Spark plug help.

I asked Chacal and he suggested I post this.

Can anyone tell if tiny white spots in plug photos are a concern?

Is it piston 'melt' from running too hot/ lean?
Spots are not visible to naked eye, they only show in magnified photo under bright light.

Other comments on plug color/condition?

Wet on the threads in photos not fuel, it is antiseize grease.

 

Looks like balls of aluminum to me.
Do you have any signs of leanness, such as popping on deceleration?

 

Do concur with K-moe looks like a lean burn condition. Open up mixture 1/4-1/2 turn. Over heated tip will cause that

 

Or to the twenty something youth they might be visible. Is it just one cylinder or do they all display the small spots?

Look a bit lean with no color change on the ground electrode, how many miles on the plug?

Polock seems to have a good eye for reading plugs, maybe he will comment to confirm k-moe's and Toomany's observation.

 

No popping on deceleration. Running really good.

About 1-2k on the plug.

They seem to be on all the plugs. I had a really bright light and flash to illuminate the picture, which emphasized them. Can't really see them with a magnifying glass and no strong light shining on them.

 

Think you might be running lean .. Used to have a chart by champion with pictures of plugs with condition don't know what happened to it , the manual has a chart in it I think. Another possible thing your synch could be off slightly.

 

I have referenced several charts of "plug reading" and they seem a little conflicting about how lean mine is running ('ok' or 'not ok').

https://www.tuningmatters.com/how-tos/beginners-guides/check-spark-plug-correct-carburetor-setting/

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug

http://s681.photobucket.com/user/gixxergirlK8/media/Service Documents/SparkPlugReading.jpg.html


To be honest, the bike is running so good, I hesitate to work on the carbs unless necessary.

I do think carbs are slightly out of synch, but not an overly "lumpy" idle. I plan on checking synch when I get a manometer.

 

take a read here https://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Reading Spark Plugs.html
keep in mind this is for 1/4 mile cars but most of it still applies.
it's saying if those are specks of AL, it's comming from detonation (maybe some bad gas?)
the ring they talk about, on some pics looks wet but the last one looks dry. did you wipe it off?

what i'd do is get new plugs and some premium gas from another station and have another look after a tank or two.
easy on that neverseize

 

Polock, I will give it a look.
Plugs all came out dry.
Last one is dry as it is a different plug. I took the picture before putting antiseize on it. Picture makes it look like more than I used because it melted.

 

Update.
I haven't bought new plugs yet, but did clean mine (the little specs disappeared). I also switched to a tank of premium gas. After half a tank, attached is a new photo of a plug. The rest are basically the same. No sign of little flecks, a bit more soot on the ring.

Thoughts on the plug read?

I plan to get new plugs and monitor over time burning premium.

 

That looks good, and is what you should be getting on low-test gas. You can run the 93 and mask the problem if you want.

 

but if detonation is the problem, what's the fix? maybe he just got some bad gas.
maybe go back to regular and check again. actually that didn't mask the problem, it fixed it

 

My best guess is that there is excessive carbon buildup on the pistons. A Seafoam treatment will break that up if the higher-test gas hasn't. I can go into greater depth about how to use the Seafoam (and alternatives) for that if anyone wants.

 

Sure why not? I have used Seafoam, not a lot - tell us what you know.

 

Thanks for the help from you guys, you are the best. Don't know what I would have done with the bike if it wasn't for you folks.

Most of my cycle driving is in town, so prone to carbon buildup I suppose.

I've alternated Seafoam and Mercury QuikCleen in just about every tank for the last 3 years. Just a couple of oz in each tank has sure kept passages clear of varnish. Should I use in the oil to break up carbon on the pistons?

It might also be running a bit lean after the years. However, I can't find any sign of air leaks using starter fluid, WD40 or carb cleaners around the boots , throttle shaft seals, etc..

The "plugs" for the mixture adjustment are still intact. Can someone direct me to instructions on how to drill out/remove the plugs and adjust the mixture? I can't seem to find any. I need pictures I may also break down for a Colortune plug.

I also bought new spark plugs last night. Thought about trying NGK B9 instead of B8 to run cooler with regular gas, or is that bad idea?

 

I don't have pictures but please allow me to paint with words.

Assuming you have the brass plugs in place.
If the plug is slightly raised from the body you can try using a knife to gently pry up on the edge, sometimes the press isn't that tight and the plug will pull out enough where you can use a pair of side cutters to grab it and pull up and out.

Otherwise find yourself a short sheet metal screw and a drill bit slightly larger than the 'shank/shaft' (non-threaded) part of the screw.

Slowly and carefully drill as close to the center of the plug about 3/16" deep. Care should be taken that the drill doesn't break through the plug, grabs on the flutes and drives itself into the head of your idle mixture screw.

Now take your screw (on mine I ground the very sharp point off of it so that the threads would bite into the brass plug sooner). Screw the screw into your drilled pilot hole until it grasps firmly.

Now grab a pair of pliers and twist/ wiggle while pulling up. My plugs came out rather easily.

Good luck.

P.S. Not sure if you can do that without taking the rack off . . . .

 

use about a 1/8 drill bit, no bigger. push it in the chuck as far as it will go, you only want enough bit sticking out to drill through two credit cards.
if the bit is too long stack something on the bit and adjust as necessary. 1/4 inch nuts work.

 

For removing carbon buildup, first get some vacuum line, and vacuum line T fittings. Make a 4-1 manifold out of the vacuum line.

Start and wam up the engine.

Slowly suck up either: Seafoam, or Automatic Transmission Fluid into the engine via the 4-1 vacuum manifold, until you see billowing clouds of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Kill the engine (or let it stall).

Let her sit overnight.

The next day go for a spirited ride, being sure to do several hard roll-ons (slow a bit, then accelerate hard, reepeat). Any carbon should be loose and will be blown out the exhaust in billowing black clouds.

Adding a normal dose of Seafoam to the gas tank beforehand will help the process, but is not absolutely necessary.

 

Thanks Stumplifter and Polock.
I just looked and mine don't have brass covers but some gray caulk like stuff. I tried to dig it out with a pick but it is stubborn.. I need to wait until I can work it better and not scratch up the brass screw underneath. I wonder if any kind of solvent would help? Could it have come from factory this way, or perhaps the one time a Yamaha dealer worked on valves and synching at 5k?


Turn left to rich, right to lean? Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn?

 

Yes.
Not sure about how far to turn, I use a colortune plug to tell me.
I think some one said to turn it a thickness of a dime, ride, recheck plugs.