What did you do to your Yamaha today?

I replaced the battery, and found that a "battery plus" store is two blocks from where I live. They had better prices than I could find on the web - $29.95 for the 12-A-A. I also picked up a Battery Tender Jr., for $29.95. That is a GREAT thing to have, btw.

I solved the problem of a leaky front brake master cylinder. In removing the top, the screws were frozen and had to be drilled out. There was not enough "stub" to screw out, so we had to drill out the stubs. Sadly, though, on one of them the drill bit broke.

Amazing the things you can do with a tie wrap.

Cleaned air filter.

The rust/crud/oxidation process is now officially started.

 

Changed out motor over the weekend. New one is runningsweet, though now I get to start tweaking it. I need to find someone nearby with a colortune, or break down and buy one.

 

Search: Colortune on the web.

I have seen a few places that have them on Discount and on SALE!

 

Finaly started rebuild after a long holiday and lack of motivation.....

 

You seem to be missing a few parts.

 

Just slap a seat on there and have some downhill races

 

j5) Morgan Colortune Tuning Spark Plug ....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions:

NOTE: 12mm plugs are used on all XJ550 and XJ700-X models.
14mm plugs are used on all XJ650/XJ700 non-X/XJ750/XJ900/XJ1100 models. No XJ bikes from this era used 10mm plugs!


HCP95A Morgan Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 10mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "C" are 10mm.
$ 49.00 plus shipping

HCP95B Morgan Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 12mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "D" are 12mm, and are used on all XJ550 models and all XJ700 "X" model bikes.
$ 49.00 plus shipping

HCP95C Morgan Colortune Spark Plug Tool, for 14mm spark plugs:
NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "B" are 14mm, and are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X models, and all XJ750/900/1100 models.
$ 47.00 plus shipping



j2) Morgan Carbtune Pro 4-column Synch Tool-Gauge-Stick....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. This is the one that everyone recommends using. Uses damped stainless steel sliding dowels instead of mercury, giving accurate, safe, and easy-to-read measurements. More expensive than other synch tools and worth it. Use it even once and you'll wonder how you lived without it.

HCP96Q Morgan Carbtune Pro 4-column Synch Sticks:
$ 109.00 plus shipping

j3) Storage/Transport Pouch for the above carbtune pro synch stick....very nice zippered and clasp-closure storage case to hold the gauge and all the accessories neatly and safely. You REALLY want to have this to safely store and transport the (somewhat fragile) synch gauges!

HCP1287 Morgan Carbtune Storage & Transport Pouch
$ 19.00 plus shipping


http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=45.html

 

Day before yesterday, I replaced the tires. Still have plenty of tread left on them but the sidewall started cracking. IF that happens again I am writing Continental and letting them know that there tires start cracking at the sidewall at 11,000 miles. Truthfully I do not know if I should be upset or not. First time I have ever replaced tires because of that, usually it's because they are bald. Actually I would not have replaced them but I am trying to ride to Denver, which for me is a 1000 mile ride from Ca. The last thing I need is to be stuck in Utah somewhere where help is 100 miles away.
Today I replaced the forksprings and the steering bearings. Yeah no more self centering steering!!!. First time using Progressive springs so hopefully they do there job, the stock ones would probably be better on a xj400 instead of the seca turbo.

 

I imagine somewhere in that 1,000 Mile journey ... you ought to be over at the right hand side of the tach.

Never been over 600 Miles.

I envy you ... I think?

 

Kenbo, how did you painted the rims? They look really good and that is exacty what I need, since my midnight is all black but still has the stock golden rims.

Thank you!

 

yeah, I think I need the progressive springs in my forks. They bottom out every time I hit the brakes aggressively. I checked the free length and everything is in order, but dam n they are soft! I guess 25 years is a long time for springs. Anyone know anywhere to get the springs for less than 100 beans? Things are tight right now with the wedding coming up in 2 weeks.

 

check dennis kirk. I think I paid 75.00 for mine

 

A coupla questions re: springs:

1. How can I tell if they are progressive? I just got the bike and have no idea what mods have been done?

2. It looks like there are five (?) preload settings, currently set to the middle. I'd like to make them a bit firmer. I can't see from looking how to do that. It doesn't look like the typical c-spanner job. Or am I missing something?

 

Progressive springs are wound tighter on one end. They aren't uniform looking all the way the length of the Spring.

I've seen lots of bikes with Progressive Springs already in when doing Fork Seals.

 

Your rear springs have the preload. Progressive springs are put in the front forks.

You change the preload on the rear by turning the ring on the bottom of the spring seat. A special wrench came with the bike, but is probably long gone. You can use large pliers against the boss with the hole in it (that is where the original wrench caught it. Wrap with a rag to keep from scratching.

 

Rick the springs I pulled out were tighter on one end. THe major difference was the diameter of the coil. So far the bike has alot less dive on the brakes and the nose seems to stand a bit taller. I still used about 2 inches of PVC spacers instead of the 4. So far I like it

 

So if I have to have the rear shocks on the highest pre-load to keep from bottoming, or having too soft a feel in the corners, is that a pretty good indication that I need a new rear set of struts?

 

PghXJ, if you weigh 150 to 300 lbs.? Probably.



600 lbs.? No... You need a diet.

 

try 165...

 

I bought a new tank and side cover set for my 1982 XJ650. It was $50 on ebay for all of it!! I was shocked I got it, but there was some good TV on tuesday night so no one else was bidding on it.

 

SCORE!!!

 

LMFAO Gamuru
I bet the mileage does "down down down" with his butt riding

 

Quit making fun of me ...

I was just road testing that scooter after Colortuning it! : )

 

That's no scooter! That used to be a Goldwing!


To keep with the thread, I fixed my fog light switch today...

 

I put some fresh high-test and some Fuel Injector Cleaner in the 900 and went-out looking for bikes at lights. Didn't find to many outside, today, as it was rather cool in New England.

Stayed out and did enough zooming around to slosh some fresh, clean, gas i n the Fuel Bowls ... and play "Enemy Fighter Pilot" with everything on the road that was going fast.

Had the tach up to the limiter twice. She's still young at heart. But, I'm going to be looking for a new home for her soon. I'm bumping back to being a one bike guy, again.

I'm keeping the Maxim.

 

Had to put the ride off for a couple of weeks. Decided that the weather isnt cold enough The bike is ready to go though...... Dam bills got in the way


Sean

 

Haven't had to spin a wrench in a few weeks - Nice! Checked tire pressure as temps are quite cool and the new battery spins 'til she starts, even with mornings at -4C or 26F. Bought a shield for the helmet and the cooler weather is much more enjoyable for riding, maybe even better than summer. You get all the benefits without being hot, soaked, sticky and burned. Add the gorgeous colours bursting from the forests - man, it can't get any better than this.

 

Nothing major over the weekend...bought her a bike cover and I'm trying some Tarp Tape to repair a tear in the seat, will see how it holds up.

Also did a plug chop, she's running lean need a nice day to get her running richer to smooth things out a bit.... (not today, anniversary...wife wouldn't be happy heh)

Damn...-4 up your way, we've hit 4C as a cold point so far.... she still starts with one touch of the button....

 

Did my Instrument Panel.
Went with the "Techno-look"
Pulled the Speedo and Tach ... Epoxyed a crack in the plastic case ... Pulled the rubber Bulb Sockets ... yanked the clear Bulbs ... Armoral Treated the Sockets with a Q-Tip ... Put-in BLUE Bulbs ...

Then ... went to the Hobby Shop ... got a bottle of Florescent Yellow Paint ... Painted the Needle indicators of my Tach and Speedo ... the Epoxy was dry by then ... so, I put it all together, nice ... and rolled it into the Garage ... turned-off the garage lights and admired the job.

Much better now!

 

I did a little research on speedometers and found that some in the motorcycle realm are using bike computers (bicycle) on their motorcycles with great success. So I ventured down to the local sport shop and purchased one (cheap...$24.99) and installed it today. Took a little while to figure out how to fabricate a bracket for the signal pick-up on the fork. And with a little L-shaped bracket, I got it in just the correct position to read the signal.
So...I jack up the front wheel off the floor, spin the wheel and WHALLA, the speedo reads 8 mph!!! So I figured it worked and had to take it out for a test ride. I reads perfect and actually has a odometer, clock and reads up to 80.5 mph ( I don't run much faster than that unless I'm passing on the interstate)
There are more expensive models that will go up to 160 mph, so I may have to invest in that one when I get done with the mods I have planned for this winter.
I'm ready to remove the stock gauges now and clean up the front end a bit. I have to fabricate small plate to fit three tini LED lights for my high beam, signal, and nuetral indicators. That should look slick when I get'r done. I'll have to snap a few photos after I finish and post'm here, >PD<

 

Wireless???

 

No Rick, I didn't go with the wireless right off the get go. I wanted to see just how complicated they were to program and use (quite simple actually)
If I go with a wireless version on my next move, I want to make sure it will read from enough distance (handlebar location to the fork location) or it would be useless. Some don't read the signal very far away, so I just went with the wire one for now. >PD<

 

Rick... we need pics of your new instrument panel!!!
May get inspired for a winter project after lay the bike up

 

My 5 Gigabites of Picture Space is used.

I cannot add photos anymore.

 

Rick you could upload the photos to a server like PhotoBucket

http://photobucket.com/

then link them to here or use the Attach Image to load them straight from your hard drive.

Oh and I rode the XJ today

 

Got my XJ750 tank today. I also bought a driver foot peg to replace a torn one and I got a great deal on 2 tank emblems that look brand spankin new. So I'll have to take the tank to the body shop to get a dent out and paint. It will give me some added fuel for my 650. Should look nice.

 

Today I layed her down hard. Idiots in front of me decided to wreck and it was slide on the side or merge with the trunk. My leg is killing me. But the bike is ok for the most part. The tank will need some work and new bars and pegs.

 

Well ...
Let's take a look at the bright side ... shall we?
You ARE home.
In one piece.
And, able to type about it.

YOU could get a whole new bike.
WE can't get a whole new YOU!!!

 

Very true. Also a good excuse to start my winter tear down and rebuild a little sooner. Maybe get more done.

 

Life's full of tough choices. Some you get right; some you get wrong. I'm telling you this, so, in this instance, you chose well, Grasshopper. :wink:

(But, seriously. I'm sorry to hear about your mishap. Glad you're okay!)

 

Today... I rode the beast and rode it hard.....

I love my XJ

 

We are talking about your XJ Motorcycle ... right??? : )

 

I'll leave that up to your imagination :lol:

8)

 

The question is what did my XJ do to me today? Yesterday after heavy rain, I noticed my left rear light was out so I stopped at the AutoZone and picked up a replacement. This morning it was dark and I hadn't put the new bulb in. I rummaged through the shed, located a screw-ma-driver and got the lens off. The water that poured out gave me a pretty good idea what had happened to the bulb. I noticed also that the glass was all greyish and discolored. I'm guessing it was hot and the water hit it and zapped it. Now I'm getting short on time. Don't want to be late for work so I reach in, grab the bulb between my finger and thumb, start to push (i'm in a hurry) The bulb crushed and sliced both the finger and the thumb. I have a nice matching set of gashes on both my thumb and middle finger.

Niceness

 

I had pulled the plugs last week sometime to see how everything was working; the #4 was the most slightly brownish of the lot, #3 having a little bit, and the other two having almost none. So, I tweaked the carb sync screws and we'll see what happens.

Alive: we're still wondering why you named your wife "XJ"... :mrgreen:

Dave: don't feel bad. I banged up my right side and my knee working on lane 23 yesterday. My side has a bruise, and my knee still freaking hurts.

(Note to self: when stepping down onto the light bar when going to retrieve a dropped spring, make sure you actually step onto the light bar.)

 

daveflick, sounds like you overfilled your blinker fluid! :lol:

 

Got the fluid drained and dried out. (out of the light, the finger is still draining ) Went to the car parts store and bought a new bulb and socket. I think the water was coming from the stem of the light where the wires enter. I augmented the rubber boot with lots of clear silicone to keep the water out then squeezed as much silicone as I could through the stem. I also upgraded the electrical connections with weatherproof connectors that had heat shrink ends and added an additional layer of heat shrink over that. It rained all day today and everything looks good!
blink....blink....blink.....blink.

 

Everyone with a boat trailer recognizes your bulb condition.

Water hits hot bulb, glass cracks. Inert gas leaks out, oxygen enters. Filament instantly burns away, coating glass with soot.

Structural integrity of bulb is ruined. Any pressure and it finishes breaking.

Smoked bulbs are an indication that you want your heaviest leather gloves on when changing. Better yet, break the glass away and remove the base with needle nose pliers.

 

Took advantage of the unseasonable warm weather and rode as hard as I could. The season is coming to an end. Made a mental note of all the things to fix and check over the winter.

 

oh my, what haven't I done to my xj today? I just acquired another x and that thing was a mess. The exhaust was a 4 n 2 1, all steel, no baffle. Lowered 3" in the front and actually had shorter brake lines put on it. I pulled the carbs and wrestled with them for a few days finally figuring out a way to get the float needle to come out of it's shell. I swapped tcis as the one in the bike was to an xj700, moved wire 3 and four to their right plugs, swapped the stators, tested the stators, soldered and shrink wrapped wires, wrapped the stator wires back up, bench synched the carbs, and got the bike to fire and run with no exhaust...that's about all for this past weekend. I'm in the process of stealing the better of the two master cylinders and painting it. What's next? who knows, there is always something right?? oh, that's right, I have an exhuast coming for it soon...then it just needs the front tire put on it's bead and or a new one...not a bad deal for about a 400 dollar x.