handle itself was snapped off with about 2/3 remaining.

I found a CHEAP $3 digital multimeter at Harbor Freight that measures AC/DC voltage/amperage. That all I really need to work on this electrical nightmare?

Man I don't want to park it, I just drove it on an errand today. But, I do realize that if I don't soon I'm going to have to cos it's dying a slow death one way or another. Not to mention I certainly don't want to have an accident on it.

Thank you guys.

 

you'll probably want something that measures resistance, too.

 

Check out this page on the delaminated brake shoe thread:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=75.html
lopezfr2 and schooter both had experiences where the delamination was not found upon visual inspection, but where a slight pressure caused the friction material to crumble off. That's why members on this site recommend to replace them immediately (for under $40).

Honestly if it is running well, I personally would say go for it. Alot of what you are going to be working on is normal maintenance that any motorcycle requires (even brand spanking new ones), even if the owners don't know it and don't do it. I'd be interested to hear where you got the front brakes system (ebay I would assume). I understand that your old system was in complete disrepair, but since it is unlikely that you replaced them with "new" parts, be aware that master cylinder/calipers can be rebuilt and original brake lines were to be replaced within a few years after manufacture (so if the system "looks" new, but was original off of a well cared for bike, the lines would still be toast...if the brake lines are not original, then they could be fine).

I'll just mention to put new fluid in the front brakes if you have not already, and as far as bleeding goes, you bleed the system from high points where air collects. I believed the excepted procedure is to bleed them as best as you can, ride 100 milles, then bleed them again, as air bubbles that did not collect at the highest point in your system will collect after some riding and can be bled easily. But they will not "self bleed."

 

I don't understand how you can run that Bike on the road. Massachusetts requires damn-near everything that on the Bike to work ... doesn't do emissions, ... but does require the Bike to meet
"Community Standards" for Exhaust loudness.

That Bike sound like its got more headaches than you got Asprins for.
You sure you want to put money into a Bike that somebody else used-up all the fun it had that you need to put-back before you get to enjoy it?

The Economy being as it is right now ... it seems to me, a Bike needing considerably less done to it that you'll need to do to yours are ripe for picking on Ebay and Craigs List.

 

RickCoMatic, you are probably right. I have seen several Maxims in better shape than this one for less than I paid for this one on craigslist.

There's one RIGHT now with full touring hard saddlebags and trunk. Well it's an '82 750. It's $500. Owner says it needs new rear tire, brakes, and clutch though. I passed one up not that long ago on craigslist that was in real good shape for $600.

As far as for how it's on the road. Simple - there's no safety inspections in Arkansas. As far as I know working lights and a horn are the only requirement by law. No helmet law either. I don't even have a working horn but they don't inspect for it, I just remember reading it before getting my motorcycle endorsement. Not sure if I'm breaking any laws reguarding exhaust noise. I probably am but I haven't been pulled over yet.

I know there's a junkyard in the area that has two 80's Maxim's, one of which is fitted with a 4-into-1 exhaust. I was told this by some guy passing through my neighborhood on foot that saw my bike. I wish I could find where that place is and I could probably buy both bikes for next to nothing and take parts from them.

Sheesh I dunno. Not sure what to do really. I think I'll evaluate my clutch or possible transmission problem further and find out what I'm looking at electrically and make my decision to stay or go with fixing this machine.

Truth is I've already had a lot of fun on it problems and all. Learned a lot too. Just wasn't ready to really take in another major hobby when I got into this thing...cos I've never considered myself a gearhead.

 

Fixing a Clutch that slips costs about $180.00 when you add-in the Gasket, Oil, Clutch Kit, Jack Daniels and Bandages.
With the right Tools, a Compressor, Air Ratchet and good light, ...
you could get the job done in a day and a half.
Skip the Jack Daniels and your down to around three or four hours.

Now, that problem with the Tranny jumping out of 1st Gear!!!
With all the right tools and considering the complications along every step of the way ... Seized nuts, bolts, breaking clamps, wrestling the Engine out of the frame, knocking-down that baby all the way to parade rest. Needing a Gasket Kit, Sealants, Gears, Forks, Primary Chain Guide, Starter Clutch and Parts.

You got to be realistic and give yourself a good week or two.
Maybe more. With an "Open Budget" that starts at $250.

Or, you can simplify.
Jack Daniels, Magic Marker, Cardboard.
Get drunk, make a sign, attach to Bike, sit and wait!
Write-on a decent Price and include O.B.O.
Hope you get enough to pay for the hooch and marker.

 

Rick does offer a fix with the least amount of headaches. haha.

 

Don't move to England. EVERYTHING has to work, the exhaust must meet approved noise levels and the bike is inspected annually by an approved testing station. AND helmets have been compulsory for almost 40 years.

On the plus side, you can buy an XJr1300.......

 

Until the hangover kicks in