Top end rebuild (Stuttering, Elec. Issues Prior) (Pic heavy)

Message member Chacal here on the forums, or click the "XJ 4Ever" link at the top of the page. He'll have everything you need.

The only other thing you should look at when you have the bodies separated is the fuel rail between the carbs. Just like the shaft seals, the rubber on the fuel connectors starts to disintegrate.

 

XJ 4 ever .... Len has the seals, just click the logo at the top for a catalog and go shopping. Good prices, fast shipping, he'll see you right and knows these machines inside out. You'll learn a heap just from reading his Information Overload Hour.

These seals are not hard to replace but it does involve completely dismantling everything and there's alot going on in there so use your digital camera and some sort of storage system. I use clear see-through plastic take-out containers with clip on lids. You can see what bits are in them and write on the top with a Nikko marker what carb number they came from.

Don't even think about a carb rebuild without doing these.

 

The pilot screw o-rings, "beanie" screens, and float valve seat o-rings (if you didn't already.) Also check the condition of the rubber seals in the bottoms of the enrichment plungers.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

Plus, as Andrew pointed out, "fuel rail" components as needed (o-rings, plastic "tee" fitting, etc.)

MAJOR CONSIDERATION REGARDING MIKUNI THROTTLE SHAFTS:

Unlike the Hitachis, the Mikunis butterfly plate screws are peened on the backside to keep them from coming loose. You will need to carefully (VERY carefully) file the peened-over part off the back of the screws in order for them to be removed without chewing up the shaft. You need a small sharp precision file for this.

I also strongly suggest investing in the correct JIS screwdriver (Japanese phillips screws AREN'T phillips screws) for removing the butterfly screws. REPLACE the screws, and be sure to use Loctite when installing the new ones.