SIMPLE MOD MAY SOLVE POD TUNING HARDSHIPS!

I am waiting on my pod filters and I am going to try the vinyl tubing method sealed into the atmosphere vents; I will update on the progress and my relative success

 

I have a Set of Stock Emulsion Tubes salvaged from various Parts Carbs.

I have a machinist at the local Tech School who said he'd drill new holes in the quadrants between the stock holes.

PM me with your address and I'll send them to you when he gets them done.

If the Bike-Gods deem us worthy; the Lean Condition presented by running naked Pods will become a thing of the past.

 

Well RickCoMatic, did the BIKE-GODS deem you worthy??? grunt 007, 81'XJ 750 Seca R, Mi.

 

The "Real World -- On-a-bike" trials are still incomplete.
But, excited about the prospect; I'm having a set of E-Tubes customized.

We are presently discussing whether we should just duplicate a second set of Air Holes in the quadrants not drilled.

Drill a set of Holes at the same "Height", ... but, incrementally increase the diameter a size as we drill the new set of holes.

Re-drill ALL the Tubes to have the Holes enlarged a step fm Bottom to Top?

 

I'm interested in seeing if the e-tube hole enlargement is worth it. I know that when I had first ran my bike without pulling that little guy out, it was really crappy. After cleaning the holes out and polishing it made a huge difference.

What happens if the holes get too big? Could you then re jet smaller? Or chuck in trash.

Side note: I tore my engine down for some work, and after 3000 hard riding miles with the velocity pods there is no sign of hot spots on the pistons or valves. No lean condition. Future will bring my own thread with pics.

 

There would obviously be a "Point of Diminishing Results"

Therefore, I won't enlarge the Metering Holes at first.
Just increase their number.

The idea is to INCREASE Siphoning.
Too much AIR will "Out-siphon" the Main FUEL Jet Supply.
Just worsening the Lean Condition.

 

Would you try then an only slightly larger main fuel jet (than stock) after increasing the # of holes? The idea being to draw more fuel after the point of the jet?

 

Are we talking about pods on a XJ650? I don't know about you guys but my bike runs perfect and has pods. I tossed a pic in my gallery of my fresly rebuilt carbs. My bike starts perfect, idles perfect, and rips and roars perfect through the whole powerband right up to red perfect.
There was no magic involved at all. I just read alot of posts and found a few people out there who had the correct setup, then did what they did.
one size up #41 on the pilots and #118 mains.
Then it is mandatory to buy a can of carb dip, it is available at the parts store, it looks like a 1 gallon can of paint and is the only real way to perfect a carb without a sonic tank. The second mandatory item is compressed air. Remove EVERYTHING and soak in the carb dip, then blow everything out with compressed air and use a nylon brush to clean everything you can get to. assemble with perfection and new gaskets/ seals and reap the fruits of the labor, the first time through. Check my gallery to see how they turn out with the dip, these were some ugly, poor running mama's before the rebuild.

 

Tech50, I am on the pods side of this debate. There are a lot of folks here who say you are gonna melt your pistons down if you run pods. I don't believe it, and I have proof. So this is just an ongoing debate of what the "best" pod set up is.

 

Reading this thread was like watching a movie with no ending. All this drama and suspense and debate and no final conclusion. Not even an attempt. I feel cheated and would like a refund for the cost of admission please.
On a serious note I do hope that there's an eventual trial of this theory. I'm quite intrigued to know it it works even though I plan on sticking with my stock airbox.

 

Its not a movie, it's a serial soap opera. You will HAVE to check back next week to see if.........

 

Ok, now it would seem that now I have heard about all on the Pod issue. Years ago I picked up I believe a 750 Honda which had been modified with Pods but they had gone further than that to get the output of POWER! I picked it up for $300 and it looked like new! Problem was they couldn't get it to run with out Popin and Pissin. I worked on that bike all winter tuning the carbs with my stick, (filled with Mercury back then), wish I had kept it, they were the best. By the time Spring came that Sucker was running so Hot that the first time I took it out of the garage it went right out from underneath me and dumped me in the grass. (But did it run GREAT to say the least. The next morning I had a man at my shop door with $1,300 cash in hand that wanted the bike! I sold it and regret it to this day. It had Pods on it, flamed out tank and even though the carbs were different than the Yamaha they posed no problem to the performance. To this day I don't even know how the buyer knew I had that bike, I never advertised it for sale? grunt007, 81' Yamaha 750 Seca, Mi. I still have a picture of it but I still don't know how to properly get a picture on this site??????

 

How PODS perform on Bikes other than XJ-Series Yamaha Bikes equipped with different Carbs isn't at issue.

Getting the BEST Performance that can be achieved on Yamaha XJ-Bikes with Hitachi CV Carbs is the matter in question.

 

Ok I have read thought this thread and will start getting the parts to mod the pods they only cost 20 w shipping. I do notice a lean on my engine no matter what I do to mixture screw. And if I could get the engine from running so hot would help out. Rick you help me once and I take your theory and will do my best to put it to the test. Just will have to give me time. I know how important it is to have proper mixture for a long running engine. I am a mechanic by trade and love a Good challenge. Rick If you could PM me with that drawing I could try to tweak design and get a final working product.

 

After brain storming last night I’m come up with a little easier way that will do nothing to the carburetor and is totally reversible. I was talking with my welder, throw some ideas at him. We came up with instead of using tubing and RTV. We will get the thinnest metal that he has which is 32guage tin. Modify it so that it will fit into the orifice; there will be a tab that will come off . This tab will sit in between the pod boot and the carburetor outer wall, securing it to the carburetor when you tighten down the pod. The tub that was made will continue through the end of the pod exiting in a circular hole same diameter as the orifice opening that will then be soldiered to the end cap it will protrude about .25 in out. I will get a drawing up once I finish my morning Formation and have a few min to draw up and will start construction this week and once I have them complete will have pics and after running conditions posted. Right now I’m lean white plugs. Will keep you guys posted and if anyone has and other ideas or would like to put some input would be great.

 

I can't wait to hear more on this! Excellent work gentlemen

 

here is a quiet paint drawing that i completed to ilistrate what im talking about. i have the metal and will start to bend and take pictures as i prossed. the mod will be clamped between the flange and the boot. the tub will be pushed the hole that is cut in the top of the filter. any questions ask away. will make it as easy to make as possible. just want to stop my engine from running lean

 

Ok all the prosses has started here are some of my first prototype shaping. I have to take a little off the tub and try again. Its Just a little bigger than opening. Whats your guys input. I still need to put the upper tab that will sacure it to the carb but besides that its coming together.

 

Here is a finished one. i have to make the jig to make them faster. but there is no modification needed to be done to carb. a very snug fit in the port.

 

Are you going to put filters on the tube end that protrudes?