XJ750J Refurb

That should be the neutral switch. The oil level switch is further back on the pan, more toward the center. The oil level switch has a pigtail coming out of it, where the neutral switch just has a single wire attached by a crosshead JIS screw.
Degrease it and find the weeping oil.
The exhaust collector has to be removed in order to get the sensor out.
The collector is difficult to remove with the headers still in place, and pretty impossible to remove separately if it's been on long enough for rust to build up around the gaskets.

 

hmm... Too bright out now, I think, to get a good look now. Couldn’t spot it. I’ll have wait til dark and try with a flashlight. Maybe i figure out which wire and trace it down to the pigtail.

 

do easy first replace the crush washer just a couple of bucke
the neutral switch can be removed with a special socket with exhaust in place

 

Yeah, I think that's the approach I'll take now. I've moved on to a starter rebuild.

But... tell me more about this special tool for the neutral switch? I don't need to bother with it now, but I'm curious about adding that tool to my arsenal!

 

it is a socket that has been cut away on the sides to fit into the cramped space
xj4ever sells them
Neutral Switch Tools:

HCP15718 Aftermarket neutral position switch REMOVAL SOCKET. On many models, it's almost a physical impossibility to remove the neutral switch from the crankcase "well" without removing the exhaust system or removing the engine from the frame.....the left lower frame tube conspires with the exhaust system to make it unbelievably difficult to access the switch. This special "open side" socket is the proper size to squirm through those restricted spaces and make it possible to remove and re-install the position switch without going through a tremendous amount of effort. Standard 1/4" drive socket should be used with a 3" extension bar, or, it's even easier to use when attached to the HCP13516 flexible shaft driver listed below.


HCP13516 Aftermarket flexible "spring shaft" 1/4" SOCKET DRIVER TOOL, just the thing to use with the HCP15718 socket above to reach the neutral switch. Large plastic handle with 6" long flexible shaft.

 

I spent a little time cleaning up/dielectric greasing a few connections on the bike today, and I'm curious about a couple things around the regulator/rectifier area:

You can see in the photo below, there's a relay (ignition? brake switch?) zip-tied to the frame. I haven't found yet in the manuals where that originally should go. Also, I noticed that the plastic plate that the regulator/rectifier are mounted to only has one screw, where it attaches to the old chain & lock cubby hole. It's got the frame clips up top... but the way that thing shifts back and forth, I wonder if there's another anchor point that it's supposed to have? Not seeing one, but I figured I'd ask.

 

oh...maybe that's the starter circuit cut-off relay? oh.. damn. nope. That's under the tank. ok... still stumped.

 

It would have had a rubber holder that goes on this peg

 

By any chance, anyone got one of the little relay boots that the sidestand relay sits in, under the cdi?

Basically, one like in this pic: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/182788132526-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

 

The 4U8 is the sidestand relay, it should have a spot of blue paint on the latching tab.

HCP11105 Aftermarket rubber RELAY HOLDER for original metal-lid "cube" type safety system, headlight, sidestand, fuel pump, etc. relays. This grommet has a square opening (it's a copy of the original grommet), and molded of a thick-wall rubber compound. NOTE: does not fit the later style plastic-lid cube relays. Each:

 

Hah! I made the assumption you wouldn't have those... Silly me!

On a side note, mine definitely has the blue mark, but I swear it says 4U6-00.. I've looked at so many angles trying to see if it's an 8 with the number scuffed, but it very much looks like a 6.

 

Gotta be an 8.........there are no 4U6 relays. Time for new glasses!

 

I've pulled the clutch cover and taken out the plates. I'm looking at the basket wear, and .... hmmm... I think its ok with a little smoothing, but maybe not? On a few spots, I can feel the wear edges by running my fingernail along each rib. Maybe not all of them, but definitely a few.

I want to get more experienced opinions. I'm not sure that'll smooth out with just a scotchbrite. Maybe I'm being overly cautious. Dare I file on those edges a little and suck out the filings & dust?

Here are some pictures, as best I could manage. Not sure if they'll give a good idea of the wear. The outer basket seems ok at first glance. It's the inner basket I'm a little concerned about.

 

While I'm waiting for an oilstone to come in the mail so I can clean up the baskets... I've found a mystery washer.

Walked up to the work table this morning, and saw this little washer sittin' there lookin up at me, all lonely-like. No idea where it came from. The only recent parts on the table have been the starter and the Clutch cover + clutch pressure plate. And I don't think it goes to any of those things. oh, and I rebuilt the gas cap. I know it's not the washer that goes in there, because I've got video of myself putting it back. But that is close to what it looks like

Figured I'd see if somebody recognized it before I chalked it up to mischievous ghosts trying to confuse me.

this thing:

 

Looks like a crush washer from oil drain plug? Or a brake line crush washer ?

 

I think that's just the lighting and the gunk on the washer. it's steel. I should've cleaned it before the photo instead of after. At least I'm feeling a little more like it's not some essential part trying to escape.

 

Spacer washer for the armature shaft in the starter motor?

If you had specific dimensions (ID, OD, thickness, material) that might help to identify it.

 

ok - I'll get dimensions when I'm home tonight. Is there another one, aside from the 'thin' washer and 'thick' washer that are on the armature? Maybe I didn't notice a 3rd washer?

 

Ok.. dimensions for my mystery washer.

Outer diameter = 17.3mm
Inner diameter = 11.9mm
Thickness = 1mm

I’m pretty sure it’s steel.

 

So... I threw together a video of replacing my steering head bearing... but I wouldn't call it my best work... at all.

I can't bring myself to put it in the 'how-to videos' section. Maybe y'all can get a laugh out of it and decide for yourselves?