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TURBOCHARGED MAXIM 650 BUILD

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by farmer, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. farmer

    farmer Member

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    Finally Some long awaited updates:

    We are getting close to being able to fire this thing. Totally rebuilt the carbs last weekend.

    I need my custom stainless braided lines made up for the oil cooler, fill the case with oil, and it should be close to being able to perform a test fire. After successfully test firing I will then complete the last pieces to getting it running, The air intake piping for the turbo, The charge piping from the turbo to intercooler to plenum, and the exhaust. Then we can see how this thing reacts to boost from a GT15 turbo from a VW TDI with VNT control on the vanes. I hope to be able to spool up and get that front wheel off the ground in 1st gear.

    Onto the pics:

    Turbo petcock mount plate welded onto a 750 maxim tank...

    One pic of the proposed wastegate and air filter placement.

    Another of just the bike sitting out in the snow.

    And finally a pic of the key/cluster. For this what I did was I used a maxim X/700n triple tree and forks and my stock key/ignition. Unfortuately what this did was angle the key so that the steering lock no longer works. Does anyone know if i were to get a maxim x/700n ignition assembly would it fix my steering lock issue.

    I want to do a custom dash plate with FZR gauges, but my one problem is that I am from Canada, and I am having trouble locating a FZR cluster with KM face. I suppose I could always swap to this later.
    On antother note, does anyone know if the FZR fuel gauge is compatible with the Maxim 750 fuel gauge sender?
     

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  2. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    That looks a beast, love what you're doing & will be following the build. Maybe your best bet for KM/H clocks would be Ebay Australia? They seem to get a lot of Japanese imports over there so probably more KM clocks there?
     
  3. farmer

    farmer Member

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    Temp exhaust, for now. Will redo with mandrel bends and stainless.
     

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  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    That Slash-cut for the exhaust might be easier on your left foot if it was extended beyond the foot-rest.
     
  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I guess it's just a "I wanna do it myself" kind of thing, but I'm wondering why you didn't start with a 650 turbo engine to begin with?

    Dave F
     
  6. farmer

    farmer Member

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    I did start with a turbo 650 engine. Just upgrading/ replacing all inferior components.

    The exhaust again is just temp until I get it going good. If anything will make for a loud foot warmer.

    Did some work today on making the carb mounted choke , using a locking choke plunger from a Yamaha yz80.
     
  7. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Oh, ok.......somehow I missed that. Cool.

    Dave F
     
  8. farmer

    farmer Member

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    Update:

    intercooler mounted. Dont know where else to put it, at least its inside the crash bar...

    now to make custom end tanks. also had to cut off the outlet on the compressor and weld in a tight 90 bed to get it to work in that location.

    More updates next week. Getting close to firing.
     

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  9. Foolber

    Foolber Member

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    In an Igloo, on Jupiter¿
    pure awesome ness.
     
  10. biggyfaction

    biggyfaction Member

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    Can't wait to see how this turns out. i hope you make videos of sound and a ride along. :)
     
  11. farmer

    farmer Member

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    oh there will be both.. Im very excited to hear it just idle with that exhaust....

    Also, i tested the VNT with my air hose. With the vanes open and my air compressor nozzle blowing into the exhaust input side of the turbo, the turbine does not spin. Close the vanes (wastegate arm) and the turbine starts to spin.. all with a air hose at 60 psi pressure. Can't wait to see how it spools with 650cc's of hot air entering it.
     
  12. farmer

    farmer Member

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    Intercooler end tank update.....last nights work..
     

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  13. Isaacson06

    Isaacson06 Member

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    looking good so far ill have to post a vid of my 81 xj650 non turbo that i turbo charged and fuel injected took it to the track last year but now im redoing some things i didnt like last year are getting redone im using the same intercooler but i dont have a front fender so mine clears the forks. If you need any help just ask ive been down this road lol
     
  14. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    What the eff is FrankensteinHappenin here.....
     
  15. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    You have pretty much blocked off all the cooling airflow from the front of the engine, and replaced it with a big heat pump. I would be curious just how long it takes to cook the rings in cylinders 2 & 3.

    The oil cooler is a good idea. Except that the feed, and return lines are routed along side the exhaust pipes. Overall effect. Hotter oil!

    Get rid of all that excess heat to give it a chance.

    Ghost
     
  16. farmer

    farmer Member

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    Hi MiGhost,

    Regarding blocking off all the cooling airflow: Doesn't the stock bike have 4 large exhaust pipes sitting infront of the engine? While I agree there is slightly more area being taken up by the turbo, I dont see this as significantly impeding airflow to the point of overheating. Its not blocking the cooling fins, and there is quite a bit of air gap between the turbo and the block. I do however agree that the turbo will generate more heat than the stock exhaust pipes. Some things to mitagate this could be, a ceramic coated header and turbo exhaust section as well as a turbo heat shield blanket. Ive also seen other air cooled bikes with their turbos where mine is (some xj1100's) and they dont report any issues.

    Regarding the oil cooler, dont the stock lines run parallel to the exhaust pipes? Therefore allowing more heat into them. In my setup, they only cross perpendicular to the #4 header. Which I suppose could be re-welded to give more clearance. If heat becomes an issue, the other thing that could be done is to add heat sheilding around the pipes where they are closer to the lines. I suppose if this fails then I could move the oil cooler out opposite the intercooler onto the other crash bar.

    I appreciate the feedback.
     
  17. farmer

    farmer Member

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    update: tried to fire the bike to see if it would even pop. So i put some gas in the cylinders and tried cranking. Nothing. Tried this several times. Then did a compression check all were around 140, one was 70, but I am guessing that will come up once the engine has ran for the first time... It should have still popped or fired once but not even a bang.

    The carbs didnt have any fuel in them, maybe that is why so I will try that this week sometime. However it should have fired. I checked that i had spark (well as good of spark as the stock coils allow).
     
  18. 750E-II_29Rbloke

    750E-II_29Rbloke Active Member

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    How much gas did you put in the cyinders? I'd be worried about a bent rod in the 70psi cylinder :?

    On the oil cooler, yes our oil pipes do run past the headers. Carl's theory was good but in practice we don't have a problem since the oil cooler disperses far more heat (through greater surface area) than the pipes could ever collect even if they ran against the headers.

    Same with the engine cooling, once on the move air will be moving too fast & in too great a volume to affect the temperature of the air reaching the fins to a degree that'd cause problems.

    I'd consider at least fitting dyna coils for a turbo build, the stock coils aren't the best as you know, and you want the most powerful spark you can get in a forced induction application (personally I'd have built a megajolt box to run (for example) a Ford EDIS-4 coil pack, those things are powerful enough to make leads explode!)
     
  19. farmer

    farmer Member

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    lets get it running first, then perhaps a jolt or two.

    no, this isnt my first time gassing cylinders. I think its probably a stuck ring as the engine has been sitting for who knows how long. Just want to see if it can fire. Will try adding gas to carbs and cranking over.
     
  20. farmer

    farmer Member

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    well it ran.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MB9JWyH ... j6MyTHwOAA

    now i need to finish up the charge piping, hook up the fuel pump relay, test the petcock on the 750 tank to ensure no leaks and it should be getting close to being able to go for a drive. Also the oil you see leaking is the oil return from the turbo not being hooked up. THe turbo 650 low oil level sensor is backwards to the 650 gauge light and will need to be swapped. THe light is on when the oil level is OK and goes out once it drops to the low level.

    One problem I did run into is that i have zero vaccum at idle. I only get 15 inches when its coming down from being revved, at idle nothing....
    What i did is tap into the nipples on each of the boots between the carb and engine. i connected a vacum line to the left 2 carbs t'd them with a brass T, then did the same to the other 2. I then took thoes 2 lines and T'd them once more and connected directly to the vaccum gauge. Not sure why there is no vaccum reading. Any ideas?
     

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