SIMPLE MOD MAY SOLVE POD TUNING HARDSHIPS!

idk if it works or not i havnt read through the hole think but jetting and sealing passage ways to drill new ones are not the same at all thats all i have to say dont try this unless you are ready to buy new carbs if it dosnt work

 

Cheap carbs on ebay

Just in case someone wants to try it out.

 

The "Bypass" has been improved upon since this design was submitted.

But, the notion that Drilling some holes into the Intake Horn would ruin the Carbs is bunk.

If the Holes needed too be Plugged after abandoning the prototype; they could be VERY EASILY Plugged with:

Plastic or Rubber Plug or Caps.

NO BIG DEAL.
Easy as Pie.
So sweat.

http://www.stockcap.com/prod_detail.asp?id=117&cat=13

 

can we have the improved upon details refreshed to this thread so we dont have to search the forum to find it please

 

i sent mine into carbking.weebly.com it came back within 4 days cleaner then i ever expected i think he even put new jets in free best part only cost me 13$ plus shipping bike runs great now that i could tune it think ill go ride now for those who are scared to open up these things i was n-eways

 

Yes i will place a new thread once i finish the research of the modifaction/add-on piece. so that people don't have to flip thought all 17 pages.

 

I have a 650 maxim with pods. Would be willing to test this theroy (not with my carbs of course). Solution theroy sounds ok but man gotta agree with fitz, no offense but bullshit talks and positive proof makes us all happy.

 

gladly when i finish my testing. i had to post pone due to exhaust leak. so once i finish my custom exhaust will get back to testing and tuning

 

Before this Prototype got introduced; just about the only bit of advice there was to offer someone tuning for Pods was:

"You got to rejet."

Except that nobody ever really spelled it out.

"You got to rejet, ... over, and over, and over, and over and over again!"

Now, there's something else to try.
Supported by theory instead of guesswork.

 

OK here is the stage one testing. I completed two test one with the tub inserts and one with out inserts.

With inserts
Lost high idle enrichment- would run with enrichment but the idle wouldn't pick up like it always did.

Tried different configurations
1. Tubs soldered together at seam
2. Tubs unsoldered
3. Tubs Unsoldiers and drilled on top

All thee configurations welded the same outcome. didn't effect lean/rich setting and didn't change performance.

Chance two no tubs just shortened boot.
1. I cut boot back to make back of filter meet up with front of carb.

This welded a better lean/rich mixture. more towards richness

Custom exhaust mod.....

Set me back a little but help out with evening out the lean/richness

FINDINGS

1. Stock exhuast will run leaner on the #1 and #4 piston due to exhuats configurations. the headers creates more back pressure on the #2,#3 cylinders. This is in my theary because the #2,3 turn into the #1 and 4 exhuast pipe. cause a clash of the exhuast pulse. helping #2,#3 run richers.

2. If you run stock exhuast and want to run pods this is what you will have to due.( This is just a test and not alot of other bikes have done it.)

1 if you buy the cheap pods cut the boots so that the inner flange is up against the carb
2. Cut a groove in the boot to allow alingment with the kidney opening.
3. install stage jet size +4 into your bike. but from there.

REMEBER THIS IS JUST A 2500 MILE TEST. I HAVE MORE TESTING TO BE COMPLETED. AS I GET GOOD FINDINGS I WILL POST

Edit:
I'm going to tear down my carbs I believe I have a few blocked ports. I need to get larger jets now due to large exhaust pipe. But I believe that after carbs are clean everything should be good. But again I will not know till I finish cleaning and rejet to the correct size. 140 anyone know where I can get them? And an increase pilot jet.

 

You do realize that doing this mod with a home made custom exhaust means the results will not be valid for those with standard exhausts?

 

2000 miles of my testing was before I did the custom exhaust. That is how I realized that the exhaust itself causes a problem too, on the design they used. it’s the reinvents of the pods not the overall system. I’m trying to get the pods to work correctly. Yes I do realize that with the custom exhaust i have to go up in jets but that is a given with any engine mod to an older bike.

What I am trying to do is allow the pods to breathe and not cause too much interference/turbulence with the upper kidney opening.

I have been looking at the design of the carburetors and going over air flow. After spending about 4-5 hours on this problem with the air flow what each part does. I have decided that I will be making a rig that hooks a vacuum on a dimmer switch to allow changes to RPM and air velocity. This will allow me to test the carburetors and how they pull air across with the stock air box and Pods set up. This will allow for further trouble shooting of the pod setup.

 

Where to get 140 jets ?? Your bike takes 110 - -

You're going +30 ?? on jet size. . .(thirty! 8O )

RickCoMatic has posted a handy-dandy drill bit table,
you just drill them out yourself if you can't find them.

 

yes i have a custom 1.5 exhuast with no mufflers and pods. I have 128 in there now and running lean after exhuast mods. all i had to do to fix with stock exhuast was put 130 and would have been great

 

Its just that this was meant to be (as per the title and the original theory) a simple mod so people could just do the mod when they put on pods.

Can you fit pods and do the mod ride away all good with no tuning hardships? Y/N

 

don't know yet.... Put with out going up in jet size no because you are increasing the air into the engine so you have to increase the fuel there is no way around that

 

The initiall Test was done with 1 Carb hooked-up to the Hose of a Shop-vac.

The idea of a dimmer switch sounds like a good idea. You should be able to match real Intake Vacuum rather than W-O-T conditions.

 

Ok so this is what i have done to help fix the turbulance problem. I put a small camera at the end of my carb. This allowed me to look into the carb as they ran. i ran the bike and noticed that the fuel delivery from the orfis tube looked like it spottered more than anything. Wasn't a smooth flow. i put a 2 inch piece of tape over the filter on one side. One this restricted the air two it it allow an area that doesn't pull air in and seems to have a better draw from the orfis/neddle. will keep testing but u may be adding a plate to the inside to help calm down the intake turbulance

 

I know someone on here added restrictor tubes inside the pods and they claimed it helped. Makes some sense.

 

To have the FUEL exit the MAIN NOZZLE (Emulsion Tube) there needs to be:
1) A Lower PRESSURE at the Top of the TUBE
2) MAIN AIR present surrounding the Tube to get drawn-up bringing MAIN JET FUEL with it.

Rivulets of FUEL getting draw-up into the Intake Stream do not supply sufficient power.

To combat the conditions which cause the MAIN JET supplied FUEL to Rivulet you have to solve two problems.
a) Shape and Speed of the moving column of AIR above the Orifice.
b) Supplying AIR to be drawn-out the Orifice.

These two circumstances require:
• A "Shaping device" -- i.e. Velocity Stack
• Insuring that there is a sufficient MAIN AIR Supply.
>> Atmosphere
>> Larger Ports in the Nozzle
>> Larger Main AIR Jet

*** Possibly modifying the Diaphragm Piston Orifice and Spring Resistance to allow the Diaphragm to LIFT earlier and faster when Manifold Vacuum is present.