'83 Xj550 Seca Restoration Project

Hello everyone, this is my first bike and restoration project. There is a lot of work to be done as the bike has been left unattended for 15 years in a backyard. The bike has 22k miles and the previous owner has guaranteed that the engine was top notch last time he used it. This does not concern me as I intend to do a complete overhaul of the bike.
Since my budget is tight I'm going to do most of the work myself. This doesn't scare me as I am a mechanical engineer (I work as a custom tool designer in the aerospace industry) and I am no stranger at assembling the stuff I design (or telling other people how to do it properly).
However as I have no experience in motorcycle maintenance I will gladly accept any help and advice you can spare. I intend to update this thread weekly until the end.

(roll of drums) This is the XJ

The exhaust terminals are "gone"... the underside of both terminals is completely corroded and almost non existent (only the chrome skin is still here ).
There is some rust on the frame but nothing serious at first glance, apart from this:

As you can notice the welded "rib", where the rear brake footrest is fixed, is almost completely corroded and you can bent it by mere foot pressure.

If it was you, what would you do first?
Thanks for watching.

 

Wow! Never heard of part of the frame rusting that bad. No that it is not possible, just never seen one. But it sounds like the actual frame is good. So you can reweld on a new machined rib (mount). First step is to make a list of parts needed and cost. To this end, I would first check the health of the engine. Don't rebuild if you don't need too. That is a big cost savings. Before purchasing anything, take the spark plugs off and throw in some (Kano Labs' Kroil, or Marvel Mystry oil) or anything else useable to lube up and help free up the rings as a precaution before turning the engine. Let is soak a few days then turn the engine by hand (use wrench on left crank shaft end). If it turns freely, go to the next step. Assuming it has adquate oil in the crank case, spray starting fluid into each bore of each caburator (3 squirts, throttle wide open). With the battery hooked to a portable battery jumper, try starting it (throttle wide open) and see if it will run for a few seconds. If the engine comes to life then you are ahead of the game. You can try doing the same thing using normal fuel going the carbs. You may get lucky and it will run that way too with the help of some starting fluid. But most likely, the carbs and fuel tank need cleaning first. Starting fluid bypasses all those possiblities. Don't even need the carbs mounted when doing the starting fluid test. Furthermore, you will have to assume that the brake master cylinder, caliper, brake shoes and pads will have to be rebuild or replaced. Tires will need to be replaced. Doesn't matter how good they look. Fifeteen years sitting they deteriate. I wouldn't want to go 70+ mph on the highway on 15+ year old tires. Any speed for that matter. Needs new exhaust ( could go with 4 to 1). New seat cover (you can do that very easily yourslef). You will most likely need a new chain (rusted internally) and may as well replace the two sprokets at the same time.

If the engine did start, it will require the usual maintenance items. Do check compression first. But be aware. Low compression doesn't nescessarly mean it needs a rebuilt. Could be that it needs a valve adjustment, or the rings are stuck from sitting. Driving the bike for a 100 or so miles should free stuck riings. First do a valve check and adjustment if needed. Change oil and filter (use JASO-MA certified or meets this standard, for wet clutch motorcycles). Adjust the the clutch and lube cables. Clean and rebuild the carburators. Lots more which others can chime in. But I wouldn't tear the engine down if it doesn't need it.

At this point you know what you have and how much to invest. The frame can be restored with new repairs and powder coated or painted. I'm sure you will find many other small details which need attending. That is all part of the fun. Good luck and enjoy yourself. Nice find.

 

first you contridict your self with "Since my budget is tight" and "restoration project". how deep of a restoration are you going to do?

the first step is to make sure you have a viable motor. compression check after the pistons have been oiled as suggested above.
once you make sure motor is free you also need to do a shim check and adjust to spec then repete compression test.
test good clean and test electrical system . wiring and all connectors, clean all controlers on handle bars and lube do not forget the ignition switch . ohm out the charging system. ohm out the ignition system. if all checks out good to go time to start cleaning those carbs to see if bike will start. the tci has no real test except to see if it starts the bike.

 

and just to note your bike is a euro model so it is not a Seca (US bike)
this link will help with wiring it is the best wiring diagram you will find
http://lumien.se/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html

 

Well my target is to have the bike in good shape again, maybe finish the all the details in the future. When I said that my budget is tight I meant that I'm going to do most of the work myself, as letting others do it will cost much more. AND this project will have a monthly budget as I can't afford to lay waste on my finances now that my firstborn is coming out...

 

check your inbox for link to a manual it is US seca but for most of the bike will be good for you
your Bike has dual disc and swirl wheels which the us Seca does not have

 

Click the first link in my signature.

 

Just found out that, since the previous owner had installed a top box, both rear seat chromed handle grips are missing... And of course the part is obsolete
In the next days I'm going to buy some ATF, mix it 50/50 with acetone and let it soak till saturday.

 

I was missing the "lift handle" as well. I found that they were just on the left side where you'd lift the bike onto the center stand. I bought a couple off e-bay, soaked in vinegar and cleaned them up. Installed the one I liked better and sold the other (nearly re-cooping my costs). They are out there. (like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-81-Yam...ash=item3f7e115f9d:g:PpwAAOSwTM5Y4HUC&vxp=mtr)

 

the grab bar is to help put bike on center stand. center standing the bike can only be done from left side due to the design of the center stand.
Very common for the grab bar to be lost with install of boxes.
the strap on seat is for the passenger to hold onto.

you could fab one from tubing until you find one.

 

Thanks for the link. I am glad there are many used parts around. In a worst case scenario, even if rusted, I can always have them chromed again.
I believe the euro model has two grips (one per side). Because the rear shock studs are both too long and the domed nut doesn't go all the way down. Anyway this is purely cosmetic and, as such, marked with "low priority" at the moment.

 

Welcome, agree make a list , make it safe first, new tires, brake hoses rebuild calipers , master cylinder, and while doing this rebuild forks seals are most likely dried out and may start leaking. Since bike appears to have stock airbox resist putting pods on , get bike to run , but carbs will need to be rebuilt go to church full tear down, spray carb cleaner will not cut it. expect to spend at least 300 to 500$ getting it up to snuff. This might sound high ,but in the end you will have a good running ,and very good looking bike, still cheaper than buying new.

 

Yes... Already leaking on the left side... lots of gunk on the slider.

No pods. Too much hassle and I prefer to keep this bike as close as possible to stock.

Well... I expected to spend between 1.5k and 2k € in a couple of years. The bike was free so, yes in the end it will still be cheaper than buying new.

 

We had the euro model here and I have yet to see one with handles on each side (I've had 4 of them)

 

I've done a small research last night and it seems there is a handle bar that goes from one side to the other, up the rear fairing. That explains the longer studs from both sides. However, I can make thicker washers for the nuts, to keep the shocks in position.

 

my Seca has thick washers on the shock studs to take up the space. that would be a nice touch adding hand bar across the back

 

I've been asking a few local resellers for ATF (of no particular brand or gradation, mind you) with no luck. You should have seen their faces
I think I will try first with some old trusty WD40.
As I have access to a virtually infinite supply of ISO 32 (low viscosity) and ISO 68 (high viscosity) hydraulic oil (we use it to lubricate CNC machine's transmissions) do you think it will do as well?

Btw should the engine be seized by rust (and I fear there are water infiltrations inside), will a cylinder rebore be necessary?

 

I've seen them called "lift handles," but they must have been available for both sides because the flat tang that connects to the shock stud is slightly angled up (or down, I don't know which it correct). It took some patience, but I found them on Ebay and installed them on both sides of my 82 650 Seca.

 

WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil.

ATF is automatic transmission fluid, which I'm certain is avaialble worldwide.

What you want is a light oil and a solvent to help carry it. Diesel and the oil you have on hand will do the job.

 

Somehow I was sure that wd40 had some penetrating abilities... Nevermind... I was going for the ISO 32 but in the end I got the ATF online from ebay. It should be delivered next week together with the starting fluid. ATF IS available in italy but not on the shelf as 90% here use manual transmissions (whose oil is what they wanted to sell me, W90 or W120).

Meanwhile I'll remove and empty the tank (still half full), hoping that the crankshaft will turn by hand (i.e. rust has not welded the rings to the cylinders).
Wife is almost ready to give birth, so updates could be slowed down in the next weeks. I'd like to thank everyone for the outstanding support