Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Just looking at this closer now I don't even have the heating element hooked up.
AEM state the minimum Power/IO connections required to operate the gauge are switched 12V (5A fuse) and ground, the Red and Black wires, so that's all I hooked up.
The wiring schematic shows the heater element Brown + and White - 0-5V and optional??

Is yours an AEM gauge? Perhaps I should follow your advice, I could just put a 2 prong plug on it and plug it into the pig tail for my battery charger/electric vest once the motor is running.

 

14point7.com

 

OK I had it wired correctly.
I had to buy a 5A fuse, once I turn on the key the unit begins heating the element in the sensor.
Takes about 10 seconds to complete heating (20 on the scale) then you can push the starter button.

Bezos just dropped off the valve shim I needed so working on buttoning up the valve cover.
The sensor is supposed to have 18" from the head, I mounted them too close, hopefully still reads ok.

 

OK I set the valves, set all carbs at 2-1/4 turns on the mixture screws then balanced them with the mercury stick.
I left it idling at a very steady 2,000 rpm.
At this idle the FPR stayed between 13.0 and 14.0
I had to stop thinking that it was 13.0 parts air to 1 part fuel
Instead just think of it as oxygen (bigger number) more is leaner, (smaller number) less oxygen - richer.
According to what I read this is pretty much what you want to see at idle.
Under turbo boost best to stay between 11.5 and 12.0.
11.5 is target and anything over 12 becomes dangerous
Nothing left but to put the tank on and go for a rip!
Should be fun to see where the stock Yamaha main jets read, very cool tool!
Then do it again with cylinder 2.
The stoichiometric ratio is 14.7:1 (or lambda 1) which means 1 part fuel needs 14.7 parts air to fully combust