The Koolaid Project

Come do mine while you're at it. I'm attempting to avoid it at all costs right now

 

Ok, instead of just getting home from work, finishing up with the tank, installing it, and starting this bad boy up for a ride.....what do I do.....??

I pulled the carbs and I'm going to sit in the LR tonight, watch some UFC, and clean the carbs EXACTLY what I was trying to avoid, but the right thing to do. Actually the RIGHT thing would be to tear this whole thing down to the frame and do ALL of the painting right now. Since the plan is to hardtail it in the near/distant future I'll hold off on that urge though.

Ok... SO, taking the carbs off was a BITCH! I need some tips on the best way to get them back in there. I beat up the boots a bit in the process.... oops. I have a question about the doohickeys that connect the carbs to the engine (can't remember what they are called). One of the paper gaskets that was on them tore off. Can I just substitute with some silicone instead? Do normal auto parts stores (O'riley) carry them or am I f'd and have to order some. I REALLY wanted to get this thing together and running tomorrow morning before it has to hide in the shed until I confess to the wife that I bought it Her and the kids get home tomorrow around dinner time.

That's another reason I should just tear it down to the frame. Then she wouldn't be able to tell the difference between IT and the project I already had parts for

 

getting the carbs out is easy... for me taking them out takes like 4 minutes... its taking the clamps off that wastes time...

but getting them in... hoo boy!

something that helps, is if you take the air box boots and push them into the box, a lip holds them in place... you'll see what i mean when you do it.

and you're going to want to fix those intake boot leaks... or else you'lll never get it to ru right and it may blow up

 

but I should be able to just slap some silicone on it to seal it up, right?

Yeah, I was reading a lot about reinstalling carbs last night. I read that if you do it your way it's a BITCH to get the boots back out of the air box. The way I was GOING to try is to flip the end of the boots back on itself (inside out ) to make room for the carbs. Then after I get them in just flip the end right onto the carbs SOUNDS easy....right? hahahahaha

I'll be attempting the reinstall within the next hour. I need to just go with individual pods, new exhaust, and a stage 3 jet kit. I'll have to start saving up. I looked last night and the cheapest dynojet kit I could find was freakin $110. That's crazy talk

 

Ok, I got the carbs put back on. I don't know what some of you are complaining about. It really wasn't that hard. Just flip the lip of the boots that attaches to the carbs back over itself (inside out). Then slide the carbs in and to help get them seated in the intake boots spray some silicone on it (aka pledge ). They pop right in and then you just have to flip the air box boots back. They flip right around the carbs and poof.... you're done. EXCEPT for the part that takes the longest.... screwing in the little clamp doohickeys. Really relatively painless though.

Now I just got done touching up the paint on the gas tank and installing the pet cock and float. I'm going to give that about another hour to dry before installing it. I WOULD be able to fire up the bike, but it seems that the battery charger/tender I picked up the other day is SHITE! It doesn't do squat. I need to take it back. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

why havent i heard/thought of that method.

 

I don't know. I read it on here somewhere. I was going to do it the pushing back into the airbox method, but I pushed them in and saw how shitty it was trying to work them out WITHOUT the carbs in place, so I figured it would be a COMPLETE bitch with them in there.

With the boots nice and warm from washing them in hot water they flipped inside out a lot easier. I also read on here that some put them in boiling water to make them more plyable, but hot water was good enough for me.

 

alright... I pulled the battery from my 4-wheeler and hooked the auxilary tank back up to see how this thing is running now that I cleaned the carbs and checked everything out.... WELL.... at first I got it to idle GREAT! but with it like that if I just barely gave it any gas it would surge up to 5-6k, hang, and then come back down. POOP! I started messing around with stuff (not really familiar with any carbs other than the ones on my gsxr) and NOW I can't get it to idle, but it's not surging like it was. I need some help here.

Oh, and I seafoamed the gas and oil. I probably should have waiting, but I got excited

 

Oh...and here is the finished tank. I want to get the bike running right befor the tank goes back on though, so I need to get this crap figured out ASAP!

 

and here is a vid from when it was surging, but still idling fine. It looks like I'm twisting the throttle a lot in the vid, but I'm really just barely blipping it. It's just surging like a bastard. Hurry up and give me some advice here. The wife is on the way home from PA as I type. I only have about another hour or two before the Seca gets covered up in the shed

http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j147/ ... urging.flv

 

sounds like the carbs are out of synch by the description couldn't get the vid workin, search vacuum synch, you can make a tool or buy a gauge set, I bought one for 70 bucks.

 

I actually have a motion pro synch tool....just didn't look up how to use it for the XJ yet.... I'll have to do that tomorrow. The only problem might be that I couldn't get it to start back up when I went out to try again

 

Hook it into the mainfold boots, there are plugs on three and the petcock goes onto one of em, you have to run the bike on pri on the petcock to be able to get fuel there. They say synch carburator 1 to 2, then, 4 to 3 and then the screw below inbetween 2 and 3 controls both 1 and 2 to get the same as 3. Basically synch all to 3 as it is not adjustable, except by the idle screw wich ups em all. Got it? lol, pick up a haynes manual or factory manual, lots of info you can take to the bike and work.

 

Not to hijack your thread but you asked for it. 1 pair of XJ's

 

brawler - thanks for the info....

gameover - thanks for the pic. Is that a Nates bumper? I don't know too many people with one. I got mine off of a guy that picked it up for a buddy for like $240. I couldn't be happier since it's like 500+ on Nate's site...

 

It is a nate's bumper. I had seen them before. Wasn't paying $600 for it. Caught it on sale last year for $300. Couldn't pass that up.

 

No kidding... I love it. What did you paint yours with? I hit mine with Rustoleum ratter can bedliner along with the sides and back all the way up to the pinstripe under the door handles. I love it. Next is tacking the floor cancer, which I am going to spray with U-POL Raptor after it's fixed. If you've never used Raptor and ever have to bedline anything..... I HIGHLY suggest using it. It's $108 to your door in 2 days for the whole kit and it's tough as hell. I sprayed my TJ's bed with it before I sold it and picked up the XJ.

Love the flares by the way... I need to get some eventually.

 

Rustoleum rattle can. It's black hammer finish. Running 12.50's the flares are a must. I may recut the fenders soon and move them up. I can stuff a wheel into them if I try hard.

 

I painted mine with some semi gloss Krylon stuff at first, but it scratchd off WAY too easy, so I went with the bedliner. I love the finish of the rustoleum bedliner. Actually my XJ750 is getting painted with the same stuff. I finished up the tank yesterday.

 

What if I can't get the bike to idle anymore? How can I bench synch them, so that they are good enough to get the bike started and idling?