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Valve clearance check!

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by wazimoto, Mar 18, 2013.

  1. wazimoto

    wazimoto Member

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    First of all, shout out to bigfitz and chacal or else I wouldn't have even thought about attempting this myself.

    My bike is an '82 xj1100, so the specs are as follows (per chacal's printout that nicely accompanied my valve bucket holder tool)
    Valve clearance intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm (=0.004'' - 0.006'')
    Valve clearance exhaust: 0.21 - 0.25mm (=0.008'' - 0.010'')

    Here are my measurements:

    Cyl #1
    Intake: 0.06mm - good, 0.08mm - no good.
    Exhaust: 0.18mm - good, 0.20mm - no good.

    Cyl #2
    Intake: 0.10mm - good, 0.13mm - no good.
    Exhaust: 0.18mm - good, 0.20mm - no good.

    Cyl #3
    Intake: 0.13mm - barely good, 0.15mm - no good.
    Exhaust: 0.18mm - good, 0.20mm - no good.

    Cyl #4
    Intake: 0.05mm - good, 0.06mm - no good.
    Exhaust: 0.15mm - barely good, 0.18mm - no good.

    SO, as far as I understand; the only valve that is for sure in spec is cyl#3 intake. My cyl #2 intake could possibly be in spec since .10mm passed, but the .13mm did not so it is somewhere between .10mm and .13mm.

    My cyl #4 intake seems like it was scary tight 8O (cyl#1 intake wasn't much better..) so I took a picture of the lobes' position as i was taking the clearance measurement just for fun, pictures are always fun to look at right?
    [​IMG]

    Also, I turned the cam a bit back and forth between attempts to make sure it was as close to a 90 degree angle with the shim when the attempt was no good to make sure I had the largest clearance possible.

    I suppose I am just looking for some verification that my cyl#3 intake is the only valve that was in spec.
    Also wondering how bad my cyl#4 intake was, if burning a valve was not too far around the corner with a clearance like that?

    Sorry I do not have the shim sizes yet, it's still quite cold in MN and my garage has no heat!! Thawing out for now, i'll be back in the garage in a bit.

    Thanks for any input!! (And sticking with this lengthy post, I just like to include as much info as possible 8) )
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It does appear that #3 intake is the only one solidly IN spec.

    Yes, a burnt valve was definitely just around the corner, with #4 running dead tight or nearly so.

    I'm curious about your go-no go measurements and the large jumps in feeler sizes. Are you using an Imperial (American) feeler with metric equivalents on the blades; or a true metric feeler gauge (one with evenly metric-sized blades?)
     
  3. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    You could have combined your 0.08 mm gauge and your 0.03 mm gauge to give a total of 0.11 mm, then combine the 0.09 and 0.03 for 0.12 mm. just to make sure your #2 intake is in specs or not.
     
  4. wazimoto

    wazimoto Member

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    I thought the go/no-go was the method was the one to use with the feeler gauges?

    And yes I am using an imperial set with metric equivalents on it :?


    Quebecois, I guess I didn't think of doing that, with oil in between the feelers I felt it wouldn't be quite accurate. Although using the combo of two feelers to get a .12mm, and getting it to fit, would mean it was at least .12mm since it would be a little larger than a .12mm feeler..
     
  5. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    If you worry about the oil film thickness, just wipe it off the blades before you take the measurements, then re-oil them before you store them back.
     

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