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Xj550 seca electrical

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Andrew550seca, Aug 25, 2015.

  1. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    this is why i don't like tank liners. this is going to get worse before it gets better
     
  2. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    That's what I was afraid of. I haven't tried the "tumbler" method yet but I'm very skeptical about it even doing anything to remove the liner. I can literally pull as hard as I can on that piece you see in the picture and it doesnt come off. Doubtful that some bolts or gravel rolling on it is going to remove it. I'm guessing there's no chemical way to remove this?
     
  3. Xythin

    Xythin Member

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    You can use MEK to remove that stuff. It's super toxic and absolutely no fun to play with but it's "fast", If you don't mind taking some time you can fill it with vinegar and let it sit for a few days apparently vinegar will soften and lift the liner. Or if you don't care about paint you can take it to a radiator shop and have them "tank" it which just means they boil it and it removes everything but the metal.
     
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  4. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    well then leave it there :) But it seems there might be other flakes in there that tumbling would get out. Before you start into this you should have a close look at the bottom edges of that tank, maybe even use stripper.If you find and spots that might be patched or thin from rust, just start looking for another tank
     
  5. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    There is one spot that's "patched", looks like a wad a bubble gum or modeling clay was stuck on it. It doesn't leak or anything that I've noticed. Can't really afford a new tank right now so I'm trying to make-do with this one
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i'd still look into another tank, you never know what you'll find. tumble the one you have with a bunch of nuts and bolts, see how that goes. then that patch, i wouldn't trust one somebody else did. Solder would be the best way to patch it yourself unless you're a TIG welder.
     
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  7. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Ok so I'm getting pretty beat up about this gas tank. I stripped it to bare metal, got the inside clean as best I could with the tumbling method. Followed directions for painting it very carefully. Sanding, priming, painting, wetsand/polishing etc.

    Appearantly after using the paint remover/stripper (or maybe from shaking the bolts around I caused it), I must've removed some sealer that was used to cover a few pinhole leaks. Because after it was all repainted and let set for a few days, I put my repainted exhaust back on, put the tank back on, put a bit of gas in I was gonna fire it up but remembered the battery wasn't connected, so I hook it up, walk around to turn the fuel line on, I look down and there's gas drops on the ground. Gas was dripping through the pin holes that I didn't know we're there, and bubbled up the paint all around it in two spots. So I drained the gas out and took the tank back off. Apparently I didn't get ALL of the gas, because after having the tank turned over to sand and repraint and finish those spots, a bit of gas leaked out of the cap and caused a huge messed up spot around the filler.

    I'm getting annoyed with this tank, I've been looking for replacements. I've only seen one that's in decent shape and it's over $150+ shipping, which I suppose isn't terrible but I'd rather go cheaper, seeing that I already spent so much time and a bit of money on primer, paint, sand paper, bondo, and other misc stuff to get it refinished.

    Is that the average price for a tank?
    What other tanks will fit without ridiculous modification?

    I think I read somewhere that a honda cb750 tank fits with minor work?
     
  8. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    For now I'm just gonna slop paint it, I don't really care about looks at this point. Maybe I'll even sticker bomb it. Just until I find a replacement. It holds gas now, I jb welded the pin holes. So for now I don't care as long as I can ride before the seasons over
     
  9. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    that's the spirit !
     
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  10. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Ok so I ordered new exhaust head gaskets, and tried to install but on of the flange nuts is toast. Stripped and the threads are mush.

    Checked xj4ever and it's only like 3.×× for one nut, but it's like 5.50 to ship it. I can ship like 5lbs in a priority usps box for that price. You can put a nut inside an envelope and ship for like .50 ... so I'm looking for alternatives.

    Does anyone know the thread pattern or specific size so I can try to find a nut at a hardware store?
     
  11. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Just bring one of the good nuts to the hardware store and they'll match it for you. Ace Hardware, if you have them nearby, is a good source for metric hardware. Much better than the big box stores.
     
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  12. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    BTW, I skimmed this thread but couldn't tell whether you had solved the original problem. A common issue on these bikes is that the plug where the regulator/rectifier connects to the alternator overheats, due to bad connections on one its four terminals. The obvious symptom is a melted/burned connector, but the real cause is oxidation of the terminals in the connector. Eventually the connection goes from bad to none, and you're no-longer getting full, or smooth, power from the alternator. So, a first thing to check would be this connection to see whether the terminals need to be cleaned up or replaced.

    A second common issue is that the alternator brushes are just worn out... I don't think that usually gives the symptoms you're seeing, though.

    A bad regulator/rectifier can also result in charging issues. I don't get the impression that these fail that often, though.
     
  13. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Hey yea it was a real simple problem... the battery -- im a noob -- but yeah the battery wouldn't hold a charge at all. I got a new one and leave it on the charge. Bike still isn't road worthy so it won't be getting charged by riding it.

    I wish I could change the title of this thread, my original question was electrical but now it's just turned into my "build" thread
     
  14. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    6 x 1 for those nuts.
     
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  15. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Everything is back on the back, I go to fire it up, it starts and runs for a second then dies.

    I figured it was because there was no fuel in the system except for that bit in the carbs. So I put petcock on pri, hit the starter and nothing. Put petcock back on on/run whatever, nothing.

    I have an in line fuel filter and I can see its dry, there is no fuel getting to it.

    If I put it on pri and like shake the bike back and forth while looking at the fuel filter I can see it drip drip into the filter. Not sure what's happening, I opened the drain screws on the carbs and fuel came out.

    I have no idea why it won't start. If I stay on the starter for a while and give it some throttle, it will sputter and sometimes start for a second, then die.

    Any idea what to check?

    EDIT: my petcock was good, I opened it up and checked the gaskets and such when it was off the tank. And the bike started a few days ago before I changed the oil
     
  16. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    No fuel flowing on Prime kind of means a bad vent in the gas cap or a major blockage in the petcock.

    You can verify whether lack of fuel is the issue by spraying starting fluid or propane (from an unlit torch) into the airbox. You should be able to start and run for a few seconds off of these.

    On the other hand, it could be flooded or some other fuel or ignition problem, and fuel might not be flowing because the floats, needles, and seats are working as they should and cutting off fuel flow from the tank when the bowls are full.
     
  17. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Can't be a blockage unless something somehow got inside it after I mounted it back on. I cleaned it and checked the gaskets. I don't have starting fluid or propane so I guess that's out of the question.

    Really starting to get aggravated with this thing, if it's not one thing it's another thing. I'll never get to ride before the seasons over
     
  18. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Dumb question...are you using the choke?

    Gary H.
     
  19. Andrew550seca

    Andrew550seca Member

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    Yea I have the choke all the way open, it's the only way I've ever been able to start the bike.

    I finally got it to start and stay running, I had only put about a gallon of fuel in it. So I got some more and she started up and ran. But still seems like a fuel shortage as she stalls out after 2 or 3 min, if I use the choke about halfway she'll stay running, if I use it all the way she revs over 2k, and if I use less than half she dies. But she stalls regardless about 2 min of running.

    And also, I still have an exhaust leak from the headers, I replaced the gaskets and they didn't seal worth shit. So I doubled up the gaskets as I've read that with aftermarket exhausts sometimes you need to. And it's still leaking from 2 of the pipes. I have the bolts f***in wrenched down tight as tits to make sure I wouldn't get a leak. And what do you know, a leak.
     
  20. Alan63

    Alan63 Active Member

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    How much fuel did you put in the tank.
    Cuz the bottom third is reserve
     

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