Pumba the XJ750 project

Managed to join the Perth group for the worldwide 'Distinguished gentlemans ride'





Stunning day out in perfect weather.

 

So, Pumbas old engine that is still in running condition has now come in handy:



Into the spare frame.



Manifolds on.



Throttle bodies on.



Crank trigger on.



#2&3 coils on.



Because the rocker cover bolts are designed to tighen fully at a set tension on the rubbers, some care was needed to find a solution. Proper spacers are for later, as is rounded egdes for the brackets.



#1 coil bracket



#1 coil in place.

This is going to be fun!

 

Any update on the Efi?

 

Yep,
my modifications to the fuel rail (silver soldering) failed big time. Will be ordering a custom machined aluminium rail in the next few days.

Budget broken yet again.

 

Friday 615kms and Saturday 1,014kms. One thousand miles over the last 2 days!



Friday evening, Kalbarri hotel.



Met up with another rider doing the far ride and travelled together for a few hundred ks



Port Gregory.



Obligatory gorge pic, Kalbarri seems big on them.



Cliff risk area! 8O





1,000ks in one day, I was buggered!



For once I had packed something useful. This probably saved my ass when it was dusk and heading into the sun.

 

Man you're bike is absolutely gorgeous. Looks like you've been having fun! Keep up with the pics love seeing them!

 

I have just spent the last hour reading through... fantastic job there mate! LOVE IT!

 

How's the power of the bigger bore engine? Man I need to get my engine painted like that lol.

 

Any updates on your FI project Darkfibre?

 

How awesome is that

 

Damn, that's some bugs!!

 

Celebrating 10,000 miles (16,000klm) since getting Pumba on the road.

 

any progress on your efi conversion?

 

I know this post is from awhile ago, but I like the cleanup of the connectors.

Did you reuse all of the old wiring, then snip and replace the old connectors, or did you fabricate new wiring front to back?

It looks like you used...off the shelf connectors (radioshack..?) for some of the smaller, non weatherpack adapters. Is that right?

I have a rat condominium of nesting in my 750 headlight bucket... 8O

 

The connectors are just weatherpack and then a standard quick connect for the ignition switch. The mini connectors are standard for the Koso instruments.

As I had a few harnesses it was easy to find one that had zero corrosion in the wires. The worst harness had green copper conductors near the ends.

 

Long overdue, but how's the bike - still rolling around?

 

Bike is now for sale.

 

Hey DarkFibre,

I see you have a XJ750P Alternator. I'm looking to convert mine to the higher output alternator. Is there any XJ750P alternators over there in Australia? I know these are getting to be rare.

 

Quite a few XJ750s in perth have police heritage. Non curved wheels are the easiest thinkg to spot.

 

The 700X/750X waterhead maxim uses the same rotor\stator as the 750P.
The cover is the same casting, but painted black on the X.

 

WOW! This is very good news! Thank you so much MiGhost!

 

I just looked up the specs on the XJ700/750 Maxim X Generators: Hitachi LD119-19 AC Generator (14V, 26A at 5000rpm - 364Watt max). Guys who are looking for some extra juice should give this a try, I am.

http://www.maxim-x.com/specifications.html

 

Looking good

 

Awesome work! Looking to put on the same meter on my xj750 maxim.

 

Hi darkfibre,

I've been reading your Pumba project -great job BTW!- and it inspired me to replace the instrument cluster on my '82 Seca with one from Koso. However, I'm having difficulty figuring out the wiring. In your write-up, you do mention you simplified the XJ750 harness but I could not see which wire from the harness goes to which wire on the Koso gauge. Do you know/remember? Thanks.

 

Darkfibre hasn't been around for 2 years....

 

Here's some info I've saved from past conversion projects:
"I recently removed the rectangular instrument panel and installed a round headlight on my 1982 750 Seca. Here are the wiring mods if you want to remove the rectangular instrument panel. You can elect to keep the original headlight or replace with a different type.

After you separate the connectors and remove the rectangular instrument panel and relocate to your work bench. Remove the back cover and you will see the wires that go to the blinker lamps, neutral lamp and high beam lamp. You don't have to make any changes to the wiring to these lamps because the wires exit directly out of the Atari and go to their own connectors. You can do whatever you like with these wires. Redirect to alternate lamps or LED's (don't forget the current limiting resistor) if you want to retain the blinker, neutral, high beam indicators.

The headlight and tail/brake light wiring is a different matter. The wiring for these go from the harness into the Atari as one color and most exit the Atari as different colors. Below I have listed the cuts/jumpers you need to do in order to reconnect the headlight and keep the tail/brake lights operational.

For the head light, there is a six conductor connector (the one with the heavier wires) coming from the wiring harness. You need three of these wires for your headlight. The black wire is ground. The yellow wire is your high beam and the green wire is the low beam. The wires coming from the headlight connector are slightly different. Connect the two black wires together for the ground and then connect the yellow high beam wire to the headlight connector's yellow/green wire and then connect the green low beam wire to the headlight connector's green/red wire.

The wires for the tail/brake lights come out of the wiring harness in the same group of wires as the headlight wires but head off to a different connector than the connector that holds the headlight wires. You can see this on the wiring diagram below. You simply need to install a jumper at the connector or remove the connector and connect two pair of wires together. For the tail light you simply connect the blue and blue/white wires together and for the brake lights you simply connect the green/yellow and yellow/white wires together.

That’s it. This should also work for the Maxim as I checked its wiring diagram and with wire colors I described above are the same for the Seca or Maxim.
-----
All the connectors I talk about in this post are from the original gauge cluster except on the end from the wire harness and not the gauge.

(Ground) Black wires are usually ground wires (with for some reason an exception to the positive wire from the battery, ask chacal about that one) so the Black from the headlight is easy enough just to attach to the Black from the 6-pin connector or anywhere you see a black ground wire.

(Low Beam) Green From 6-pin connector connected to Green/Red of Headlight.

(High Beam)Yellow from 4-Pin (gauge cluster) connected to Yellow/Green of headlight.

(Tail Light) Blue From 9-pin Connected to Blue/White in 9-pin connector.

(Brake Light) Green/Yellow from 6-pin connected to Yellow/White in 6-Pin Connector.

(Fuel Sensor) I eliminated it because I don’t have one in my new tank. And if you’re getting rid of the computer you won’t have a gauge for it anyways.

(Turn Light on gauge) The XJ750R has a left and right turn signal indicator light but the new gauges from a maxim 650 only have one light. Looks like it should work if I take the Dark green from one light and the Dark Brown from the other light and put them on each side of a bulb.

(Oil Level Sensor) I believe this needs a certain diode to work that is normally part of the computer. If someone else knew what this diode is exactly it would be great if someone could inform me on this because I would like to keep this function.

(Side Stand Switch) I plan on just getting rid of this. I’m not sure if it is a normally open or normally closed circuit so I don’t know if I could just jump it or just pull it out all together. There are some other threads on removing these."

If you want the Word document I created (includes a couple JPG images that may be helpful) - just PM me, or do a search here on "Seca speedometer".

 

Thanks for the responses guys.

zap,

Thank you for the wiring info. I just sent you a pm.

 

Here's the link for the above info.
Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instruments
Credit where credit is due.

 

Damn this forum! Every time I come on here looking to waste 5 minutes someone revives a post that keeps me riveted for the next hour.
Damn it!

 

Ahh, we're a blessing in disguise

 

Thanks K-Moe.