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Progress report on "Satan" the XJ650 Seca

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by jamiedransfield, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Plus one on making the socket fit like XJ550H suggests.
     
  2. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Thanks guys. Ive picked up a different spanner to try, and if its nogo will be attacking a socket shortly.

    Also got new oil (Castrol 4t 15w50) and 2x k&n filters for a princely sum of $58 aud.

    Slowly getting there, just hope after this i can sort the bloody carbs once and for all. Time will tell i guess
     
  3. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    So the spanner was close, but no go.
    Will attack a socket this week and report back
     
  4. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Still nogo with the socket. This is whst ive got so far...
     

    Attached Files:

  5. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Going to take a bit more off today. Any feedback from you guys who've had to do this already?
     
  6. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Think you are going to have to mill it a little bit more. It's just got to have enough off to fit up there
     
  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    All I know about is the procedure and the need to modify a socket. I had my engine out for other reasons when I took the neutral switch out.
     
  8. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Ok guys, so i was using a file to mod the socket, got tired real fast and invested $25 in a cheap bench grinder which made short work of the socket.
    Even with the sidewalls thinned out and one side shaved off, its still a tight fit, i also had to shorten the depth of the socket about 5-6mm

    But this franken-socket got in, got the old switch loose and then i finished her off with a standard 14mm crescent from the side (just)

    Inspected the old switch, and shes definately got a few flat spots.

    New switch in, wire reconnected and all done!

    Just gotta do the filter and oil change to confirm shes all ok.

    Next and final step, back to the carbies :-S
     
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  9. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Oil filter installed, refilled with oil, fired the bike up for a min, just enough to get the oil pumping round etc.
    Topped up oil to aprox correct level (was just under 3 litres)

    Letting her sit overnigjt to confirm theres no lesks, but looks good.

    Will pull the carbs and check those float heights again next, and re inspect the float needle tips rubber to make sure theyre all ok.
     
  10. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Oh and i picked up a box of goodies from the PO yesterday too. Parts include partially stripped, poor condition rack of carbs, stripped and poor condition lower half (eg below cylinder) of the ORIGONAL MATCHING ENGINE! And other assorted knick knacks, but nothing to write home about.

    Either way im glad to hsve the cssing with the natching number and some spare csrb bodys.

    Question: are all the carb bodys the same, or different?
     
  11. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    1. Make sure theat the fuel line isn't attached to the carbs while you leave it sit since the float needles are suspect.

    2. One item that is often overlooked is the float needle seat gaskets. They can leak. The best thing to do is just replace them, along with the float needles and seats.

    3. There are three different carb bodies for each series of carb; one left, one right, and two middle. You should have HItachi HSC32 carbs. If you're lucky the carb ID stamps will still be visible on the bottom of the float bowls. The sure way to make sure you have the correct spares is to measure the carb throat with a set of calipers. Also check the size of the jets, as the same carb was used on several models, but with different jetting and needles.
     
  12. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    K-moe, what is the difference between left, right and middle carbs? How can i identify which is which visually (ill check the ones on tbe bike to make sure that they're correct while i have them apart)
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The right carb does not have a hole in the right side where the fuel transfer tube would go. The left carb does not have a hole on the left side where the fuel transfer tube would go. The middle carbs each have holes on both sides of the carb body fo the fuel transfer tubes.

    The fuel transfer tubes are # 49, 50, and 51 in this diagram http://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/500421d3f8700209bc7873ee/carburetor

    The ones on the bike will be correct af far as which carb body is in which position. There is no way to assemble the carb rack with the carb bodies in the wrong position and not notice.
     
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  14. jamiedransfield

    jamiedransfield Member

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    Thanks k-moe. Ill check the diam of the spare carbs. Looks like theyre in bad shape, and the PO has drilled out the idle mix screw and thread quite deep so mabey only 2 of the carb bodys are going to be ok. Oh well at least ill have a couple spares to start.

    For now ive got the main carbs off the bike, am gunna get a 1L aux tank tomorrow and try recheck and adjust the flost heights and see how i go from there.
     

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