what STUPID thing did you do with your yamaha today?

Head gasket, or valve cover gasket? A head gasket that's leaking and has RTV on it sounds like a pretty bad idea. A valve cover gasket that leaks will usually require new crush washers on the hold down bolts, as well as a new gasket.

 

Reassembled rear drum brake after safety inspection (XJ 750 Maxim) and new tires . . . didn't own a torque wrench with the correct settings so I just used a regular wrench to tighten the brake adjustment pinch bolt . . . sheared the bolt off in the hole. Took me quite awhile to fix that one.

 

indeed. "small" head gasket leaks don't stay small for long. Either you can't get enough compression for that cylinder to light or combustion blasts through the leak until it is big enough to do the above.

Valve cover if it's slight prolly just new donuts will fix it right up.

 

I put some carbs vseals and orings in the carb cleaner.

 

I know I'm resurrecting a three year old post, but I kindasorta did this today. See, here's what happened.

Rode down for my annual tour through the Midway Museum on the 700X. Parked a few blocks away (they don't enforce the meters on Sundays or Holidays). As an added precaution, I locked the forks. Thing is, there's another setting labeled "P" next to "Lock" -- this leaves the taillight on. (I didn't know I'd set it to "P".) Six hours later... dead battery. No lights. Couldn't bump start. Had to call a supervisor at work to come give me a jump. Classic ID-ten-T error.

 

I was out for a ride to the grocery store on Sunday and my speedo cable was not connected to the Atari (Atari actually removed) and it slipped down and dragged around for a mile or so. After I pull up, I notice that the part that sticks out of the cable that goes into the speedo gauge is gone.

Fortunately, its a $20 mistake.

 

@doc
boy am I glad that Im not the only one who was foolish enough to leave their bike set to prime. I was lucky enough to not gotten a crank full of gas.

 

Yeah, it was quite the 'Doh!' moment when I put it all together... Felt pretty stupid but with the amount of miles I am riding the oil would have needed changed by now! As it stands now I have about 700 more to go...

 

Well.... umm.... i was hoping nobody would ask, but since you did....

Yesterday i finished reassembling the bike after a tear down to do a bit of customizing. Upon a RUSH reassembly, i left the shocks at their softest setting, without checking the clearance between by new fender and new LED tail light, i went for a ride. About 10 blocks later i hit a bump big enough to complress the uber soft suspension, and the new tires gripped my new light very very well, ripped it right off, tore my new fender and ended my ride......

 

Ha well I'm glad I now know what the "P" stood for and meant. It seemed like the only way my bike would stay running was on "P". When I had it on "On" it would sputter while riding and eventually stall out almost as if it ran out of go-go juice, but on "P" it ran like a champ. So naturally I just reversed my thinking and when it was back in the shed I kept it on "On". Still fires up, but as of late the 1/4 coil seems to have gone now. Should I still check/replace the oil it's still pretty new. And is there a way to check it by draining a little out and simply smelling for gas mixed in?

 

I put my starter solenoid together.... backwards. (The case with the magnet). Took me an hour to figure it out. I enjoy reading this thread more than the other one....

 

well, i posted in the normal "what did you do" thread, but it belongs here.

Dropped it in the driveway

started it up so it could warm up while i put my riding gear on. drive way is ever so slightly down hill.....maybe 4-5 degrees. bike vibrated off the stand and down she went. i watched in slow motion from just-too-far-away as it broke the clutch lever, the mirror, and put some big scratches/gouges in the left side cover. ahh well....

 

looking over air filter and box and placed the snorkel near the halogen light to warm it up for easier reinstallation, forgot about because of a phonecall and found it smoking and nearly on fire....DOH!!!

 

Dropped the Phillips Screw used to secure the #2 Airbox Boot while reinstalling the Boots after a Carb Cleaning.

It's gone.
Diss-awe-peered.
Pee-pee's me off cause I went and got stainless.

I fought with the Boots for 20 Minutes.
Then, I yanked the Carbs out again.
Cut me 5-Inches if PVC Pipe.
Wrapped the PVC Pipe with a sheet of 320 Sanding Paper.
Made the 4 Airbox Holes a widdoe-bit biggah!!!
Smoothed those mothers-out with 800.
Wrapped a Paint Stir Stick with 320
Made the Locating Groove in 4 Air Box Boots, ... a widdoe-bit wide-uh.
Now they rotate without cursing.

 

here is a look at the carnage.... and it looked pretty good before too!

 

changed rear brake shoes - reassembled everything and got wheel back on only to realize my cleavis pin inside the drum was UPSIDE DOWN - therefore the brake arm and the wear indicator wouldn't go on (I guess they would have went on upside down - result - take it all apart again!

 

Been there done that!!!!!!!!!

 

Broke off one of the holders for the float in the carb. Attempting to clean and rebuild a carb that every moving part in it was frozen solid. Wrench slipped trying to remove the float valve.

 

ouch.....that had to be hard to watch......bike going down in slow motion breaking stuff......I feel for ya

 

Been there done that to. This thread is like dejavu vu vu vu