Your Carbs NEED to go CLUNK!!!

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Enrichment Circuit

The Cold Start Mechanism for this Engine is NOT a Choke.
It's an Enrichment System.

The Enrichment System begins with the Siphon Tube, Fuel Bowl Well (Reservoir) and associated Metering Ports, Jets, Passages and Plungers ALL being CLEAN ... passing Fuel and delivering the Starting Enrichment Fuel to the Combustion Chambers.

If your Enrichment Circuitry isn't operating at FULL Effeciency, ...
Getting the Bike to Start and Run from dead Cold is going to be VERY Difficult.

 

Rick,
I think I've read some of your stuff in Hustler.

 

Not likely, ...

I can't imagine why you'd say that.

 

Enrichment wells not clear as Rick suggested;

and/or

Float Levels. How did you adjust/verify them? You need to use fuel and the clear tube method; dry-setting is only a starting point.

 

mr fitz, i checked the floats using dry and tube meathod and they look great. as for the choke i did remove them and clean inside the ports and all the related components. so i should be good there. my bike doesnt rev up anymore either it was slightly out of sync i suppose the blades were hanging up because of it. but now i have a different problem ill post

 

Rick, I like the post and the way you've written it ;-) Even in my Duthc-English it's funny (and makes me wiser )

 

When I first came-aboard, I tried to get the process mixed with some details that made it fun to read and urge the reader to give the procedure a try.

Back in 2006 I started trying to see if I could just help-out one guy at a time.
It turned-out that "The Old School Method" got to be as much fun for me to write as it was for folks to read and try.

Over 10,000 Posts ago; it was as much fun as it is now.
I really do believe this Forum deserves to be featured in a Bike Mag.
There have been some absolutely amazing stories told on here.

We have people that go out of their way to help others get a bike in shape.
Plus, I just finished-up a set of Carbs sent to me with Parts ordered from our very-own chacal, that got here in good time and made "Getting the parts" the easiest part of the job.

 

Just wanted to post this video to show what this looks like. The left side has not been cleaned or polished. The rest have been done.

Clunk Video

 

I have to agree with what RickCoMatic said above. The biggest part of my decision to buy my XJ, honestly, was this site. All bikes have problems. What distinguishes our XJ's from the others is the best moderated, best manned, most helpful, and most productive website I have EVER SEEN.

I challenge anybody to go to another forum and find posts that are so meaningful combined with "arguments" that come to a real resolution, rather than end in a flame fest.

Sure, there are perennial disagreements, but at least some of them have been resolved since I've been here. For instance, I don't see any car oil being recommended for a motorcycle anymore.

The only recommendation I would make is if someone, anyone, would have more authority over the "FAQ" section. I think some of these resolved disagreements as well as the known issues/solutions should have a permanent, easily accessed, centralized space.

But what do I know, I'm just an EN2.

 

Since writing the article, I've been through a couple of transitions to get the Carb Bores Cleaned and Polished.

1. Cleaning Tool:

Using a 19mm - 12 Point Socket that has been SHARPENED to use -- "Cookie-cutter Style" ... I cut-out 19mm Discs of Gray ScotchBrite Pad and mount 7 Discs on a Dremel Sanding Bit ... using External Star Locking Washers resting on Flat washers to keep the Discs moving on the Bit.

This arrangement, I very nicely trim into a "Ball-shaped" Scrubbing Tool and use to Burnish the Bore free of Oxidation.

2. Polishing:

Using a DREMEL Buffing Wheel and Jewelers Rouge's No.-5 & No.-6, ... apply a Polished finish to the Diaphragm Piston Bore.

 

Something else you can use i am sure it doesn't work quite as well is. Cut a coat hanger bend it over 180 degrees with a pair of pliers so its tight against its self cut a piece of 600 grit sand paper long ways Fold it in half long ways slip it in the coat hanger in the middle of the sandpaper. Put it in a drill get the flaps in the bore and hone it out

 

LOL This really made laugh!!! I think everybody knows how that feels!!

 

Jmemmer, an excellent illustration for folks that really need to see something to "get it". Thanks for the contribution that reinforces many of the positive and true comments in this thread about what makes XJbikes so awesome.

 

Firstly can I say a huge thank you to everyone for the help provided. The bike we have is a 1984 XJ 750 Seca fitted with Hitachi carbs. It exhibited many of the problems described in these hallowed pages. Consequently the valve clearances were adjusted carb bodies polished etc etc. Despite all of this, the bike would not idle. As a last resort we took the mixture adjustment screws out to check them. We found a small amount of white furry deposits, ie corrosion. When I say a small amount, I mean very very small. The carbs were set with a colourtune. Once this had been done, the carbs were balanced, and hey presto, problem solved.
Just for information, the bike would run fine and tick over great as long as the throttle wasnt opened past 3000rpm. Once past 3000 rpm it would not return lower than 3000 rpm. Not an option. We could get it to run superbly but then it would not tick over. Hope this is of some help.