What did you do to your Yamaha today?

pulled the resonator cartridges out of the exhaust. Sounds like my 01 FZ1 now. Amazing!

 

I was up till 2:30 this mornign gutting out my carbs again to get at those things I misse dthe first time I cleaned them. Got everything don this afternoon about 5 and put it back on and noticed an improvement on how it ran! In my opinion it seems to be worth it! Thanks RickCoMatic for that nice walkthrough you typed up here awhile jgo on cleaning carbs! Seen a few things there that I missed before. Also Just incase anyone wants to know I found that the screws that hold the carb bowl on work great to get out the emulsion tubes, fit perfect! You may already know that but if not there you go! FWIW

Edit: sorry about the spelling! didn't get much sleep last night!

 

Took a guy who works for me out for a ride. Me on the CBR, him on the XJ650. Had some fun, until he crashed the XJ. Came around a tight poorly-marked 35 mph turn too fast and he went down on the right side in some grass and gravel.

He's okay. Cut his knee a bit and has some rash. I think it's mostly his pride that was hurt.

Bike is a bit bent up. Got her upright to find the blinkers and headlight were a mess. Needle on the tach snapped off (though the stub that's left works fine!). Steering is way off to one side as well. Not sure what is causing THAT. Some extra rash on the engine; YICS emblem missing now; dent in Kerker exhaust deeper than before.

Started right back up, though. Ha! That impressed him and the other two guys we rode with. I told them the XJ is a hard to kill bike.

Rode it all the way back to town (20 miles or so). He bought me coffee and offered to help pay for parts and/or machine stuff as necessary (which he *is* capable of doing). We'll see how that goes. I just hired this guy a while ago and he seems like the stand-up sort. We'll see for sure now.

Got her home and started taking the front end apart. I have pictures that I will post soon of the damage. After getting the wheel and fork tubes off, I don't think that's what's bent. They look perfectly straight now that they're free, and holding a ruler up to them seems to confirm this. The twist in the triple was pretty pronounced, so if it were the tubes, I think I'd be able to see it.

I think the bent headlight shell and/or the steering stem itself (upper vs. lower) is what got yanked out of true. I have to get the entire instrument cluster apart anyway, but I got interrupted just then so it'll have to wait.

*sigh* I was just getting this thing in really good condition. Ah, well. I needed an excuse to replace the steering bearings and some other things anyway, I guess.

 

Sorry to hear that rhys, make him work harder now LOL glad to hear hes ok,

 

Yeah, we checked him out. Fortunately, he was smart enough to wear a good jacket and helmet, and he borrowed some gloves which saved his hands (the gloves got some rash).

He was ticked about his jeans, though. Apparently, they were some really good jeans that were hard to find (for him, anyway). Not designer or anything, but they fit *just right*, and now they're torn up.

He called me later after he caught up with his wife. She threw a fit. ;p

 

I put a lot of thought (and read a lot of posts) before starting Seafoam in my gas to gradually clean varnish/residues/etc. Even though I installed a new inline filter to catch particles loosened in the tank I was concerned by comments on problems arising from grunge possibly loosened within the carbs.

So rather than a big initial dose of petro-laxative, what's working for me is a couple of ounces per tankfull (as described in Seafoam 'gas additive' directions). No problems whatever so far (4 tanks)and I feel it's gradually cleaning out all the old buildup.

Your call, of course: if you hit it hard with a heavy Seafoam mix upfront that will clean it fast but I'd be prepared for a slight risk this may require going into the carbs.

 

That is why I took the time to clean out my carbs first prior to adding the SeaFoam. I know that I didn't get them perfect or pristine, but they were quite clean and how new viton seals throughout.

Food for thought... :wink:

 

I rode mine to work today for the first time. It has been quite cold this spring and this morning it was finally above 45 deg when I left so I figured it was about time I started riding. Plus, let's do a little math:

1997 Chevy Suburban = 10-12 mpg city
1982 Yamaha Maxim 650 = ~35-40 mpg
Gas = $3.95/gallon
Fresh air = Princeless

 

Had a fouled plug (probably from the extended time I've spent tinkering with the carbs) so before I left for work in the cage this morning I threw four new plugs into the bike. Hope to fire it up later tonight to see if that helps my issues. Fingers crossed.

 

Finally experienced my first running out of gas moment riding around today. So, for tank #1; 80 miles and ~2.19 gallons. I say about because I don't think that I filled her up to the bottom of the neck the first time. So that makes the first tank's milage at least 36.5 mpg and that is all city driving with the first 30 miles or so spent learning how to ride her in my subdivision and some redline moments, not many though.

I changed the oil (finally) tonight also and refilled her with Rotella T 15W-40. The PO definately put some wrist into the filter housing bolt but it did come out after a bit of persuation.

 

Pulled the forks to do the seals and got in way over my head. 82 xj750 forks are overly complicated.

 

Went to a Junk Yard ans spent 2-Bucks for a couple of quality Spark Plug Wires off a wrecked VW Passat.

Came home and pulled my 1~4 Coil and did "Coil Surgery"
Replaced the Spark Plug Wires on my left Coil.

Ran the Bike.
Good solid Spark to 1 and 4 now.

 

Mmmmm... Fresh wheel-bearing goodness!

Well, the front wheel at least. It really needed it! Maybe do the rear wheel next week.

 

Changed the oil, filter, and rear end grease.

 

I just bought mine today. Now I just need to do a little work to get it where I want it before I hit the road.

 

I took off the front fender n both side covers. N started sanding! I bought flat black "spray" paint. 2 paint my bike with! I'll be making a post of my progress soon.... :twisted:

 

Continued my assessment of the damage. Front fender: bent. Exhaust pipe mounting bracket: bent. BRAND NEW HANDLEBARS: bent. (Well, they were used, but I just got them from chacal a couple of months ago.) Right front blinker stay is a little bent, but servicable. Headlight shell, bracket, and ring are toast. Add those to the list of busted things mentioned from Sunday.

The good news is that I think the forks and clamps are okay. So far, not counting rash, everything that was damaged is a fairly easily replaceable part, assuming the parts can be found for sale.

Good news part deux is the fact that the guy who bent it has a lathe, a mill, and a drill press. What can't be replaced might be fabbed (like that mounting bracket).

 

I've tuned the engine on my 750 Seca before with no problem, but it never seemed to run glass smooth...till now.
I've always blocked off the YICS ports with a tool I made to synch the carbs.
So I read here where it's not etched in stone that you need to block off the YICS ports to synch the carbs, so I figured I'd give it a try. I am convinced, you don't need to use it. I have the bike running like butter now! It starts with almost no effort (no choke) and idles like new. It revs smooth thru the power band. It's almost like a different engine now.
The carbs were not off by much, but evidently enough to make a difference between idling rough until it warms up and a little hesitation when reving it - to - starting easier, idling like a new motor and reving effortlessly thru the gears. My air screws are re-adjusted out 2-1/2 turn now and it seems to be perfect.
I never had a Colortune to set the carbs, so I do what I can with what I have. The plugs look good too, so I must be as close as perfect as I can get without it. PD

 

A little late... Monday... Went to drill out the stripped screw in the MC so I can change fluild and such...... well drill caught and snapped the head off flush with the body...no hole had to be drilled... cover now using 1 self stapping screw :/

After that check the bleed valve to find it was stuck... hit it with some pb blaster (careful as not to get the rotor or pads) wating game is on.

Checking local &deciding what to order, may hit Mikes SX for some SS braded line and new levers & grips, checking into a local Virago 920 parts bike on levers and maybe MC, if the price is right and they work....

 

There is enough material on the threaded body of the MC to drill it and tape it for the next over-size.

You just have to drill the Cover for the over-sized fastener; too.

I had to do this on my 750 Maxim. Both Cover Screws broke-off while I was trying to uncover the Master Cylinder to flush the brake fluid. I drilled the MC receiving threaded ports to the next over-size and rant the drill through the two holes on the cover.

Then I tapped new threads in the MC receiving holes and now use Stainless Steel Cap Screws to hold-on that cover.

Looks good and don't leak!