YICS Tool Rental?

I made the tool for my XJ1100 to the exact measurements, I was not long enough to seal the # 3 and 4 cylinders. I had to make it longer. Anyone working on a XJ1100 keep this in mind.

 

Will this YICS tool pictured work on my 82 XJ1100?
TECHLINETOM

 

Silicone tubing is available at Summit Racing ( www.summitracing.com ) through Mr.Gasket. It is listed as vacuum hose. The O.D. of the tubing isn't listed but I will try to find out.
TECHLINETOM

 

Does anyone know if the YICS tool sketched by Snosherrif will work on an 86 XJ700S?

 

There is only One YICS Tool.
The Yanaha Special Tool.

I had always thought there was something funny about the Web / DYI version ... so I visited my Local Dealership and measured the Real McCoy.

The Rubber Hose sections on the Web DYI are off by a few mm's.

I measurued the real tool and put the exact measurements in a thread I can't find. Maybe because I came-up with the Brain-fart that eliminated the Tool if you stuff the YICS Passage.

 

Will this tool work on an 86XJ700S?

 

I'd bag the Tool.
Get a wooden dowel long enough to go ALL the way through the YICS Passage.
Undo the Plugs on BOTH Ends.
Cut "Patches" of old athletic sox and soak them in Carb Cleaner.
Shove them in one side and out the other until the Passage is CLEANED-OUT!
Put the Right Side Plug back in very LOOSE>
STUFF the Passage.
Using long strips of Cotton Tee-Shirt saturated with Marvel Mystery Oil ... stuff the Passage so tight that NO Air movement is possible.
Tighten the two Plugs.

Do the Sync and Tuning.
Open the Plugs and remove the Stufffing.

Done!

 

Yes, the YICS tool will work correctly in ALL xj-era bikes that have the YICS system in it! It is copied from an original factory tool that Yamaha specifies using in order to properly synchronize the carbs. It absolutely prevents any vacuum signal migration from one cylinder to another, thus allowing a synch to be true and not "contaminated" by a vacuum draw from another cylinder (besides the one being "synched") via leakage thru that YICS passage.

As Rick points out, there are other ways to accomplish the passage block-off! The YICS tool is what the factory recommends.

 

I have the tool.

It's not as messy as stuffing oil soaked tee-shirt in there.

 

yeah i'm trying to synch these carbs. you say to sneak it up to 1400 to 1600rpm, do you keep the revs up at that rpm to synch them? i set the idle @ 1500 and started there, i did 1&2 the bike started running better the rpm jumped to 2500 so i dropped the idle back to 1500 rechecked 3 the vacuum had increased bout a 1/8" passed where i checked marked so i rechecked it and set 4 to what 3 was reading. while doing that the rpms just took off was headed to 4000 when i cut the switch off. i reset the idle down to 1000rpm. it sounds fairly good. is there a rpm i can set it at to tweak the carbs at? and any idea why the rpms want to jump to 4000?

 

You need to come down more on the Idle.
1,500 is slightly Off-Idle drawing a little bit of Main Jet Fuel.

Keep the Idle at below 1,050 if you can do it.
You might have to adjust the Throttle Cable Tension Adjustment to get the Throttle Plates to close completely.

Then, when the Carbs are actually dependent on the Idle Adjustment Rod ... use the Idle Adjustment Rod to sneak down the Idle as you do the Sync.

Otherwise, the aamixture is going to be too Rich, and you'll get a "Too Rich Hole" coming off Idle that will cause the Bike to hesitate before it "Catches-up with the right amount of Air needed to sustain performance getting out-of-the-hole!

 

After reading through most of this tread I have some questions:

Will the homemade YICS tool work if adapted to seal the outside of the engine on #1?

Has anyone actually seen the fuel line rubber of the DIY model melt?

Rick, have you found the thread where you give the precise measurements of the dealer model YICS tool?

Thanks for all the helpful info!

-Rich

 

No. I haven't got the thread figured out.
I lost all the stuff I wrote when my Dell Died and I switched-over to this new Mac.

Having a YICS Tool with the proper spacing eliminates the need for an end plug to stop air from getting in while tuning.
The Factory spacing closes-off the individual Ports and seals any place that air could get in to the passage while the tool is expanded.

 

I looked for the thread and couldn't find it.

When I can, I'll measure my home-made tool; because I used the Factory measurements making it.

I'll Post those measurements on here tonight.

 

Yes, there are many who have used fuel line and found a gooey mess after it melted. The mess can be cleaned. The real issue is the melted rubber getting to the YICS ports and blocking them.

The exact dimensions:

The three compressible seals are 10mm BEFORE compressing.
The large seal is 13mm wide.
The long sections are the same and are 122mm in length.
The smallest section is 21mm.
The latch end section is 40mm.
Diameter cannot exceed 9.5mm. Otherwise the tool will bind (the passage is 10mm) and you will have no fun extracting it.

 

would 1/4" all thread work

 

Has anyone found silicon tubing in Canada?

---p

 

Hello...

I've bought and built the tool and have negative experiences with both. Basically, the area gets too hot for the rubber and you can spend a lot of time degunking the passage with a bent piece of wire, trying to remove the tool and recovering bits of rubber. I've used silicone high temp tubing also. It get TOO hot. It's tough to get a good seal.

I don't even screw with the blanking off the passage. My approach is to balance the carbs with mercury carb-stick (home made) and then use color-tune to adjust each cylinder. Re-balance with carb-stick, temp probe the exhaust and then read the plugs.

 

Would anyone have the part number for the original yamaha YICS tool? I'd like to see if I can find one out there somewhere. Thanks.