XJ and quite frankly, cycle noob.....

+1 on bias ply being fine. I run Dunlop 404's and can scrape pegs without issue.

 

I would never "drag a knee". My knees are bad, and I have very little experience on asphalt. I agree with you both. I think I should be more concerned with the appearance, and crowning. I like what I'm hearing about these Shinko's.

 

On the street actually touching a knee down is uncommon. Hanging off however is a good technique to learn. When you come into a blind corner that you think is a constant radius (because all of the earlier ones were) turns out to be a decreasing-radius corner, you'll be able to use your body as a counterweight to allow the bike to be upright enough to go through the corner without touching the hard bits, and without needing to risk upsetting tire grip by suddenly slowing down.

Here's a book for you. Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough.
There are several others worth reading, but his is geared toward the everyday street rider.

 

I love it. And my better half will get allot from it too. And i t appears the Avon AM26's are the best fit for me. I can get a rear in 130/70r18 and a stock sized front to match. V rated, bias-ply. Thanks for everyones input!!!

 

Book ordered. Thanks K-Moe!


Whipped this up tonight at work. I'm going to have to make another set. The spring, (and the cheap-ass all-thread I used), bowed a bit too mush for my comfort. I'll have to compress them evenly. I want to get these puppies apart and see if the chrome is worth polishing, or if I'm painting them black (with red springs?)

 

That actually reminds me.... I was wondering about viscosity flexibility with the forks..... I definitely need to drain whats in them and inspect what comes out for evidence of corrosion. I also thought I might even test strip the fluid. When i push down on the front theres not much damping and it sounds like aeration. I imagine they're low. Hopefully the valve stacks are intact

 

Valve stacks? Simple damper rods in yours. No valves.

I think that RaceTech makes cartridge emulators for the 550 still.

The general consensus is that a good 15 wt fork oil is the best compromise between damping and responsiveness. I went 20 wt for a while and found it to be harsh (high speed compression damping pretty near locked the forks up). But all that will depend on you, your weight, your cargo weight (if any) and road conditions.

 

Well, I'm 155lbs with a helmet, chaps, and jacket. And there wont be much cargo. I like what you're telling me though. I should have known. KYB. So save for corrosion, and seal failure, these things probably don't wear out....

 

The bushings can wear (Chacal has new replacements), but other than that, and what you already mentioned, there really isn't much to wear out.

 

I should have put this here, not on "what did you do to your Yamaha today". K-Moe, Len, Dave Fox..... Anyone think this is salvageable? Cyl.4's carb slide is one piece with the bore, so I imagine the pitting there is worse. These slides appear to be coated. My fear is sticking issues down the road, if not an imbalance in the diaphragm caused by vacuum making its way past the slide.

 

I say it's worth trying. See how the bore cleans up with some finishing paper. The slide looks useable.
I also say that having a spare rack of carbs is never a bad idea.

 

It looks fine to me. I'd wet sand The bore starting with 600 up to 2000 grit. I'd do this either way, really. Just a light sanding of the slide, enough to get the crap off, but do not sand through the brass coating.

 

Well #4 is definitely shot.

 

those slides are anodized aluminum, the aluminum has corroded under the layer of anodize and it flaked off. basicly the anodize is aluminum oxide, the stuff sandpaper is made of. that's to the point i wouldn't even use it

 

Agreed absolutely. I've condemned it already.

 

I have an extra slide if you need it. you will have to put the seca needle in it

nc

 

That's awesome Paul!!! Diaphragm intact? And how much?

 

Learning math I hadn't in school.... I look forward to learning in a classroom again. I'm not even sure I've taken accurate enough measurements. But every time I cross subtract/add/divide/multiply, everything sums up. I'll be ready to start cutting plate/ tube soon! Before then, I need to build a vacuum forming table....


Don't panic.... the marks on the starter housing are pencil.... I had to find where my planes were in relationship to the center of it so I could calculate where they fell on the circumference of the tube. And does anyone know why bending paper is harder than metal? Almost ready to calculate the volume of the front half of the box.... Then I can use K-Moe's secret airbox calculator to find what remains of the necessary. At this point the center of this bike is the airbox lol.

 

.....I just noticed.... with the center gusset, it almost looks like a 4 eyed owl!!!! I'm praying it gives a hoot...

 

postage just leave me your address