SIMPLE MOD MAY SOLVE POD TUNING HARDSHIPS!

If somebody shows-up at my place with Pods and wants to do this Mod, ... I'll do what I can to help.
Don't expect a miracle.

Do expect to do just-about everything we need to do, ... alone.

I'm handicapped, now.
Paid a neighborhood kid to do my last oil change.
My tinkering days are done.

 

All mass produced equipment is built to a cost & a best average otherwise the manufacturer couldn't sell & make a profit or distribute world wide.
Quality control in mass production also affects the production.

So saying you can't improve on a mass produced vehicle or personalise it, or adept it for the area you live in is just putting the blinkers on.

A quote from another thread on this forum discussing what the engineers did
"I don't think Yamaha ever realized that a few of us actually use our bikes as transportation. Or maybe there were so few of us they didn't care.

The MAJORITY of bikes sold in the US, especially in those days, were just "toys." (Still are, actually.) That's why there are so many low-mileage bikes here that suffer from fossilization.

Yamaha knew that and didn't waste money including bits that were largely (because of how they would be used) unnecessary."

 

First pod change before tubs inserted. I have realized that the pods that I installed have a gap between the carb and the boot. So I just cut the boat. This is the pre write up of performance.

1000-2400 - no hesitation idle running rich
2401-4000 - lean very noticeable hesitation
4100-6000 - lean running pulls hard
6000- redline - lean no hesitation really strong acceleration

 

Bulls%*t...as long as you can still communicate you are not done. The wealth of knowledge and skill you have gained, shared, and continue to share is just as much tinkering as if you were turning the wrench yourself.

 

Orange and black what carbs did you switch too?

 

"I'm sure it would improve some if there was a way to mount the Pod to the Rubber Boot."

So why not get a short piece of rubber hose with an I.D. the size of the carb opening, get a piece of pvc pipe with an O.D. the size of the I.D. of the rubber hose and slide the pvc into the rubber hose leaving enough of the pvc protruding out of the rubber hose to attach the pod. You then have a "tunnel" similar to the boot from the airbox to the carb.

Granted I have no scientific reason this would work, just a thought from a novice.

 

Since the beginning of time; it's always been all about speed.
History would have us believe that Man shaped the first wheel from stone about 2500 years BC.

Well-made "Spoked" wheels appeared on carts at: 500 BC.

Still, ... SPEED was what Man wanted and the desire to go a few-hundredths of a second faster over a measured distance than the other guy the never-ending story that helped bring about PODS.

 

To an extent, that is true. At the same time, each of these carbs were tuned to a very specific setting unique to that carb for its best performance and then sealed to prevent future adjustment by the user. Supposedly, this was done as part of the build of the bike

Also, while there is likely to be a small amount of tweaking which might improve performance, I find it difficult to believe that a major component change is going to be beneficial, else I believe Yamaha would have done it that way in the first place.

Wrench, running lean in everything above 2400, where you spend most of your time, is very dangerous as it is running much hotter and you are very likely to hole a piston sooner than later.

 

hey guys did the spark plug test today after boot cut. ran engine in third gear up to red line in stages

color brake down for rich/lean test

1000-2400 tan idle great
2401-5000 lighter tan than previous
5000-7500 light tan
7500-red line darker tan/brown

backfire on geared decceleration

wil take picture next time.
I have not done colortune test at all don't have the tool.
im going to reverify sync this weekend

 

Tan is good ... I believe a colortune is your best direction at this point, so you can actually see the burn in the chamber. Color will tell you temperature ...

 

looking at the colortune plug now... does anyone have one near Washington, DC. i don't have the 80 dollars or so sitting around. and would like to tune correctly. i would like to be able to get all areas running well with the pods.

 

If you already have it running; you can go-to Plug Chops rather than ColorTuniing.

ColorTune is a Tool that lets you find the right Miixture for IDLE.
It helps set the IDLE Mixture correctly to get the Bike to IDLE.

BEFORE ColorTune was available; the process was done by EAR.

::::::
Old School By-ear Tuning
By: Rick Massey
ALL Rights Reserved. ©

Be a Tweaker.
This is “Real Old School Tuning”
By “Ear”

:::: IMPORTANT ::::
Run Electric Fans to provide Air Cooling during Tuning.

Start 2.5 ~ 3 Turns OUT from bottom on all 4 Carbs
For 750 Bikes I’d set them at just between 2-3/4 & 3 … closer to 3
Put two drops of light Oil in each Pilot Mixture Hole.

:::::: IMPORTANT ::::::
Make yourself a screwdriver that FITS the slot on the Pilot Mixture Screw with Precision. Even if yours are loose and won’t bind … you want to be able to “Feel” the Screw moving. If they aren’t loose an ill-fitting screwdriver will destroy the slot, causing a big problem!

Above the Starter Motor ... Under Carbs 2 & 3 is the Idle Adjustment Rod.
It has a Thumb Wheel on the end. Oil it.
You’ll need to be able to make highly precise adjustments without difficulty!

Turn the Idle Rod Clockwise a tiny bit at a time until the engine is running steadily.
Don't exceed 1,200 rpm’s
(1,050 if you can get it. 950 if the Tuning permits)

While the Engine’s running.
Begin the Tweaking.

Turn the Pilot Mixture Screw for #-1 OUT ... real S-L-O-W-L-Y.
Listen for the RPM's to INCREASE.
The revs should rise as you give the Mixture Screw turns OUT for more Fuel and AIR at the Pilot Screw.
This is Pilot Mixture for Idling.

Listen to the Engine very intently. The rpm’s are about to change.

When the revs rise here’s what to do...
Keep the RPM's at 1,100 by reaching under the Carbs and lowering the Idle Adjustment Knob. Stay close to 1,000 rpm’s at all times.

"Tweak" OUT ... the #-1 Pilot Mixture Screw listening to the Engine and Exhaust note VERY Carefully.

Keep turning the SCREW ~> OUT > IF < the RPM's continue to rise.

At some point ... The RPM's ~~> will NOT continue to rise.
Remember this Point. You have to come back to it.
At THIS point ... MICROSCOPICALLY continue the Turning OUT...

UNTIL <~~

The Mixture gets TOO RICH and the Bike:
Coughs
Misfires
Burps
Runs rough
Etc.

>> STOP <<

THEN <~~ Get ready to make a CRITICAL Adjustment.
Pretend you are about to move THE SECOND HAND on a STOPWATCH!
One FULL Turn would be 60 Seconds ... right?
OK.


Turn that Pilot Screw ~~> IN <~~

Two (2) Seconds ... maybe Three (3) (Degrees, small, a (my-nute amount)
Don't go too far.

Run fans to keep the bike cool.
Throttle it up and let it idle.

Adjust the IDLE rpm's with the Idle Adjustment ROD.
1,100 Max

Tweak #-2
Just exactly like #-1

(If the rev's exceed 2,000 ... back-off the IDLE SPEED ROD More)

Then finish-up doing #-3 -&- #-4.

When you are done ... TWEAKING ... you will need to Road Test for THROTTLE RESPONSE.

IF...

You are Idling, say, at a Red Light and when the light turns green and you take-off ... (Getting “Out-of-the-hole”) … and, …

The Bike ~> BACKFIRES a little bit before the Power comes on:
Your LEAN
The Pilot Screws need to be:
Tweaked OUT
Two (2) Seconds.
Chart where you are at from this moment on … +2 Seconds

IF...

You are at the light and take-off...
The Bike ~> HESITATES for the slightest bit before the Power comes on:
Your RICH
The Pilot Screws need to be:
Tweaked IN
Two (2) Seconds. (Almost not turning the screw at all. A nudge!)

Fine-tuning will be complete when you have Tweaked-Out the Backfire or the Hesitation during Further Load Testing.

All further Tweaking is to be done in increments of:

Two Seconds at a time.
Go find a closed Industrial Park and do it all in one sitting.
Have somebody put the tools you need in a sack and follow you over there in the car.
Don’t forget a Flashlight.

Backfire = Lean = OUT

Hesitation = Rich = IN

Go for it!

Get Tweaked
Watch your Plugs and treat each Cylinder individually.
Read the Color of the Plug on the Center Electrode’s Ceramic Collar.
Too Dark (Beyond chocolate brown) Tweak IN: 2-Seconds

Too Clean: (Clean or no coloration) Tweak OUT: 2-Seconds
As you Tweak individual Carbs for the right Mixture … Watch the Plugs coloration at the Center Electrode Ceramic Collar.

Clean:
Bad. Lean.
Tweak Screw OUT for MORE Fuel.
Although the Bike will run superbly Lean like that … it’s a dangerous condition that can HARM the Bike permanently.

Light Tan:
Lean but OK.
This is a Power setting.
The Mixture is burning Fast making big power. You’ll have fast acceleration with the Plugs a light tan.

You must monitor the situation and keep an eye on the Oil Level. If your Oil starts disappearing and you don’t have a leak … you are still too Lean.

Light Brown: Normal

Dark Brown:
Rich.
Most people like to have them at the Dark Brown Mixture setting. The Engine makes good smooth power and cruises really nicely, staying cooler than the Lean settings.

 

Rick's right; use can't use the ColorTune above idle; you'll just destroy it.

Everything above idle is going to have to be done with plug chops and then CAREFUL MONITORING of the plugs. It doesn't take very long between beginning to see little silver flecks on your insulator(s) and the aforementioned hole in a piston or two.

 

So the simple mod does not work without a rejet?
Wasn't that the whole idea of the simple mod?

 

i think it was to help a mid-range, lean flat area

 

I can´t understand why some of you are so negative?

I´m building a café racer and the standard airbox is out of the question, at the moment i´m using 2 K&N dual filters and of course suffering from the lean middle range.

These k&n:s have a built in "velocity stack" measuring about 30 mm, how long is the rubber connector part on generic/noname 4 to 4 pods?

If CV carbs are tunable with this mentioned mod +needle adjustment and a couple of jets this is exellent.

I´m waiting keenly for the results/pictures Wrench!

 

Being negative is not the end of the world. Sometimes people strive to prove the nay sayers wrong. And they then get the final say.

My negativity comes from experience and understanding of the carbs in question.
People seem to act like there is 2 circuits in the carb, idle jets and main jets.
There are progression stages that are tuned by more than one item, and the rise of the slide also interacts.

I believe you can fit pods and make some basic jetting changes to have the bike run acceptably.

I will stay skeptical on any 'simple fix will solve tuning hardships'

Don't complain about my attitude, prove me wrong.

Please.

 

I don't intend to be negative, but rather realistic. When someone says "grab a hammer for me" we all see the basic claw hammer. But then there are all sorts of hammers each designed to perform a particular type of work. Most of them will work for general hammering as well, but someone needing a ball peen hammer is going to find a dry-wall hammer a poor choice for the job. That is the situation I see here. You want a certain look for your bike and rather than getting that type of bike in the first place, you are trying to modify something to fit the bill which just doesn't work right. For whatever reason, the design of these carbs and motors is such that switching to PODs will throw off tuning and cause some areas to be too lean while other areas are right and still others are too rich, regardless to all the time and money spent to rejet and make other modifications. So rather than spending hours and hours along with a hefty chunck of money to try and convert the dry-wall hammer into a ball peen, why not just buy the ball peen in the first place and leave the dry-wall hammer for what it is made?

Just my view - YMMV

 

I love a lively disscussion....

Nothing is ever simple when you customise 8)

 

I tried before to steer you guys in the right direction. What is it that changes when you put put pod filters on your bike? What I can tell you is this does not work The person who started this has not a clue how these carbs work