A few questions

Hey!

Alright, so as some know, i bought an 83 maxim 750 a bit ago.

Its now winter and cold, so i wont be doing the rear brakes, brake lines, valve clearances yet, but it just kills me not being able to do anything!

So - what engine covers can i take off to clean/polish without having to replace an expensive gasket or will open up to have fluid go all over or will make me have to readjust something tricky?

As well as - with the bike i got an extra set of exaust pipes - the ones that come right off the engine that lead to the flat muffler type thing - well i have an extra (used but better shape) exaust set that came with the bike. The ones that are on there have a bit of surface rust, but are physically solid. but i figured i would swap them out to make it more astecically pleasing.

What i am wondering, is are there gaskets to where the exaust pipes attach to the engine?

And if so, would chacal have them? well i guess if you guys say yes there are gaskets, I'll shoot him an email.

Secondly, As its been pretty cold every time that i've ran it, there is water that leaks out at the point that the flat muffler thing attaches to the two main exaust/muffler pipes that go to the back. Is this cause for alarm or somehting i should fix? I have no idea, lol. all i know is that i have smelled the fluid and can say for sure that its only water. probably doesent matter once its moving? or when its warmer weather?

Lastly - the tires are as follows:

Front: Barracuda 100/90-19
Mfg. date: November 2003

Rear: Bridgestone spitfire 11r 130/90-16 M/C
Mfg. date: July 2006

The tread on both are outstanding, look new as ever, the sidewalls seem to be in perfect condition, no cracking or dry rot to be seen.

The front leaks a bit of air over time, but im assuming if i took it off the rim and re-mounted it, and double checked the valve stem, it would fix the slow lak issue.

Now, should i be safe and replace them both? or just the front? Or do you think i can ride them for a year?

If i should replace them, what tires do you reccomend? I know to stay away from that avery brand, but whats a good tire for a fair price? I dont have tons of money, but i want something that isint unsafe or garbage or you know, rediculous expensive....

And the front tire is not the stock size i see, as it originally came spec'd with a 3.25-19.

And the rear is also not the stock size as it came spec'd with a 120/90-18

What are the benifits of going with a different tire size and what size would you guys reccomend for both f/r?

Thanks guys!!!!

 

Heres a pic, you cant see the tires too good, but kinda. I have the fender and side covers off for cleaning....

BUT- You CAN see where the water drips - check it out!

 

Read your manual .. all the info you seek is there

 

Not all the answers to those questions.

Yes, there are gaskets where the pipes attach to the engine; that's covered here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29356.html chacal carries both styles.

There are also "gaskets" (seals?) where the pipes go into the collector, and between the collector and the mufflers.

The dripping water is condensation that's formed inside the exhaust system, another reason that occasionally starting a cold bike during layover is NOT a good idea. If that condensation doesn't get "burned off" it will cause rust in the system. Once the bike is fully warmed up, it will quit dripping.

Your rear tire IS the correct size; Maxims has a 16" rear wheel, Secas had an 18". You've stumbled upon a spec error somewhere.

Recommended replacement for the original front 3.25-19 would be a 90/90-19; however the 100/90-19 that's on there is a better choice, especially on a 750. I'd stick with a 100/90-19.

Your '03 vintage front needs to be replaced, period. You can go ahead and wear out the rear first.

Bridgestone Spitfires are not a bad tire for that bike; you might also be happy with Dunlop D404's. Neither is overly expensive.

 

Thanks Fitz, super helpful! I guess the other poster was right and the seals would be in the manual but not the tire and leaking stuff.

I will order up those gaskets when i get the brake pads then, that will work out well.

About the condensation, i had no idea that running it would be bad in the cold, it was freezing when i even signed the title, the pen wouldn't work for a while, haha.

And then when i took it around the block just twice because i couldn't stand not riding it at least once before the snow hit, it was snowing out - not enough to accumulate, but snowing none the less. I have since found this forum and am making sure its all safe.

So should i run it now to get rid of the water or ice thats in there? or is it too late? or?

This is where i got the spec on the wheel size, you are certainly correct about the rear, i did not catch that, totally my bad:

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_xj_750_1983.php

I will go ahead and try to find a new tire for a good deal and report back with a link.

Thanks again, I cant wait till i learn more and can give back to this forum rather than just take take take! lol

 

One more thing; on the directional switch, its pretty darn finnicky. Is that something that can be made more "clicky" or is it just something ill get used to? I found myself switching it too far back and turning the other signal on every time i tried unless i really really focused on it...

 

You should be able to press the signal switch IN to manually cancel the signals.

If you can't, then the switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned and lubed. Use electrical aerosol cleaner and dielectric grease for lubrication.

EDIT: That is, of course, if it's the original signal switch.

 

Does this look original? I will go try that tonight as it is stored in a friends garage. I'm surprised that i didn't think of that, now i feel dumb, lol



and if its not big enough, you can go to the full picture here: http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii55 ... C_1239.jpg

 

Welcome.......looks like most of the questions have been answered.....Is your bike gonna be kept outside? If inside,heated or unheated? Do you have a workspace inside? Answers to these questions will determine what you do next. We do winter up here......

 

Hey 55, I was wondering the same thing about covers and gaskets and oil. All the side covers on my engine could use a polish and recoat. Which ones can come off without much trouble (especially dumping oil)? And does anyone have any recommendation for how to recoat? Gee, I wonder if I need new throttle shaft seals, too?

 

thanks! everyone is so nice and helpful here!

As for storage, yes, stored inside, not heated though. I pulled the battery and put stablil in the tank and ran it for a while though.

I sadly dont really have any workspace well thats warm anyway. I'll try hunting down a propane heater though

 

im going to be researching that tonight for sure, i have 2 essays to write first though, and studying for a chem exam, grr

 

i saw a pretty slick re-coating though, i haven't seen it nor know anyone who has, butttttt, i did see it on the internet! haha

here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4zvt_x9iY0

again, idk if theres something better out there or if this sucks - its just something i saw.

 

I hear you.....you can, however, if you want, remove the carb rack for a good clean....same with front disc caliper and remove old lines/master cylinder for rebuild....if you've got warmth and a table.....nice way to spend the winter.....!!

 

nice looking bike, two things, first charge the battery and take it back to the garage, cold slows chemical reactions, but you knew that, once a month or so give it a little charge.
second, once you shine aluminum it's easy to keep it nice, i'd stay away from any over coating, heat might not bother that stuff but what about gas or oil or UV ?

 

wont the battery crack though? it can get pretty cold here, the battery on my dads scooter has cracked in years past, till he learned his lesson and remembered to take it out and put it in the basement

 

a charged battery doesn't freeze until it's real cold, like -50F i think. thats why you have to keep it topped up once a month.
if it gets that cold you have bigger problems

 

I keep all of mine in the "mudroom" where it's not freezing cold but not toasty warm either; and rotate my battery maintainer between the four of them over the course of the winter.

Polock's right about polished aluminum; it's actually easier to keep it nice if it's NOT over-coated. The biggest challenge to polishing up the aluminum to begin with is getting the old original clear lacquer off first. (Aircraft Paint remover.)

 

so youre saying that i should just sand everything down and then leave eveything raw? I would have thought it would scream oxidization...

I sanded one side cover with 1000 grit, rubbing compound, polishing compound, and then wax. but it still has faint scratch marks visible, even though its super smooth.

Im almost certain that i have posted these, but oh well, haha

 

You strip, WET sand with finer grits, then polish. You can machine-buff, if you want to go for the "chrome" look; I prefer just highly-polished.

The process is pretty much the same as here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=22125.html except you can skip the boiling for all-over polished parts.

Once polished, the aluminum holds up well with just an occasional touch-up. This bike was kept outside, in Michigan, with nothing more than a canvas construction tarp for a cover in the winter; PO treated it like a lawnmower. It was seriously corroded gray. Then I got ahold of it:

 

wow!!!! that looks sharp!! lots and lots and lots of hours sanding and buffing i see

Are those the spitfires? I think I'm going to get a Bridgestone spitfire for the front instead of the dunlop. as for the rear, how much longer do you think it may have left in it? or is it all dependent on tread wear?

I really like the wheels on there over the usual ones you see, real nice.

and did you strip everything completely? it looks to shiny inside all the cracks

which side covers can i take off to polish without making a mess or mashing up a gasket?

Thanks!!

 

You're ok to run the engine now and again - just make sure you run it for a couple of minutes longer after the condensation has stopped dripping out - that way it will get hot enough to dry the exhaust inside.

Running it for a while once a week or so also has the benefit of refreshing the petrol in the float bowls - cos you certainly don't want your carbs to gum-up (see the myriads of posts/problems with this!)

The carbs on these bikes are particularly susceptible to modern fuel additives which cause this problem - the Amal carbs on my Bonnie can, conversely, sit for literally months and then run perfectly - bigger drillings/airways, I suppose.

If you can get hold of an Optimate (trickle charger) for the battery, you can leave it on that all the time.

 

Regarding tyres, everyone has their own opinion/favourites - but, as far as I'm concerned, the only tyre for these bikes are Avon Roadriders.

Now watch everyone jump in with alternative recommendations...

 

Regarding tires, I'm not going to argue; the only drawback to the Avons (I have them on my '83) is a rather short service life. But I love my Avons.

In answer to the questions about my white bike above;

-That bike has Dunlop D404's on it,
-The Seca 550 came with straight spokes, the only USA-market XJ that did other than the 900 and 650 Turbo (and those were a different style,)
-ALL of the aluminum was stripped, sanded and then polished. Final polishing done by hand so as not to get it too "chrome-like."

The only cover I can think of that doesn't have a gasket (on your bike) is the RH crank end cover. The ignition cover (LH crank end) has a gasket, but no oil or anything behind it. The clutch and shifter covers on your bike DO have oil behind them AND gaskets.

On a bike this old, plan to replace any gasket you disturb for the first time in 30 years. Afterward, many are multi-use; but they generally self-destruct the first time.

 

mtnbikecrazy55
i have a 1983, your gauges look like mine, your overall bike looks better than mine. color of my bike is maroon. follow big fitz's advise, have and it has not failed me yet. thanks big fitz

 

You are more than welcome; thank you for your confidence. Glad I could help.