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trying to put my carbs back on

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by boomer, Feb 2, 2009.

  1. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Lower 48 in general. Otherwise Central Mitten.
    You deffinately have boots #2, & #4 crossed up. Look at the taper from the top of the bike. The intake boots should line up like the following.

    From the top lookin down:\\ //
    Mounting bolt holes from the rear of the bike looking forward: // \\

    This will align the intake boots so that all vacuum spigots point direct upward, and yes. The vacuum tap for the petcock is generally on the #3 carb. This may vary with bike model though. No critical issue with this.

    Ghost
     
  2. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Actually on his 650 seca they are \ \ \ \. Most other bikes are as you describe. That's how he was able to get 2 and 4 switch and all of the vacuum ports facing the right direction.
     
  3. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    Oh and use a proper clamp for that vacuum line will ya? You don't want it to leak and throw off yer tunin'
     
  4. pauldale999

    pauldale999 Active Member

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    *************************LATEST*****************************

    Got the carbs back on! Switched #s 2 and 4 manifold inputs, (so that ALL the manifolds pointed INWARD towards the carbs.)

    Popped #4 on, and the other three, after a bit of persuasion, popped on in turn - 3, 2, 1.

    Tightened clamps on these, and then proceeded to put air filter to carb boots on......not so easy....

    Decided to install them individually, just squash each one up, wrestle into position, push back thro' air filter hole past 2nd lip, put in line over carb mouth, then pull back out, line up marker, and pop over carb mouth.
    Found out the hard way, that best to install 2 and 3 first, and tighten clamps, then 1 and 4. (3 was a PITA because its next to the enrichment circuit cable and holder/spring clamp, - but I sorted it)

    Only other problem I had was had to remove one or two, to reposition the clamp, so the tightener bolt was accesible for screwdriver - there' hardly any room, once the clamp is in position, over the carb mouths, because of the top rack holder etc....!!

    Anyway, that's that, and have now restarted machine, and the thread for that, I am just about to add to my ongoing one - "high idling in operating temperature"

    Thank you again everyone, for all your help to get my carbs back on!
    Regs
     

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