Water in Engine

then we expect to hear about your awesome ride that you take TOMORROW.......LOL

dave

 

Yeah, I've been reading the "Quick Fix" thread but so far no one is posting up any useful quick fixes, so I think the forum mods need to check it out and maybe lock it so it doesn't keep wasting bandwidth.

 

I'am so confused, is a car hold a garage or more like a carport. Never heard that one before.
But I've never been to Texas either

 

I figured it was the boot, or trunk.. oh whatever.. :roll:

 

Simpsons refrence.

 

Ding ding ding, we have a winner.

 

Here ya go



Yikes!

Soon my pet...

 

Carb question time. I am reassembling the final carb (#1 as it were) after thorough cleaning and noticed that, with new seals on both ends of the throttle shaft, the throttle plate sticks in an open position when I twist the shaft. I then proceeded to pull the throttle cable connection between #2&#3 (which 2-4 are back on the rack) and the throttles all stick in a partially open position, or to say it another way they don't return to a fully closed position.
Thoughts? I don't want to deal with a hanging idle condition when these all go back in the bike.

 

Did you mark the throttle plates to match them with the carbs before you took them off?

 

Disassembled/cleaned/reassembled the carbs one at a time, so I never had parts move between them. So yes, the throttle plates are in the correct carbs, and facing the correct way as well.

 

You need to use the balancing screws to get the all to match carb #3.

Put a straightened out paperclip in butterfly three. Now do the same thing on 4. Turn the vertical screw between 3&4 so that butterfly 4 has the same frictional resistances a 3. Leave those two clips there. Now put one in butterfly 1 and 2. Do the same thing with the vertical screw between 1&2. As needed, adjust the screw between 2&3 to get the 1/2 combo to feel the same as 3/4 combo. Once they are all even then remove the clips. See how it looks..... Should just a sliver of light at the bottoms of all four of them. The tops should just barely uncover one of the holes in the top of the bore.

If something is still hanging way open, you probably hooked a spring up wrong.

Congrats, you just performed your first bench sync. Now set the mixture screws to 2.5 turns out ( I give each one just a tweak more, like to 7 o'clock or 7 1/2 o'clock.

Put the carbs on and she should fire up once the carbs fill so gas.

Dave f

 

Ok, I wasn't sure if a bench sync would correct this. It was on my to-do list, but didn't want to fully lock down the rack if I needed to get to the throttle shafts again.

 

I think regardless of all I am going to pull the throttle shafts back out because I did not apply any silicone to the seals as per the numerous break down threads I have been reading. One step forward, two steps back...I am just glad I noticed this before I torqued everything in the rack.
After that, I have Dremel bits and wire brushes and degreaser and Goof-Off to start cleaning the grime off the new engine. It'll be a while before I get to put this engine in, but I want to do it one time and one time only.

 

Well all things considered it wasn't too tough to get everything back apart and grease those seals, and it made all the difference. In fact, upon taking out the fuel crossover pipes I noticed a couple of the o-rings had gotten damaged so I was able to fix that hidden danger, too.
Oh yeah, and some cleaning, I hate cleaning

 

Ah, and I also finished re-racking my carbs, next step is to do a bench sync. Then once the engine is cleaned, I can check and adjust the valves, order a new battery and put this puppy into the frame and maybe give it a test fire.

 

Fwiw, I have never had to put silicone on any throttle shaft seals, and a little lube with engine oil works fine for the fuel rail seals for me.

 

X3!

Allen screws solve can so many problems. HEADER SCREWS come to mind.

 

header studs might not be a good place for a bolt. sometimes the studs break but i think the threads in the head would strip a lot more if bolts were used.
if the studs break they were seized in the head just like a bolt would be.
besides, putting the pipes on would be a real trick if you couldn't hang the collars on anything, especially a 4/1 header.
get stainless studs and nuts and never have a problem again

 

Unless they are already broken or showing signs of corrosion, I am not in the habit of replacing exhaust studs.

 

Well, I was thinking generally on the one hand, but specifically automotive headers on the other, and not our Maxims. The studs are WAY better in this application.