SIMPLE MOD MAY SOLVE POD TUNING HARDSHIPS!

I'd first start with mods that are reversible before moving on to non-reversible.

I figure I could try it with the 650 that will arrive in the spring since there is no title for it. I can't register it in NY til I find a good titled frame, I already have enough other xj's to ride and work on, have another 650 that is being prepped to sell, probably not going to go back to keeping a 650, and so may as well use this one as a guinea pig.....and will help the xj pod-knowledge base either way.....and won't inconvenience anyone either.
Dave F

 

Heck yes.

I still think the rubber stacks are going to provide the best solution.

Let's see. Go Dave.

 

I can do it without drilling into the carbs.

However::::

The process never was / is not / still ain't: Irreversible.

There's a whole world of PLUGS in the event you'd need some.
But, now I don't.

(Type "D" or Type "T")

http://www.rubbergrommets.com/products/ ... et_bumpers

 

Hey folks, I'm Joe from south Texas. I was given an 82 xj650 project bike last year and want to get it running. I googled the bike and found your site, very impressive. I'm new to this world but very eager to learn. I enjoyed this string and look forward to the results. Thanks

 

Well since no one stepped up, I'm diving in. I'll be working on the mod this weekend. Earlier in the tread I posted mine was running fine. Well my commute doesn't require me to go past 55. But I decided to take it up a bit and the bike topped out at 70MPH. Did a plug chop after hitting 70mph and sure enough, I'm running lean. So I decided to try it. As for everyone splitting hairs on being irreversible, it is totally reversible. The carb won't look the same but will still perform the same if you decide to reverse the process. Rick, I'll be in touch to let you know the outcome.

 

Still working this out to be able to abandon the Mood and return to Normal.

This is my latest look at the Drawing Board.

A Small 1/4" Hole is Drilled into the Center Plate of the POD.
A short length of 1/4-Inch Copper Tubing is run from this drilled hole to the Front of the Pod; leaving 3/4" of of Tubing protruding at the Rear of the Pod.

The protruding end is secured to the Pod.
An Internal Star Serrated Locking Washer is forced onto the Tubing; preventing the Tubing from further movement and locking the Tubing in place.

A 1/4" OD Vinyl Hose i s inserted into the Atmosphere Port to a depth of one inch.
The Hose is SEALED into the Atmosphere Vent with Silicone Caulk or RTV Sealant.

Once the Sealant cures; the Hose is connected to the Copper Tubing.
The Atmosphere Vent is now isolated from pressure lowering air-flow across its opening.

Once the Pod is Mounted, ... withdraw the Tubing until kinks and Slack is removed.
Reposition Locking Ring.

Shorten Protrusion to acceptable length for affixing Foam Filter.
Attached sufficiently pimped foam element to tubing end.
Glue it.

 

somebody just f***en do it already

 

haha +1

 

Or a guy could just run the stock rubbers on the pods. Since those are what preform the magic of the airbox. Why does everybody here over-think everything? K.I.S.S.- Keep It Simple Stupid

 

+1+1+1

 

In the manner of Keeping it Simple:

If the Stock Rubbers are left on, ...

What keeps the Pod from falling off?

::: The idea of retaining the Airbox Boots was presented in an earlier Thread about the necessity to defeat Turbulence and Intake Horn Vortices :::

::: THIS Thread is for Performance Improvement that does not include Velocity Stacks, Rubber Boots and such.
This is what to do to Improve Performance running Naked Pods. :::

::: Refined to EXCLUDE the need for DRILLING into the Carb Body -- to eliminate what some have labeled "Irreversibly Damaging" the Carb. :::

 

Awesome motorheaded! I look forward to seeing the outcome, Glad you're manning up and giving it a shot. I pretty much have to do this on my Honda 650 NH because we have even more issues running pods and tuning than you all do but I'm not at that point in my build yet. My hope is honestly to just make it easier to tune, and once tuned, working properly throughout the throttling cycle without hiccups. I appreciate this thread a lot and the hack goes well you will be saviors on the NH forums as well.

 

Rick, if you look at the picture in my sig, there is a metal lip on the pod where the rubber that came with the pod sits in. The factory rubber airbox boots have grooves where they fit into the airbox. They are a perfectly tight match to put the pod on the boot. Takes about 3 minutes to do all four and is as simple as it gets.

 

I think your Honda NightHawk is equipped with Mikuni's.

The Mikuni's have a different arrangement for supplying Main AIR to surround the Emulsion Tube.

On some Mikuni Carbs, the Main AIR Jet is situated in a separate orifice on the Intake Horn.
Insuring that the Main AIR Jet has undisturbed atmosphere present will require running air to the AIR-Jet orifice, ... too.

 

I'll try to scan the carb pages of my manual when I get to the carb part of my build to let you have a look. I'm working on my friends 82 650 seca which is actually how I stumbled across this great forum so all this stuff is still great info. My carbs look alot like his and have that same kidney shaped hole so I assumed they worked the same.

 

Has anyone made any headway on this mod??

 

Hitachi's:
Require Atmosphere Vent ONLY.
(MAIN Air Jet located beneath Rubber Diaphragm)

Mikuni:
Requires Atmosphere Vent
:: and ::
Main Air Jet Vent, ... too.
(Main Air Jet located just inside Rim of Intake Horn.

 

So has this experimental work around been produced and proven efficacious? I am curious for my own build; I was hoping to put pod filters on my hard back bobber (since the original airbox will no longer fit). I am pleased with the dedication you have shown to this forum and this experimental fix Rick. I am just hoping that somebody could verify the method. I will undertake the operation on my carburetor if nobody else will

 

Has anyone tried those dual pod k&n's? Instead of one per cylinder you get one per 2 cylinders.

 

I'm happy someone's going to give it a shot.

The whole idea is to supply a missing piece to the Naked Pods dilemma.

Once the issue of Insufficient Atmosphere is resolved; there's other factors to deal with in Fine Tuning.

AIR Jet size might be an issue.
Diaphragm Piston Internal Pressure Orifice may need resizing.
Before its over, ... the Air-bleed holes in the Emulsion Tube may need to be increased in number, ... by adding more holes, in the vacant quadrants, to Increase Air Flow and Atomize an Increased Volume of Main Jet Fuel.