SOLD --- $3500 All Original Cond 1985 Yamaha XJ700N Maxim

Seriously NEVER paint a car with Rustoleum. Also, for the price you pay getting all the stuff necessary to paint, you could buy a decent gun. Ive seen those results with the roll on. It seems like a waste of time and makes painting a much more of a painful process than it already is. I would only recommend doing a quick, cheap paint job for something you just want to sell to someone who doesnt care about how it looks. Learn what you need to know to paint,do it once, do it right, and be proud of your results.

I hate how a Charger was so cheaped out on.

 

You can see all of the different cars that have been roll painted by searching various key words. This is not intended to replace a quality paintjob (i.e. $10k plus, or even $2k). I would say that rolling a car, in general, is not intended for a nice car. Although, I have seen photos of incredible results. The charger… well he started it on the MOPAR thread, and I think did a great job. So much of the final outcome is based on prep work and patience and tenacity, that this is not a process for someone that wants a quickie. Not if you want good results. Although, about 15 years ago, a friend painted a whole car with a roller; this was a wham-bam, one day, one coat, just to sell roller paint job. To do what I did, including some bondo on the trunk lid, a local reputable bodyshop wanted $2,200. Cheapest I found was $1,500. Scew that! That was a bit unrealistic for me, being that my car as seen now would be worth $2,500-$3,000. My main problem was that I was not painting the whole car but just a portion. But, lucky for me I painted panels and then where the tops of the rear quarters are I taped where the pinstriping was (and will be again). I figured that if I really screw it up, I can always sand it back down and have someone shoot it professionally; that could easily be done for about $500 with all prep work done by me. Number one thing, absolutely first and foremost, is prep work. If the surface to be painted is not prepped right, no matter what your method of painting, your final result will be crap. This is where all of the labor costs come in to play when you drop your car off to get painted.

Cost me about $150 with everything because I basically had nothing:
- Interlux Brightside paint ($42)
- Primer
- Mineral spirits ($10)
- Penetrol ($9)
- Mason jars for storing mixed paint ($5)
- Mixing cups
- Sandpaper (400, 600, 1000, 1500)
- Foam brushes
- 3M Tape
- Silicone caulk
- 8 roller tray @ $2.19
- Paint rollers
- High density foam sponge rollers (2” and 4”)
- Plastic dropcoth for creating a make-shift booth to minimize dust (believe me, you think you cleaned your garage, but then dust comes out of no where)
- Etc.

Would I do it again. Well, maybe. The bad news is that I probably have 40+ hours into it. Hell just taping it off was about 4 hours, twice at that because of the so called Gloss Black Rustoleum that was not black at all. Maaco’s $300 will not get you any prep work, and they will tape things like a monkey. That crap GM factory clearcoat fading was making my car look like a rolling turd. Some people would not care… it was driving me nuts.

Ravenz07…
If you buy a spray gun, then you still need a descent air compressor, filters, airlines, etc, on top of everything mentioned above. If you are in an area like California, and you are spraying a car and the EPA finds out, have fun with that. A lot of these roller paint jobs are done in California from what I have seen on the internet.

 

That guy with the Charger said he had to spend a verrrryy long time smoothing that pain out. I have researched all this a very long time ago when I painted my first vehicle. I painted a 82 (I think) F150 Rustoleum Satin Black. It came out pretty nice, but now that I have used quality paint, I feel there is no reason to spend the time doing a lesser quality job.

 

I concur... knowledge is power.