Tank rust removal. No frills. Easiest. Fastest. Cheapest.

uhhh, I PAID for the wife's dryer, and she would definitely not be cool with it! Has anyone tried cider vinegar? I see it on youtube all the time and it seems to work pretty well...

 

It's the acetic acid that is the active ingredient there.

Still comes down to the use of acid, and if you're going to use acid, Phosphoric Acid is the way to go.

 

Didn't hurt my dryer. It was pretty quiet actually. To each his own I guess.

 

Interesting....

 

Now that I think about it... a laundromat might work out, too, if you go at an odd hour to avoid too many witnesses and walk in with the tank already wrapped in the blanket to keep suspicion down. Or wait until the wife is asleep, and don't go to bed without taking it back out. I put the valve cover in the dishwasher overnight and didn't stay up to take it out. She made sure all of Facebook knew about it the next morning.

 

HAHAHAHA, my wife would so do the same thing. I'm not sure I'd put an oily engine part in my dishwasher though.

 

The downside was that while it got the grease and oil just fine, the carbon soot was untouched. And the high heat made the aluminum oxidize a lot and it looked all gray. Not that that mattered too much, as I was sanding and priming it for paint later anyway.

 

If you use Cascade there won't be any spots.....

 

Maybe if I get that Orbit Gum girl to toss a pack in my tank, it'll clean up real nice.

 

Any suggestions for treatment afterward? Or is it safe to leave the inside of the tank unmolested after the gravel treatment? I was worried about flash rusting. Has anyone tried the gravel treatment followed by an electrolysis treatment with a quality sacrificial anode? Was wondering if electroplating after the majority of the rust is removed would be of any benefit...

 

I haven't done any of this yet, but my plan was to tumble it with the gravel, then clean it out with rubbing alcohol, blow it out with compressed air, then swish rust-convertor inside afterwards to get what the gravel missed. I think I want to add some kind of sealant, too, as the tank I'm working with has some damage along the seam. I'd be worried about it leaking if I don't.

 

Any rust convertor in particular? I was thinking of going through with the gravel method, and the finishing with one of the many products on the market to remove the remaining acid and then attempt to either re-plate or seal the inside.

 

I'll have to check again what it was, but I can tell you I picked it up at the local Ace Hardware. I think it was less than ten dollars.

 

you guys and your tank treatments! the rust converter i'am guessing is the white stuff that goes on like thick milk and turns black when dry. does it say it's safe for gas tanks? i'd test it for a week or so on something in a container of gas, just to be sure. For the tank liner, it might last forever but if it starts pealing off, your in a bad way. If your tank might be damaged, that's another thing. I know if i was to look at a used bike i'd rather see some rust than liner. And flash rust won't hurt anything at all. Now electroplate, that's kind of different. A copper plated tank would be the beans.
I'm done now

 

my 550 seca has a "professionally lined" tank and so far so good. got it that way a year and a half ago.

FU

 

Caswell epoxy liner. Folow the directions exactly. It will never peel or break down.

 

Noted and added to Amazon wish list. Thanks Moe.

 

Finally remembering to follow up on the rust convertor I mentioned. It's this:


Of course, once I use it, I'll report back with a review. Don't hold your breath, though. I don't plan on getting to it anytime soon.

 

My only fear is the gasoline getting to it...

 

that stuff has organic acid in it, be careful to not breathe the fumes or get it on your skin or clothing.

http://henkelconsumerinfo.com/produ...S&LANG=EN&COUNTRY=US&VKORG=3450&MATNR=1381192

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/S_TRMT_EXTEND_tds.pdf

FU