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Why You NEED TO REPLACE Original brake lines w/pics

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by bigfitz52, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. BaldWonder

    BaldWonder Innocent Bystander

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    [​IMG]
    And this is why I keep reading these forums.
     
  2. Ltdave

    Ltdave Member

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    once you replace that crudded up and potentially dangerous rubber hose from Reagan's first term how do you refill the new and super improved Chacal Stainless line?

    cant get any fluid down into it from the master cylinder on my 550J...

    i had the master cylinder rebuild by an auto mechanic and im pretty sure it works as designed...
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Use a syringe and a length of tubing. Force fill from the caliper bleed fitting. Most of the air will find it's way out as you fill from the caliper. If you don't have a farm store nearby, you can get a syringe for measuring 2-stroke oil at most auto parts stores.
     
  4. Dullahan

    Dullahan New Member

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    My break lines say toyota on them...what's up with that?

    I don't see any date indicators like shown here.

    Pics? I can post some after work.

    thanks for any help!

    Rob
     
  5. Captain_Panic

    Captain_Panic Member

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    Wait, what? That's odd.

    I checked mine after reading this thread, and it must be from another year of bike or something. 6/80??
     
  6. preall

    preall New Member

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    As an original owner of a 1978 XS1100E, I finally completed the refurbishing of my bike and it is back on the road! I want to give kudos to XJ4Ever for producing the high-quality stainless steel brake lines for my bike. Because I had to replace the front master cylinder with an aftermarket item, the banjo fittings did not match up with the original configuration. Len, at XJ4Ever was tremendous about helping me develop a line that fit perfectly. He sent a test line that was easy to line up and mark, so they could make a line that solved my problem, at no extra cost. That's great service. The lines work great and I really like the feel of the brakes using the stainless steel lines. I also replaced the rear three-piece original configuration with the single-piece line. It make things much easier. Thanks Len and thanks XJ4Ever with helping me with my XS11.
     
  7. oscarkilo

    oscarkilo Member

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    Awesome job Fitz
     
  8. Severin Stalmarck

    Severin Stalmarck New Member

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    Hey Fitz, great entry! Now where do I find stainless steel lines?

    Severin
     
  9. BaldWonder

    BaldWonder Innocent Bystander

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    Email Len (member Chacal) at info@xj4ever.com. He's your guy for anything for these bikes.
     
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  10. Ross1bd

    Ross1bd Member

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    "Medical Definition of POISEUILLE'S LAW
    : a statement in physics: the velocity of the steady flow of a fluid through a narrow tube (as a blood vessel or a catheter) varies directly as the pressure and the fourth power of the radius of the tube and inversely as the length of the tube and the coefficient of viscosity." Thank you Websters Medical Dictionary.

    Poiseuille's law says that the velocity directly as to the pressure and the fourth power of the radius of the tube. A moderate narrowing will have a BIG impact on the velocity (and therefore volume over a given period of time). The pictures on this thread's second page of the narrowings in the brake line internal lumen make me cringe.

    I read this thread last year and it prompted me then to re-do the 750. Reread the thread last week, then went outside and checked the date on the new-to-me. Its rubber lines were dated "3/83". Yike!!

    New rubber lines would be almost infinitely better than the "3/83" ones. But I'm buying these machines with no intention of getting rid of them (other than the poor parts donor.) This is why I'm putting SS brake lines (many thanks and kudo's to XJ4Ever) in the new-to-me 900. Don't want to worry about pictures like these five or ten years from now.
    In addition to the all-the-time risk of the line dissecting under moderate braking pressure, the occasion when I need the brakes the most (hauling in on the lever wanting the brakes to grab HARD and FAST) is the time when they will just not be able to do the work.
     
  11. Abaton6

    Abaton6 New Member

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    I have a 67 Mini Cooper. One day, the rear brakes would not let go. Turned out that the rubber brake lines swelled up inside, and were acting like a check valve. I barely got the car home!
     
    Andy Dobkins likes this.
  12. PJC750

    PJC750 Member

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  13. tj.

    tj. Active Member

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    Thanks for posting...on the to do list.
     
  14. xxlimzxx

    xxlimzxx New Member

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    I’m having a really hard time trying to find the date code on the lines and none of theses pictures are helping. Could someone help me out?
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    They are stamped on the lines with white ink. The line is stamped before it's cut to attach the banjo fittings, so it can be anywhere along the length of the line. If you can't see any markings, and it's the OEM type rubber line, then it's safe to assume they are far too old to still be in service.
     
  16. husky

    husky Member

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    Might go braided lines.as mine are origional.1985 and is hard but passed mot. ? grrrr
     
  17. Beer

    Beer New Member

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    I know I'm pretty late to the game here, but some of the posters early on had a lot of questions that I believe were geared towards trying to justify using old lines, or at least finding exceptions to what people were recommending.

    Rubber breaks down with time, it oxidizes, off gasses plasticizers, loses plasticity, and hardens with exposure to chemicals and the elements and from being cycled. Many countries have limits on tires of 5 years from the date of manufacture due to the rubber breaking down from oxidation and UV exposure. Why risk it with brake lines that are decades past the recommended usable life whether installed original lines or NOS?

    Running 40 year old rubber lines, unless hermetically stored in an oxygen free environment (those would be some expensive lines at this point), is begging for issues. In addition to the inner hose breaking down and pinch points and hard bends compressing and weakening the hose as shown above, the loss of elasticity allows the hose to expand quite excessively (think worn out elastic bands, they stretch further as they wear out, but don't return to their original diameter). This expansion is a significant reduction in braking power. The hose is expanding, giving a larger volume for the fluid, which means you are not building as much pressure in the system for the same pull of the lever. Pumping the brakes to build enough pressure to stop quickly is not preferred on a motorcycle. The risk of inducing a slide with the front tire in that type of situation, or coasting into the back of a car instead of actually stopping, or heading into oncoming traffic at a slightly reduced speed trying to avoid an obstacle isn't worth saving $100-$150.

    I don't like spending money where I don't have to and $150 is 25% of what I paid for my bike. Justifying braided lines is tough, but one bad stop quickly changed my mind on that.

    Stand in front of the bike, give a quick hard pump of the front brake like a hard stop, and watch the lines. See how much a set of 30-40 year old rubber lines expand.
    Even if the rubber particles clogging the M/C or caliper wasn't a concern, or the cracking and leaking, or potentially rupturing wasn't an issue, the loss of braking power alone should be enough to prompt replacing the lines with something much newer.
     
    XJ550FirstTimeBuilder and XJ550H like this.
  18. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    @Beer
    yamaha wants a complete rebuild every 4 years.
    going ss over rubber is a personal choice but the ss will last a longer time than oem rubber.

    I agree with you on the importance of being able to stop in a timely manner.

    I like to rebuild calipers and MC on every bike I ride. new lines to stay inline with the maintance schedule and ss on oned I ride the most.
    new shoes for the rear.

    situational awareness is the most improtant part in the brake system. no matter how good your system is being aware of whats happening in front of you is the best tool.

    I have seen many videos that suggest working your brake like an abs system to stop you quicker rather than a hard lock up stop.
    if the bike cant stop it shouldent be rode
     
  19. Brent NZ

    Brent NZ Active Member

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    The Seca 650 has 3-80 stamped on the lines - has anyone got an XJ with older brake hoses?
    They have been removed & are being replaced.
     

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  20. KeithK

    KeithK New Member

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    New here to the page. In the process of updating/upgrading my 81 XJ650. I’m trying to replace my lines and master cylinder. Any suggestions? Can I rebuild the old one?
     
  21. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam

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    Yup you can rebuild existing. Chacal runs the best XJ parts shop in existence, you can email him with what you need or click on the Everything XJ logo in the upper right corner of this page for the catalog. The catalog is a little tricky to navigate at first but he has almost every part available and the knowledge and service is second to none.
     
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  22. KeithK

    KeithK New Member

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    Thank you for the help!!
     
  23. Lodewijk

    Lodewijk Member

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  24. DarinAdkins

    DarinAdkins Member

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    Great informative brake passage having vast variety of knowledge regarding brakes. Not a single parts manufacturing company give life time warranty of any product. So riders must be aware of tempting and appealing motorcycle replaceable objects, the way you shared your experience of brake changings is just extra ordinary especially you elaborated with pictures.
     

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