The Koolaid Project

Check your fuses...? Thats what happened when I broke down in Raleigh. I had a short in the system and kept blowing a fuse. Can't wait to see the beast on the road man. I was down your way last weekend, was headed to chaps bar on chicken foot, then got side tracked to dog house.

 

Yeah? Is chaps the one on chicken foot... just keep going past my house and it's way down on the right? I saw one down that way one time. Is it pretty small? I wouldn't mind meeting up with you for a ride/drink whenever you're in the area.

Yeah, I checked the fuses right away and they are all good.

I just found this thread and I'm reading through it now...

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... start.html

 

Yeha sounds like Chaps. Can't miss it, black and orange. Good luck man.

 

Ok, my starter button isn't grounding the circuit. I have it off right now here in the LR and I'm going to see if I can tell what's up with it. I took another wire to ground the blue/white wire going to the starter button and it turned over immediately.

Could be worse, right?

 

alright.. with the starter button fixed I'm trying to get the bike to idle again. When I had it running a month or two ago I synched the carbs and it was idling great, but not so much anymore. I couldn't get it to idle for more than 2-3 seconds. After playing around with the choke and idle adjustment I have it to where it will idle just fine, BUT I have to be giving it a little bit of choke and a little throttle. If I let off on either it sputters out.

Thoughts?

 

Oh, and I have fuel spillout out the airbox overflow tube if I leave it on for more than a few seconds. I'm still running off of the aux plastic bottle tank (IV looking dealio) and have an inline fuel filter.

The float levels should still be good. I think they're just sticking in there. I'm going to drop the bowls later and check that out.

 

I'd check the emulsion tubes, in the carb bowls, make sure they are empty and clear of obsturctions

 

yeah, they were CRYSTAL clear about 2 months ago or whenever that was that I cleaned the shit out of them, but I think I'm pulling them again later tonight after the wife goes to bed to give them a once over and bench synch again since they've been sitting and now it won't idle

 

Wow, holy neglect to reply! Sorry about that. The rear fender is stock, just relocated and holes welded shut. I fabricated the hardtail myself, and I'm using a HID GPS speedometer that projects the digital display down onto the tank from a custom bracket I made that hangs the unit off the handlebars. The tank is mostly satin black, but there is a gloss black section in a spade shape to reflect the image so I can read the speedo. The seat is a cheapo Bates style bobber seat from ebay.

 

I just wanted to add that when I got it to run the other day for a few min while holding the throttle slightly open the left pipe was hot, #2 was warm, but #3-#4 weren't even warm to the touch WTF does THAT mean?

 

usually it indicates that either #s 3&4 cyls are either super fat (rich) or arent fireing at all. All 4 pipes should be too hot to touch, at least a second time.

 

they ARE wrapped. #1 felt normal for just running for a min or two. The others worried me. I'm guessing I'm ridiculously rich. If they weren't firing at all it would sound all jacked up, right? When I DID have it running it sounded good.

 

are we talking about idle, or have you taken it out on a balls out banzaii run yet?

 

I have taken it around the neighborhood a few times, but not since it's current idling issue, so YES we're just talking about idle here.

 

with fresh plugs in it. the idle mixture can be all over the place but once you are over 4 grand or so on the main jets on a steady ride the plugs may unfoul, and once it idles down it may run like shix agian. Going by sound is difficult because 2 cylinders can miss 180* apart and it will sound find and be running on two dead holes. For a bench startting point I usually turn the screws gently in till they bottom then back out 2 1/2-3 turns each. mainly to make sure they are all set about the same. I use a very fine wire as feeler guages (like a stripped wire bread wrap) to make sure all of my throttle blades are in sinc (more or less) while the carbs are off. and if one cyl is drasticly leant like some dirt or misc craps (a dice game in vegas) it will usually clear out as the mixture screws are backed out. It it does then their is either a restriction in the idle circuit or camaged screws, conversely, if the mixture screws run better screwed all the way in, then either the screws or the seats they screw into are screwed.

 

yeah, I prefored a bench synch and then synched them with a gauge and it was running fine. Then it sat for a month or two and now this problem. I'm planning on pulling the carbs again on Monday or Tuesday and doing it all over again. Bench Synch, clean them a bit while they are off, get it to idle, and then synch with my gauge again.

I used 3x5 cards for my bench synch before and it seemed to work pretty good.

 

On mine #s 1, 2 &4 are slaves to #3 you set the pitch of the throttle blades, like I said but the thumb screw on #3 adjusts the idle speed of all four simutaniously. so do it last. with a bench setting the idle spleed will proably be way, way off. don't be tempted to screw around with the idle speed screws on 1,2 & 4 once you think they are in sync, without yics blocking tools getting them all even with #3 is the best you can do, use the thumb screw on #3 to set your final idle speed. so all four throttle blades are in line at the same time before you try and tweak your mixture screws, OK? (that also means yu have to take the carbs off first before you adjust the throttle blades before you have a chance at getting close without the correct tool)

 

If one or two seem drastically lean and it is idling fast too, the carb to cyl head boots could be cracked causing a vacum leak. I give mine a little coat of silicone on the outsaide with my finger tip everytime I wrestle with them. I also use a VW type one (bug) inline fuel filter to keep contaminants ouit of my carbs.

 

I think wire works better because the cardboard takes up a wider of area, I think a match book cover is supposed to be about .017" in thickness but wire is the same all the way around. I used .028 but had to turn the idle speed way down after I got it started. but like I said on the hitachis at least #3 adjusts all 4 of them at the same time.

 

also, check to see if the float pivots are binding on the pins (hinges) that'll make it run way off too.

 

thanks for all of the info. I'll post up my success or failure

 

good luck, while your at it, get an ohmmeter and unscrew your splark plug lead resistors and measure them for excessive resistance. I had a bad one and it felt like a lean miss at full throttle.

 

WAAAAALLLLLAAAAHHHH!!!!! Today I decided to just say f*** it and tear out the stock air box. I got that out, removed the carbs, and took them back apart. Guess what I found??? After just sitting a month or two after a THOROUGH cleaning the emulsion tubes were REALLy gummed up with some green goo shite and carb 4's float was completely stuck. The pivot was a bit rusty adn it wasn't moving freely at all. They are soaking right now. The plan is to clean them and paint the carb tops tonight durning the football game. Then first thing tomorrow I'll slap them back together with some bigger jets from a kit I got awhile back to compensate for the pods I'll be installing now. I got those months ago as well. Hopefully i'll have it ready for a test ride by lunchtime tomorrow.

I ALMOST got the airbox out clean without incident JUST as I was popping it clear to get it out the f'er cracked. the damage isn't bad and can easily be fixed, so if anyone wants a cheap stock airbox hit me up and make me an offer. I can send pics.

Also, now that the air tube or whatever isn't going to the air box what do I do with that hole in the motor? Where can I get a filter for that or do I just plug it, run a tube to nowhere.....what???

at least I've taken a leap in the right direction. I'm SO f'n glad that they ended up being all gummed up after all. Saves the headache of tracking the problem down any further. WWWOOOOOHHHHOOOOO!!!!! what a good night. I got a guy making me some brackets for my other bike and found a local guy to tig weld them for me, so I can install the subframe.

Oh, and I ordered my 50" tv for the man cave. It was a MUST now that I got direct tv and Sunday ticket. No more kids running around while I'm trying to watch football and now I can watch more than 2 Eagle's games a year. It's good to be me today

 

except now I'm broke and there are a few other parts I'm looking at for the XJ

 

I am about to pull the trigger on a tv as well, but fear being broke.lol. That hole you speak of that had a hose to the airbox, you can find a dandy little jem of a filter at advanced auto that will pop right on there for 10 bucks and they even come in different colors.

 

best buy has a deal going on for a 48 inch 1080p for like 450 or 500 i think, and i pretty sure its best buy

 

what is this "Dandy" little filter called or what do I ask for? I'm going to O'riley's tomorrow and can swing by Advanced or Auto Zone as well if they don't have it.

If you are seriously looking at TV's and not sure where to get it I got mine from Amazon Warehouse for QUITE a bit less than I could find it anywhere else. warehousedeals.com I got the Samsung 50" plasma and it came out to around $800 shipped. Not too shabby since I paid more for my Samsung 43" plasma that is in my living room about 4 years ago that was refurbished. I love Samsung. I had it narrowed down to the 50" plasma from there or the Samsung 52" LCD from a best buy affiliate that I can't think of right now for about $20 more. I went with plasma, because I read that it is better for fast paced shite like sports and that is the main reason I got the TV, so .... no brainer. Shipping isn't the fastest though... going to be here until the 18th, so I won't have it for this upcoming weekend when I have off. I work the following weekend, so I won't get to test it out on a Sunday until the following week, which isn't until the 31st. Oh well.... at least I got it

 

48" ??? Are you sure that wasn't for a 40-42" I saw that. I didn't really want anything less than a 50" soley for the reason of watching the game tracket channel or whatever it's called on direct tv that shows you 8 games at once. I live on that channel during the 1 o'clock games, then switch to the red zone channel for the 4pm games, so I can following everything..... UNLESS the Eagles are playing. When they are on I just watch them and only switch to the other channels when it's a commercial.

OK, Done watching Dexter with the wife, so it's off to the garage to pick up the game in progress and work on the carbs. I need to decide what color to go with for the carb caps. It's either going to be silver or metallic red. Not sure yet..... any votes on that? I'm not sold on what I'm doing with the pint on the tank and fender yet either. It was going to be bedliner with some metallic red accents, but then I changed my mind to either silver or raw metal just clear coated. advice....ideas?

 

If there was rust in the carbs, and the gas turned to gum there was probably water in the gas. Gas mixed with water can turn into a gelatinos goo and stop everything up. Be carefull of chemicals yu may be putting in the tank, like ethonal, mek or acetone. THey'll eat up all the rubber parts, like the float valves and the valve under the tank (we get censored for saying percock) that turns on prime, run and reserve. It comes off though. You can rinse the non rubberized parts in gummout and let them all air dry good, before putting it all back together.
Remember if you are deleting the airbox make sure you put a breather filter in the place where the hose comes from the crankcase, like street brawler suggested. It routed to the airbox so the crankcase could only breathe filtered air, The engine will wear out quickly with one. Auto Zone, O'Reilys' Pep Boys etc.
I am going to send you a pm, you may have a part I need. good luck!

 

Thanks for the info padre. I'll be looking for the pm. I'm SUPPOSED to be in the garage right now watching the game and cleaning up the carbs that are soaking, but I'm on here and sitting with the wife while she watches f'n "Sister Wives" before going to bed. So gay....

I'll clean up everything good, let it all dry out real good, put a filter on the crankcase breather, and all that jazz...

 

oh, and no worries about the "pet bird" valve yet. I'm still running on the aux tank and was holding off hooking up the actual tank until I got everything else ironed out. I redid the SECA tank and lined it with POR-15, but have since decided to go with the MAXIM 750 tank, so that still needs stripped and lined. I already got the POR-15 kit for it, but have been putting off doing it. Once I get this bad larry idling good it will light a fire under me to finish up the tank.

 

Bad Larry? Ok whatever. I also got tired of cleaning out my carbs of sand and sediment so I spliced a VW type one fuel filter (68 bug to be exact,) into my fuel line between the tank and the carbs. The inlet and outlet are tapered, (VW didn't use hose clamps on it) and fit just like it is supposed to be there between the #1 carb hat and the bottom of the tank.

 

you don't like "bad larry"? Would you prefer bad mamma-jamma?

 

MoFo, bad MoFo.

 

Alright... I did a quick cleaning on the carbs, but when I attempted to use the jets that I got from 6 Sigma off of ebay they don't queite seem to fit. I didn't want to force them, so I just put the old ones back in. It's like the threads are just slightly off. That will have to do for now, but it will need to be readressed down the line.

I am waiting for the carb tops to dry overnight and then first thing in the morning I'll slap the tops back on and get them installed on the bike and see if it fires up (fingers crossed).

 

watch your plugs close. With pods and exhaust mods you will be lean. Possibly damaging stuff lean. Maybe ok at idle but riding will be lean. You can shim the needles with 4mm washers until you find jets. It may take both jets and shims.

Len has the jets of course.

 

Ok, I'll toss two shims in for now. I have 120 and 40's in right now. Is that stock?

I don't know what the other jets are called, but they are 220 and 80. I forget which goes where. I THOUGHT I knew last night, but I think I turned the carbs around making left right and right left, so then I confused myself. If was 3am and I was too tired to remember I tried looking it up then, but passed out.

 

Those jets seem incredibly large, but what do I know. The litle filter is an apc brand comes in a plsatic package, looks like a little pod filter. It is a dandy jem indeed. I am looking into a 65" DLP mitsubishi tv I think I might just get it.

 

how much for the 65" if you don't mind me asking?

Still can't find the info on the othter jets and I don't want to finish putting them back together and attempt to fire her up until I do... poop

If the 120/40's seem large then that's good for me with the pods, right? The jet kit I got from 6 Sigma came with 130, 132.5, and 135's. I never even opened the package until last night. I've had them for months. I thought they jipped me, because there were only 2 jets of each size. Then I read the directions and it says to put bigger jets in the outer carbs. So, if you go with 130's on the outside you put 132.5's on the inner carbs. If you're still lean then bump up to 132.5's on the outside and 135's on the inners. Does anyone else have their bike jetted like that? My gsxr with K&N pods just has the same jets across the board.

 

streetbrawler if there's a bigscreenstore near you check them out. They had the mitsu's for $2k and a free 42" LCD or plasma I forget.

Koolaid with jets that size you may not need to rejet! You may be rich. I went from a 110 to a 114 main fuel jet and have a stock pilot jet and 1 shim. The upside to shims is you don't have to remove the carbs to install.

On the bottom the big jet (120 in your case) goes in the center where the needle comes down.

On the top the small jet goes above the big fuel jet the big jet goes above the small pilot jet. The Haynes manual has them backward.

 

Now that you posted while I wrote the above....

I have the same jets all across mine.

Oh and I bought a 50" plamsa Panasonic Viera a couple weeks ago because my RCA rear projection took a crap. I wanted bigger but my house it only 16' wide!

 

SWEET! I'll go make sure I have them in correctly in a min. I was straight on the pilot and main jets. The other two were the ones I couldn't remember.

Hey, I just realized that you have a 650, so you SHOULD have smaller jets. I think mine are just stock.

 

Right. Per Chacal's catalog the 120 main is stock for yours.

 

hahahahaha.....NICE! I took a bunch of shit from the wife about it being too big. She says it's going to look ridiculous up there. I only have a 43" samsung in the LR downstairs, because it's above the fireplace mantle and the mantle it too f'n high....that's the biggest that would fit. I MIGHT be able to squeeze a 46 up there, but it would prob look goofy. I wanted to lower the mantle, but the wife said no.

OK....looking at the jets I'm still confused. on the top there are 3 holes. Jets go in two of them. Which one goes in the center hole....220 0r 80?

 

One hole is for the screw that holds the cover plate on.

Found this:

The smaller air jet goes in the middle hole under the diaphragm.
The larger air jet goes toward the front under the diaphragm.

Which would make the screw holding the cover plate go in the back hole.

 

I meant the 200 mains sound big. 120 40 is stock for the 750. I run 132 main and stock pilot for now but was gonna go with a 42. The larger number is the main wich is the taller post with the jet in it looking at tthe bottom.

The 65" is 1449 with stand shipped from shop nbc, not sure if it is worth, what you guys think of dlp. 1080p 120hrz with 3d ready. It almost sounds too good to be true.

 

good deal man..... thanks. I'm going out to work on the bike right now.

 

oh, yeah 200 mains would be ridiculous. the 220 is one of the jets under the diaphram. I know what what main and pilot jets are and where they go and everything... just wasn't sure about those under the diaphram. I'm straight now....

I had a 52" Samsung DLP about 6 years ago and loved it. We didn't have room for it when we moved here though, so it had to go. The picture was great, but the only reason I won't go back to DLP is because the color wheel and light don't have a long enough lifespan for me and they are expensive to replace. My color wheel went out in the first 3 months I had it. It was still under warranty, so I was ok, but it would have been like $200-$300 to fix, so I'm sticking to Plasma/LCD now.

I know where you can get a 52" Samsung LCD for under $800

 

Oh ok oops, my bad.

I am still not sold on any TV. Where did you get yours again. I hate the fact they only would last 5-7 years tops.

 

I got my from Amazon Warehouse (warehousedeals.com)

I got the carbs and back on the bike. I LOVE how easy it is to get the carbs off and on without the airbox. I won't dread doing it now. When I was hooking up the battery I accidentally touched the ground to the + on the starter relay and CRAP... shorted something out. I found two fuses blown, but something else is still keeping it from starting... I was so close too....hahahahahaha