Starter Clutch?

One thing I would check before splitting the cases is the alternator - is it possible there is major corrosion in there?
Have the cover off to have a look. After that, I'm afraid a squealing bottom end, eapecially if it stopped the engine sounds serious. Splitting the cases is not a step to be taken lightly though...

 

TDC can also be achieved by 'feeling' the highest point of #1 piston, using a screw driver in the spark plug hole and gently raising the pistons via the reluctor/crank.

 

Are there suitable dial gauges for this as the plug holes are at an angle unlike the two stroke zuki l had in the 1970's.

 

I reckon, okay I hate this acronym but IMHO (in other words I don't really know but I can't help but pretending I might), at the height of the piston the standard gauge would still show the maximum height, even at an angle.
I don't think it as big of an issue with a chain linked cam to crank mind you. One link either way is so far out of whack it wouldn't run.
With a distributor sans cams and using pushrods it is an electrical issue but with our bikes it's more of, if the cams are in the right tooth to the crank... Then it's electronic(TCI) or fuel. Caveat to the valves being seated and not bent etc.
But @jleove has said compression is 100ish across the pistons.
The squealing sounds I don't understand obviously.

 

I was thinking about side load on the dial gauge pin but the plug angle is not vertical but its still steep so l reckon you are right it would still be accurate.

 

Good to know. I thought as much, but wanted to be sure.

 

Different sound than this one. I have compression on everything. Wouldn’t this mean my camshafts are turning?

 

Yes cams are turning check the alternator as Minimuttly said.

 

With the transmission in neutral if you have the alternator cover off you can remove the plugs and turn the alternator bolt slowly anticlockwise doing that would turn the crankshaft but remember it may not because the starter clutch might have to turn faster for it to lock to the alternator shaft. You could also try and turn the alternator nut quickly with a socket and a hand held ratchet to see if it locks, you might need the starter off at the same time. Don't use an impact that will just remove the bolt. Just listened to your video again is the battery fully charged up?

 

I’ll try this and the battery is fully charged/brand new.

 

I stepped away from my bike for a while as we moved and I lost excitement as I finally had the bike running well before another issue popped up (explained above). I thought it was the starter clutch. I presume it wasn’t based on video sounds of the clutch slipping and explanations on this site.

I came back to the bike a week ago and checked spark, compression, and fuel. Everything checks out that it’s there except for it won’t fire up. Not even sputter.

I wondered if it was a timing issue as the next thing to check. I noticed that the cam dots aren’t lining up with the alignment marks, but I have two questions as I try to tackle the timing.

1. I have to guess a bit with my ‘t’ mark as the little tab is missing. Don’t love this, but try to line it up with the Center of the tab hole (see picture).

2. Do I have to pull off the camshaft caps to align them? I’ve pulled off the automatic tensioner, but there’s not enough slack to completely pull off the chain to rotate the cam. Any help would be appreciated.