Pod Filters?

I can certainly see where that would make a difference. Its not a risk either, provided that the plug in the orifice is temporary and a way can be found to filter the bypass hole. I don't suppose pulling particulates into the carb through the bypass hole would be a very healthy thing. I may try and see. The risk is removed because the mod could easily be reversed by removing the plugs and filling in the bypass hole with either hot lead or JB Weld or a similar product.

 

Ya, the rickomatic bypass will have to be filtered right, what if you tie all the holes together with a mainfold of some type, and run a mini pod like we podders run on the crank vent?

I would be willing to give the rick co hole a try on my carbs come spring, for sure. If the hole is threaded it would be easily blocked by a set screw. Only real thing to figure out is the block off plate inside on the carb.

 

I would make the Bypass Hole just large enough to accommodate a Grommet.
I'd get a Vinyl Hose Fitting to "Mount" in the Grommet.
Add a short length of Hose.
Join 2 into 1 with a "Y" Fitting.
Add a Filter and hide the plumbing and filter beneath the Tank.

 

Instead of drilling holes in perfectly good carbs just make the block off with a small hole with a tube installed extending into the air filter?

 

That was my FIRST Mod.

My thought was to run the Hoses outside the Pod.

Might work.

 

I am in the process of trying to machine a plastic plug to fit inside the horn to run a tube from to the outside of the pod. I may have to drill a small hole in the top of the horn and tap it and use a small set screw to hold it in place. if it works i will try and post pictures of it.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just run a stock airbox in it's intended configuration? Sounds like a lot of work just to look cool.

 

pods and jets are cheaper than buying the stock airbox, mine was cracked when i got the bike and the boots where all terribly rotted. besides, i can now store tools,drinks, and other items where my airbox was formerly located.

 

I'm with zookie. If my airbox gets any worse, I will try to tackle running pods before I shell out $200+ for a new airbox and new rubber hoses.

 

Well, I looked at my carbs and it seems I won't be able to drill and tap because of the bracket that connects the 4 carbs together. It looks in the photo rick, that the mikunis have more space between that bracket and the flat part that the pod secures to.

I might just fabricate some new velocity stacks that would have a hole to run the line out of like genros illustration. That way you don't have to put a hole in the pod or the factory rubbers. And then connect them to a filter via some type of manifold.

However attatchment to the oriface in the carb is still needed to devise.

 

Ok im going to throw something out there and see if it floats. I have been trying to machine a plastic plug to fit in the horn to block it off and it is proving to be a nightmare due to the slope of the horn intake. I have been reading on several different web sites and forums about tuning CV carbs to pods. The rejetting is a given but they also talk about increasing the vent hole in the bottom of the slide to allow it to rise faster and reduce the up and down jitter the piston gets. No one talks about increasing the intake runners to shape the air flow. Do yall think increasing the vent hole will work in place of the blocking and reventing. Just a thought.

 

However the Cavity gets supplied with Atmosphere is going to be a leap in solving the Lean Condition associated with Pods.

As long as AIR gets supplied to the AIR Jets ... whatever Modification necessary to achieve the end result will likely have a beneficial outcome.

The new Vent just needs to let the Cavity below the Diaphragm Rubber "Breathe".

I suppose a Vent Hole or Slot located anywhere below the Diaphragm will do.

 

Scizor, I am also in the middle of a XJ bobber project, I bought some pod filters for my bike as well, (1981 XJ650) and havnt put them on due to my research and findings about re-jetting... although like some have said even after re-jetting still doesnt run well. my question is did you re-jet your carb and if you did or didnt how does it run. whats the point in rejetting if it still isnt going to run right or maybe worse. Also i have done alot of studying on the air box and have noticed there is what i believe is a vacuum line (i may be wrong). I am wondering what a person would do with that "vacuum" line after removing the air filter box and what damages that may cause... So far i am thinking it will be best to keep the factory air filter system even though it isnt cool looking like the pods. But who knows ive heard alot of people say that re jeting would need to be done for exhaust mods or straight pipes my pipes are cut in half and doesnt seem to have any effect other than louder than the normal electric weedeater factory sound.

 

The AIR Supply to Pilot and Main AIR Jets is more important than experimenting with Shims and Jetting.

Theoretically: You could have a Main FUEL Jet the size of a Fire Hose Nozzle and FUEL >> IS NOT << going to be adequately drawn-up into the Air Stream, ... up the Emulson Tube Center Passage without the AIR surrounding the TUBE to bleed through the tiny holes in the E-Tube to help SIPHON and ATOMIZE the FUEL metered by the Main FUEL Jet.

The presence of AIR surrounding the Emulsion Tube is VITAL to the BASIC FUNCTION of Fuel being introduced to the Intake Stream.

So: JOB-1 = Insure AIR surrounds Emulsion Tube.

Then, ...

Add: JOB-2 = "Shaped, non-turbulent, column of air passing-over the Exit Hole of the Emulsion Tube and Below the Hole Drilled at the Bottom of the Diaphragm Piston ==>> To LOWER Pressure and cause AIR to rush to where the Pressure is lowered.
1. Drawing AIR from the supply surrounding the Emulsion Tube causing Fuel to rise with that Air into the Intake Stream.

2. Lowering the Pressure within the Diaphragm Piston causing the AIR to vacate the Piston and the Diaphragm Rubber to collapse and the Piston with its Needle Valve attached to rise and facilitate Item #-1.

 

The dyno jet kit comes with a drill bit to enlarge the holes in the bottom of the slide. I will check on the size here shortly, my bike w/the stacks doesn't seem to have any lean symptoms, but am very interested to trying the rickcomatic bypass to see if I am missing something.

 

Give it some thought.

Sealing the Atmosphere Orifice and finding "Some other place" to VENT the Cavity BELOW the Diaphragm Rubber is the mission.

If the RAIL holding the Carbs together prevents Modifying the Carb and adding an External Atmosphere VENT ...

Use your imagination and Fabricate some other VENT which will supply Atmosphere to the cavity BELOW the Rubber on the Diaphragm Assy.

 

why doesn't everyone just buy UNI brand pods then that don't cover the orifice? Problem solved...my gosh, enough already

 

Reallly DW? I don't think you understand what exactly has been discussed in this thread, perhaps you should re-read, to try to gather the point.

 

Just remember how much slide/diaphragm assemblies and carb bodies cost before doing any DRILLING.

If you have a spare set of carbs to experiment with, fine. But I strongly recommend against drilling or enlarging holes in irreplaceable carb parts if you have no backup.

 

Yes, really. *I hope that "phrase of the moment (really) dies soon too BTW* There are thousands of XJ's and other bikes riding around the world right now WITH pod filters, including my old XS400J with UNI's on it. They don't neck down inside and have rubber covering the inlet. Just use those if you are struggling with your "tuning".

 

dw- its slowly dieing only to be replaced by another annoying phrase of the moment, SERIOUSLY.

 

:lol:

 

DW do you care to share the tuning process you went thru to get your 400 tuned right to run on pods. We are trying to figure out how and what needs to be done to tune our bikes to pods without going thru all the trouble the ones before us have gone thru. So just saying run UNIs does not give us much to work with.

 

I am not familiar with UNI pods, but if they make tuning easier I can only assume that the mounting boot is either longer or of a consistent and smooth diamater between the filter and the carb. This is the only way that I can see a pod supplying the necessary atmosphere to the vent. Is this the case?

 

UNI's are foam pods. I just upsized the main two sizes, pilots one, and shimmed the needle with a washer. set fuel screws to 3.5 turns and she ran like a top. this was with open headers with slash-cut tips.

 

I looked them up swguy they look alot like pods just the filter material is longer. The intake boots look the same as the pods. It maybe the restrictive intake air the foam provides that would make them different.

 

dw- what do the inside of the uni's look like? Is there some type of tube inside to keep the foam from collasping? If there is a tube inside then that would shape the air charge and may even drop the pressure at the horn needed for the slide to work properly. I can't find a picture of the inner workings of the uni's.

 

they have a spring inside them that gives the filter support. The inlet mouths are the same diameter all the way through unlike EMGO or other pods that neck down inside and cut off the air holes...

 

Ok I would like to know the size of pod filters you guys are running on your 1983 650 Maxim. I know ebay sell the 52 mm but I want to be sure before purchasing.

Thanks

 

Wow is the pod debate still raging? sheesh.

 

It's like herpes. It's here to stay...

 

Yeh... i think i'll go ride my pod equipped xj, with its stellar performance...

 

"So you're telling me there's a chance? YEAH!"

- Lloyd Christmas

 

52 mm is the right size.

 

Yeh, the hardest part is ignoring the people who cant get them to work.

 

For any and all looking to make pods happen, I managed it first try. Can't remember what I specifically did, but have faith, it can be done! My bike screamed and ran great.

 

See?

 

My bike screamed to high hell with my 4-1, remember her fondly. Now, everyone keep your fingers crossed for my next attempt; a 2 - cyl xs400j maxim.
I actually have to put pods on because I've got a shock from an xl650r that is going on, for a change in ride height. I'm building a tracker out of this, and because the shock is so fat, the airbox won't fit, and has got to go.

This will be fun to figure out, because the jets on either carb are different to begin with, so I'll have to find a mid point AND adjust for carbs. I think I'll be contacting Greg Hageman to see what jets he ended up with on his xs. He said that "Getting the jetting set up wasn’t even that tough, but finding a starting point took a little experimentation"

Post on his bike (and similar to what I'm going for, but with a longer seat to allow for girlfriends) is here: http://www.pipeburn.com/yamaha-xs400-tracker/

 

got lucky.

 

did anyone ever make a stock bike with pods ? wonder why?
do motoGP bikes use pods? wonder why?

 

if you dont have the numbers for jets it is of no help.

did you ride the bike with the air box for a base line?

so many claim sucess but it is rare they can tell you the numbers and carb mods they did.
of course your riding style is a factor on how well they work.

 

I also wonder how many bikes they have ridden for a base line. If you jump on a POD bike and you have nothing to compare it to, sure it will "run like hell".

 

I had a podded 750 gave it a try to dial the first summer. wasted no time putting the airbox back in when it arrived.
if your a flatand rider bike will be an ok ride but when hills are involved and you need the extra throttle to avoid cars power just was not there.

 

I have ridden my XJ750 maxim in 100% stock form few times prior to modifying it and going with pods. Drivability and smoothness stayed the same, starts every time, idles great after quick warm up, acceleration is smooth and without hiccups or deeps throughout entire RPM range. Uni 82mm pods, 43/134-136 jets, adjusted mixture screws, synced carbs. Also important mentioning that I live at sea level and highest elevation I ever ridden bike at was only 2000 ft. Power gain/loss I can’t comment on since after modifications I lost 105 lbs off of the bike so it’s a lot lighter over stock and not a fair comparison.

I was scared going with pods after reading all the horror stories online, but personally haven’t experienced any of it.

 

I fitted a set of Xj/fj600 mikunis to my 650 maxim, with cheap chinese pods. As a test, straight on, no modifications to jetting. It idled, started, warmed up great, ran fine on the road, no flat spots or issues. Are the spot on? I don't know, they feel it, but to be sure I will be testing with a wideband lambda.
I was so impressed I remachined the manifold ends to match the 650 manifolds, so they are staying.
I get the "pods aren't for everyone" thing, and getting them to work could cause a world of pain, and ultimately with an otherwise standard spec machine you are likely to lose torque somewhere, but equally I don't agree with the theory that they can't work without causing a missfire, melted pistons etc.

 

I do not recall anyone here making such a claim. The argument against pods is the ridability issues that come up, including a midrang bog that some people may be willing to ignore (among other things such as fuel mileage, etc.)

 

but my particular bike doesn’t have any bogging and no I am not ignoring it, it just doesn’t exist in my case.

 

Have mine podded. Like it mainly for the fact that it opened up the middle of my Seca. More room to move things around. Wasn't a fan of the battery placement or the look of the side covers. Once I got the Mix right everything seems to run very smoothly. Couldn't really say I know of any performance increase because I basically did it right away when I got the bike. At that time it needed a lot of work and didn't run well anyway. Now that everything is up to par though they seem fine. Riding in the rain seems to be the only real negative I have with pods honestly.

 

^+1
I do feel that most of the POD setups is for looks. I agree the bikes look great that way. I love the open "look" the area behind the carbs gives when the air box is removed. I would just keep it as a show bike, not a daily rider. It is just my opinion.

 

I should probably add that I am an everyday rider unless the plows are out and I've run it with pods for 3 years now.