Recommend me an Oil

So I decided to search online for a little empirical evidence of this suggested scam perpetrated on the motorcycling public and found this.
on our sister web site. It seams very complete and to the point. Those damn scientists, they always bring up that science stuff.Motorcycle oils VS Automotive

 

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

Very nice read! I wonder if there is any difference between a Diesel engine oil (like Rotella T) and a regular oil. I might make the change to Mobil 1 with my next oil change, but then again, I might just make the change to the synthetic Rotella.

 

Ok, do break down the numbers.

A 10W30 oil has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil cold (I think 32 deg.) and the viscosity of a 30 weight oil hot (I think 212 deg.).

A 10 weight oil cold is more viscous than a 30 weight is hot. So, there's really no reason not to go up on the top number. Now the first number is important cold. If the base weight is too high the pump will have trouble getting it through a cold engine, so you definitely don't want that because that IS when most wear occurs.

Now, if you read the article posted above you'll see that the multi-viscosity oils achieve that trick by putting in an additive. The additive molecule curls up into a little ball cold and doesn't add viscosity. As the oil warms up that molecule stretches out and adds viscosity.

Now, our motorcycles are different than most other vehicles in that the engine oil also lubricates the transmission. The gears actually chop those additive molecules up, reducing the hot temperature viscosity over time. Eventually the additive is destroyed so a 10W40 oil becomes a 10 weight.

Those reasons are the basis for my claim that a 20W50 is a suitable substitute for 20W40 but a 10W40 is not a good substitute.

Now, having said all that the synthetics are different. Because the polymers in a synthetic are uniform in length an additive is not necessary to achieve the multi-viscosity properties. This is because the viscosity yardstick is mineral oil, which is a blend of many different length polymers. Synthetic oil viscosity won't change with use. That's why these are preferred.

Motor oil has phosphorous added to reduce wear on initial start up. The EPA has restricted the amount of phosphorous that can be in car oils. The restriction does not apply to diesel oils. So, the diesel oils offer more cold start protection. That's why the Rotella T is so popular.

Personally, I choose to run mineral oil and change it every 1000 miles or so. It ends up costing about the same as synthetic every 2000 miles, but I never have more than 1000 miles worth of dirt in it.

 

Very interesting thread. I learned a lot. I have 1 question though.
How much oil is 2200 cc? I know, 2200 cc. What does that convert to in quarts or even liters?
I need to change my oil, but don't want to under/over fill it.
Thanks.

 

2200 cc = 2200 cu. cm = 2.2 liters (move the decimal place three to the left) = 2.32 quarts.

Roughly a liter = a quart (actually there are ~3.8 liters to a gallon) so a quart is slightly less than a liter but almost the same.

 

Great! Thanks pvt. My bike will be getting new oil this weekend!