What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Tnx,i will take bouth cams off and change it.much simplier and faster

 

Not sure about simpler... Check out this link from our how-to section.
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...tment-part-2-the-tool-vs-ziptie-w-pics.29209/

 

I see it,but i must i think change all 8 shims so is easier and faster to take cams off,i hope.heehhehehe i will try tonight and report .

 

yep, your call. It is tedious, rotating the crank around to do all the checks and replacements. You really do need the cams in place for checking clearance.

 

For heaven's sake, don't remove the cams!! Use the cable tie method referred to above and look at the following link on how to remove the shims. The tool shown in the link is often hard to use, so even though I have one I usually use a piece of thick electrical wire as shown in the link. One thing that might not have been mentioned in Bigfitz's link is that you will need to rotate the bucket until the notch in the bucket is in the proper position to insert a small screwdriver in to pop out the shim, which you can see in his picture. This is really a simple process, it just sounds hard.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...tment-part-2-the-tool-vs-ziptie-w-pics.29209/

 

yeah zip tie method works grreat.
don't forget that your tools for removing shims CANNOT be magnetic

 

Factory service manual states to use a magnetic pick up tool, works like a charm once shim is popped.
fumbled with tweezers and forcepts pain in the ass magnet pick and lift done in seconds.

just make sure that cam chain holes are protected with rags so if you drop shim it does not fall down the hole, you would do this no matter what method you chose to grab the shim

Just make sure it is a new one kept clean and stored to keep chips off of it

 

I coulda swore the manual I went off of said non-magnetic tools. IIRC it was so that you don't accidentally magnetize the shim.

 

fsm

 

Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe....

 

Looks like you have it lined just right. Straight parallel to those center threads.

 

OK went for a longer ride today, cloudy but no rain. Anyway what I found is that I have an oil leak below the starter.
removed starter and found that the O-ring is torn in two. No biggie going to the local Coastal Farm store they have a section of Metric O-rings there.
while riding around Ashland Oregon I found or noticed that they have some steep roads so I journeyed up and down a few to begin applying a load to the rings.
One thing I also noticed is that my bike fires right up. Before I always had to sit with my hand on the throttle to keep it running until it warmed up. If it was cold like below 40 degrees It took awhile. To combat this I would use a heat lamp placed under the engine and a moving blanket over the bike to keep the engine warm.
Now that I have adjusted the valves properly she starts right up. Heck the choke or fuel enhancer can't think of the proper term, even works freak in amazing.
I have read in various articles that the XJ700X was a breeze to start regardless of the temp. I have realized that if the valves are adjusted properly and everything else is in good shape as of now she does start right.
Also when I shut her off it stops instantly-I believe that she is nice and tight LOL.

 

Tnx to all very much,nice to have somewhere on that planet soo much good people.ok now i took cams off in 5min ,soo i change pads from carbs to exhaust and now i have just on one valve of carbs 0 mm,other haha neather one is not in spec (they are moving arrownd 0.05-0.10),soo now i must to buy some shims that i can fix that problem.a

 

Tnx mate i hope that will start,i hope that i will get it tomorrow to start it just for hear it,will be inaf.

 

This summer you can come to my classroom and help me re-magnetize the student magnets. You'll soon see why a magnetic pick-up tool will not magnetize a shim.

 

Fuel enrichment circuit?

 

Replaced O-ring for the starter and re installed, placed the no water sticker on radiator cap. I have changed over to using Evans waterless coolant, seems to be working just fine so far. Real test will be this summer when it is avg. 90+ degrees.
Question for those who have the XJ700X- where does your temperature gauge read when under normal operating conditions ?
I or the previous owner installed a manual on/off switch for the fan. I usually turn it on when the needle hits the little gap about 1/4 inch before the red line. For some odd reason I like to keep the engine running right about there.
When I first got the bike I did install a new temp sending unit. I did this because without the manual fan switch the fan would not kick on until the temp needle was at the red line.
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

 

My X is somewhat "cold blooded" I think. Typical temp/gauge when cruising in 55mph at 10-15 degree Celcius - 1/3 to the middlemark (the black bar in the middle of the gauge). Drove the bike today on the highway (at 6 degree celcius - brrr..) - 65 mph - 1/2 to the middlemark, engine rpm is +5000 at this speed. Have not tested the thermostate - Its on the TODO list

The temp switch in my X is original btw. The fan kicks in just a tad before entering the red mark (but this does not happen when driving - only when extensive idling/queueing downtown at +20 degree Celcius). Cools down to the middlemark pretty fast (and give you a ton of extra heat as a bonus..).
;A

 

6 degrees Celcius crud tht is 42 F here no tbad really all you need is the proper cold weather gear and a scarf for your neck. This to stop the cold air running down the front of your jacket. I learned the hard way, I used to get off work at 2A.M. and ride home about 15 miles. Although I would still ride until it got down to 34.0 (F) I think that would be 1 degree Celsius.
Anyway thanks for sharing your information I do appreciate it.

 

Still have my windshield on my XJ550 as the morning temps are in the low 40's. Usually about May I take the windshield off until late September. Windshield extends my driving season about 2-3 months in my area. Here are pics with and without the windshield.

 

It is a nice windshield - not very obstructive. Does it break the wind around your hands/ cuff of your jacket? Easy attachment?

 

It does shield the hands a bit, enough I don't get much breeze up my sleeve. I do get some "suction" air from the engine area up to my torso. That's why I remove it in the summer, gets a bit warm between engine air and no wind over the upper body. Adjusted properly, the wind breaks nicely right over the visor of my helmet, so my vented helmet still catches the air, but my eyes don't get blasted.

It only requires me to remove four 12mm bolts to remove, about 15 minutes to install and adjust, 5 minutes to remove if I leave the front brackets on the headlamp bucket, which are not very obtrusive or visible when the windshield is removed.

I often get asked if it is stable since it is handlebar/headlight bucket mounted. Rock steady down the road even at 80mph (speed limit in South Dakota), although I rarely drive that fast.

I think it is some generic make, no markings. I bought it as part of a "negotiation" with the dealer when I bought the 1983 model brand new in 1985. Neogitation included engine guard/foot pegs, sissy bar, foam grips and 2 Fulmer helmets. He really wanted to sell, I hear they had major overstocks of Japanese bikes in that era.

Grips long ago rotted and helmets replaced a couple of times! As you can see I have a current Gmaxx helmet which I really like.

 

Jealous......

 

These will solve that.
http://craigvetter.com/pages/Online_Store/Replacement_Parts/Details.html#Anchor-Original-46384

 

I've seen those, but I'm not sure I want to drill through the plexiglass on mine. Pretty thick.

 

I put one in my Slipstreamer. They work perfectly, and drilling is not a problem. Thinner plexi is more difficult to drill than thick. Use painter's tape to cover the area being drilled, and fed the drill in slowly.

 

Just filled up my tank for the second time. 109 miles 2.5 gallons 43.4 MPG
Extremely happy with this mpg.
When I first got the bike using the original air cleaner and such the best I got was 50 mpg and that was on a 5 hour trip to California to see family.
Normal daily riding then was avg. 45 mpg.
I am waiting for the other three original air box joints as to replace the pods to original air box.
Still need to do carb sync. and use the color tune to adjust everything.
I am just having to much fun riding around right at the moment.
Probably do that tonight when I get home from work. Engine will be nice and warm and there is still some daylight to work with.
Be safe out there

 

The screen has quite a bit of curve where I would put them. Would they work on a curve?

 

They would work, but not fully close. I have mine open year-round though.

 

I'm jealous of those who are already riding -- I gave my pipes to a guy for re-chrome and he's disappeared with family issues. It's quite frustrating. I hope I get them back. Anyway, today I got to work on some of the gear ordered from @chacal a few months back. New Progressive 430 Shocks and an upgraded rotor. I also nearly completed the MC rebuild and Caliper rebuild last night. Didn't snag a pic of the shocks installed but I'll throw it up here later in the week.

 

mmmm new shocks! Leads to a much happier bum and back

 

...Loaded it on a trailer. Patted it on the tank. Said a quiet goodbye. Would've given it a little kiss, but we're out in the street and neighbors already look at me weird. Sat on the couch by the window like a sad puppy as it rolled out of my life.

 

Ouch.

 

There'll be another.....

 

Turned it into a decent stack of paper. I tried sitting on that and making vroom vroom noises, but it just wasn't the same.

 

I bet it looked like you had $$ coming out your @&&

 

Maybe that's why the sales guy at Yamaha/Honda dealership was following me so closely. Had a little retail therapy- new helmet and gloves to guarantee I'll be riding again someday.

Ps. Damn that new fj700 is nice.

 

Put my new battery in, turned key, pushed button,,, vroom vroom.

 

Addressing repeated fuel in oil... removed rack, cleaned bowls and main jets, needles, found one float set way higher than the others, reset to same as others. Put it all back together and went to start it and killed the battery because I was so excited I forgot to choke and left the vacuum hose off

Battery is on charge now and going to try again when I get home from work.

 

Things that keep us from getting on the road.. been there..
Matti - There's guy in Toronto posted a XJ750RL on this site a few weeks ago and willing to sell for a few hundred. Looks like a decent bike for little $$ if you need another project. Full fairing and low kms. I was considering, but too many projects.

 

Today I removed the valve cover and checked and recorded the valve clearances. My Cafe Racer has done more than 5000 miles since I last did this and during a recent ride out the engine began running unusually rough and started to cut out once it was hot. It's over due for a tune-up so now I've made the first step I'll be hoping to complete the job over the next few days.

 

turns out it was the starter motor and it's a disaster... full of oil, no brushes left, commutator smooth.... blah.

Now I see the elephant analogy...

 

The commutator can be undercut with broken hacksaw blade, and the motor rebuilt.

 

Thinking of that... going to clean it up and see how bad... pinged Chacal for an updated quote too just in case.

 

Quick question.

I am currently rebuilding my carbs after they've been to church. Bike is Xj650 4k0 -80.
When i took the rack apart there was no 'plastic shim' installed by carb 3 where the 'big' spring is located. Since that axle is longer there is a 'plastic tube' thing placed there, but when i assemble it i feel that there is a bit of play to the sides there which would allow to accomodate one more plastic shim next to the plastic tube.
So question is, should there be a shim there? Or is it only 7 shims in total for this rack?

 

When you put the butterfly in place and tighten it down the end play will disappear

 

The play in the opposite side from the spring will disappear as i can see it. But the play around the plastic tube will remain on the spring side wont it? Just curious if this is normal or not (don't want to take down the rack if i down have to again). Bit afraid that dirt and such will find it's way into the throttle shaft seal there.

 

Nope... once the butterfly is in, the shaft won't move...and besides, that's why you have a throttle shaft seal there

 

from xj4ever catalog
On both the HSC32 and HSC33 models, the outer carbs (#1 and #4) use 2 shims per carb.

On HSC32 models, the #2 carb uses 2 shims per carb, and the #3 carb use 1 shim.

.......
Thus, on HSC32 model carbs, there are a total of 7 shims used per entire carb rack.
......
a source of parts and information

 

Yeah the shaft wont move, but the 'plastic tube' bit will move a little bit. But i'll take your word for it!

Thanks for the quick replies. Back at it. I'll make a bike thread and throw some pics and such when i progress a bit.