Water in Engine

Shank,

Any up-dates on the build?

Roc

 

Actually yes, I dug up my stud extractor and went to work on removing the broken cylinder stud. Alas, the extractor gripped that stud so tightly. That now it won't let go. So the good news is, the broken stud came out the engine cleanly. The bad news is, now the stud is stuck in the stud extractor.

 

When it rains it pours eh? Pretty much the story of that bike's life!

Love the project Shank!

 

Shank, score the stud with your dremel to relieve tensil strength. The extractor should come out. Sometimes we just need to be reminded of things we already know. Roc

 

Not sure what you mean, where do you score the stud, and how would it help?

 

Score it down the sides along the hole you drilled to put the stud extractor in. It will weaken the stud.

 

Exactly^.

 

I believe that there is some confusion. Ya'll are thinking easy-out, but Bigshank used a stud extractor.



The only way I know of to get a stuck stud out of one is to run the stud back into a threaded hole (one that you don't plan on using again) so the extractor can be turned to loosen it's grab on the stud.

 

This.

My other thought, as the stud is wasted anyway, is to chuck the stud into a bench vice and break the extractor loose. Same basic principle as the throated hole.
I have been out of town since thursday, so I will try and get back into this today, but I've got some pressure washing to do around the house today.

 

Shank, that'll work. Sorry bout that man. I need to slow down and pay attention to what's being said. Roc

 

Work continues.
I did manage to work the stud out of the extractor, but I couldn't get it to grab any of the other studs so I moved on to other things.
I pulled the clutch basket, and began loosening the numbered case bolts per the sequence given in the manual

Then I inverted the engine by skewering the cylinder studs into a milk crate and flipping it over

This revealed the hidden pockets of sludge and goo that remained in the cases

This also, however, gave me access to the case bolts on the underside, as well as the oil pan

 

Forgot to remove the bearing retainers behind the final drive sprocket. Luckily I have a big torx set from working on my Jeep so this was an easy task.

Quick question, for splitting the case is it necessary to remove the final drive sprocket? The manual doesn't indicate that it is.

Also, as I am closing in the final steps of engine disassembly, I have been a little let down by not having had trouble with JIS screws. Seriously, everything I read leading up to this engine tear down was doom and gloom about stripping out the JIS screws, and I didn't lose a single one. Then again, I am not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

 

Chugging along now. With all 39 case bolts individually bagged and tagged, splitting the engine was a simple task. Really, there is a ridge on the rear of the case for prying (no mating surface to mar), and it popped right apart. Everything on this engine has been super easy to deal with.



I then made a layout for the crank bearing shells and bagged the lower ones

wiped some of the oil out of the lower case


Then it was on to the transmission in the upper case half


Remember what I said about everything being easy to deal with? And how I haven't had any problems with JIS screws stripping?

Dammit.

 

you have a hand impact driver? i bet you can still get that

 

Yeah, that's my plan, but it'll have to wait until tomorrow. The wife called me in for dinner, so now I am fat and tired.

 

So.... you are going to keep screwing around and turn this thing back into a motorcycle. Not soon of course, but someday...... Still having fun?

 

I am seriously pissed now.

 

Get a good closeup of the fastener please. It might still be DYI salvageable. If not then it's off to the machine shop.

 

Each one snapped below the screw head, so removing the ez-out wasn't an option. I slotted both screws (yup, there's two) with my Dremel, knowing full well it would damage the bearing retainer, the end result being that it twisted the blade of my impact driver's slotted head. So yeah, it looks like I will get to spend my first $$$ on this project at a machine shop.
Funny, you'd think an oil town like Houston would be littered with machine shops, such is not the case...

Edit: thats a joke, you cant swing a dead cat in this town without hitting a dozen machine shops, but they all specialize in oil field work and won't mess with something piddly like an MC engine.

 

In perusing the numerous machine shops in town, and Houston being a oil town there are many, they all pointed me to a specialist who will electrically disintegrate the bolts for about $125/pair. I was worried it would be much more expensive. I wish I could watch the process in action, it sounds fascinating.