SIMPLE MOD MAY SOLVE POD TUNING HARDSHIPS!

What a saga! I was practically biting my nails for the ending! Reading it through though makes me wonder if I should just get a new air box (my 700 didn't come with one and currently has pods)...Alas, it doesn't hardly run at all

I do have a general question about carbs (hope it's ok to post it here):

The previous owner of my bike said that on all 4 carbs, he was screwing in the jets and the tubes which the jets set into "broke" loose and would spin. He suggested that I seal the perimeter of the tubes against the carb bodies. He thought there was a vacuum leak at that contact point and is part of the reason why it won't stay running.

Is it normal for them to spin and if not, any thoughts on the best approach to remedy it?


(Please excuse the lack of technical names in my description...I tried looking them up in my service manual; but until I pull the rack, I won't know which exact tubes and jets he was referring to...He seemed to think it was abnormal nonetheless.)

Anyhow, great work everybody!!! An amazing thread for sure!

 

Rick's previous post gives you the terms - "MAIN NOZZLE (Emulsion Tube)" and your Main jet is screwed into that. You could tighten this by placing some tape on a Phillips screwdriver, and then apply some pressure to the "NOZZLE" with one hand, while tightening the jet. Don't get it too tight !! (the tape keeps the Phillips from gouging the brass.)

Epic thread indeed !!

 

Are you kidding me you have not figured this out yet

 

Shhh... there's a reason for that...

Ejpt your question about the emulsion tubes will answer itself once you take the carbs apart. And from the sound of things you're already further along knowledge-wise, than your PO.

 

Thanks bigfitz52. The PO seemed like he knew quite a bit about motorcycles in general (he actually imparted a good deal of knowledge to me), however whereas he ran outta' steam on the project, I have an abundance...Maybe I'm a blind fool; but I'm having fun so far!

 

"Seemed like" being the operative phrase. He did rip the airbox out and pull the front brakes off, after all.

You might want to fact-check any of that "imparted knowledge" before trusting it.

 

Don't risk applying sealant too the Emulsion Tubes. You risk clogging the Air Orifices.

Use an Artists Wooden Handled Paint Brush to "Set" the E-Tube.
Fit the Tube on the end of the Brush and guide it into place.

Apply pressure to the Brush Handle to prevent the Hitachi Emulsion Tube from spinning while tightening the Main Jet.

Mikuni's are Slotted and Keyed.

 

Thanks for the tips guys...Sorry...Wasn't trying to hijack the thread...I'll wait patiently along with everyone else for the riveting climax to this saga!

 

I'm rather new to bikes so forgive me if my understanding is off; but (correct me if I'm wrong) that a problem with pod filters is the fact that:

Each carb will yield different air pressure based on its physical position on the bike and CV carbs need the air pressure to be the same between all the carbs.

It has been said that staggered velocity stacks will help with this (by making the air pressure more-or-less equal on each carb I presume).

It seems like this approach would only be an approximate equalization and in a stiff cross-breeze or perhaps when in a sharp fast turn could in effect greatly mess-up that approximate equalization.

Why not have a single slim air box between the carburetors and the pods which would bridge the carb's airspace together and create equalized pressure between all carbs? This seems simpler than trying to fine-tune the staggered velocity stack lengths to compensate for the differences in air pressure.

The box could be fitted with adjustable baffles so that each pod's "contribution" to the air pressure could be adjusted...Maybe even a baffle for each carb too.

I don't know if this is an absurd proposition. I'm just trying to understand carb dynamics.

 

Ejpt - no, the problem is not that diff carbs see diff pressure. They don't "suck air away" from each other, and the airflow around the engine isn't that big a deal; if airflow was the problem, the bike would run fine at idle or on a dyno after mounting pods, and only have trouble on the road.

The problem is that all the carbs see different airflow (usually more at high rpm, less at low & mid rpm) relative to RPM than what they were initially set up for. Although, if Rick is right, it looks like the air flow pathway relative to specific parts of a carb may also be an issue.

 

Thanks for clearing that up sebwiers. I'm kinda' new to all this and appreciate the info.

 

I am Wondering what Rick was using to make the SMOKE when he was testing these carbs I Think I can guess what it was

 

Designed for, not just set up for. It's not so much that it's "different" airflow (it is) it's the "shape" and pressure (or lack thereof) of that now unrestricted supply of air. We have had a couple of members that have had great success by installing their pods on the ends of the original rubber airbox-to-carb boots (which are in fact, cleverly disguised velocity stacks.)

Look at the design of the original airbox. The four stacks all go into a wide, common chamber. The air filter itself is in a different section of the box; with the size of the opening between the two regulating the volume of air fed into the "intake" chamber.

The airbox regulates the volume of available air. The BOOTS act as velocity stacks so that the airflow into the carbs isn't turbulent.

 

Reading this thread makes me absolutely positive that I will never ever be interested in changing either of my bikes to pods.

The time and effort that has been spent on the pods in this thread is more than I have spent getting my 650 from no start and die on throttle to running like a scalded dog.

Never have I wished either of my bikes had more power.

For those that want to mess with pods more power to you. Pun intended.

 

Amen.

And 9 times out of 10, it's done for looks without any thought being given to what the effect on the motor will be. The rampant willingness to sacrifice real performance in the pursuit of "cool" is something that simply escapes me.

But then I never have been all that big on "form" over "function."

 

The first thing a new owner should do before ripping-out the Airbox and fitting individual Pods on the Engine; is spend the time doing a Full Monte' STOCK Tune-up.

Adjust the valves.
Thoroughly clean the Carbs and Polish the Bores.
Complete all the processes to place the Carbs ready for Tuning.
Bench Sync, Colortune and Vacuum Sync the Carbs to the highest level of Fine Tuning possible.

Know how well the Bike will perform before initiating modifications to the Intake.
Experience how well the Plant can deliver exciting performance throughout the whole power-band and cruise all-day long at 6-Grand on-the-tach, as smooth as a baby's butt, making you wish there was another gear or two to shift too.

 

I couldn't agree more.

But isn't this your thread to begin with?

 

I just want the New Members to understand, ... that while I DO NOT recommend installing AIR PODS, ... I am involved in trying to find a solution that will aid in overcoming the problems inherent when they are substituted for the Airbox.

 

Again, I couldn't agree more.

Which is why I don't understand why everyone keeps ignoring the obvious. A large part of the solution is right before our eyes: the original carb to airbox boots are velocity stacks.

We have one or two members that have enjoyed great success with their "pod-modded" bike by simply using the stock airbox boots between the pods and the carbs.

I'm betting that velocity stacks, which help to shape, direct and speed up airflow, are a lot more important to the equation than we've realized, mostly because the stock boots just look like rubber tubes.

Anybody with a stock bike IS running velocity stacks; it's just not apparent.