Help me start my bike!

The Carb Fuel Bowl Drain Screws are an essential element in tuning and storage.

They need to be opened to measure the Float Height and Removed to shoot Carb Cleaner in the Bowls for extended storage.

If the Heads of them are Bunged-up ... you have the room the make a new slot with a Dremel Tool ... and enough stock to Cut new slots after you get them out ... but, ...

With Stainless Steel replacements available from Makers in this Forum ... I'm putting a set of four on the list I'm handing-in to Santa!

 

rather than gasoline in a spray bottle, you can just use starter spray... it only costs a couple dollars. If you have spark, and the engine is turning over, then something is wrong air/fuel wise. Check/replace easy things first. Make sure there is fuel in the carbs (drain screws...) Check/replace air filter. Replace the spark plugs... (only 8 dollars...there was another thread that lasted for like 100 posts, still couldn't figure it out until the guy just went out and bought new plugs. bike started.) Make sure the battery has a full charge. Do that stuff and give it a try. If your carbs are alright, and in the ballpark adjustment wise, hopefully it will roar to life. If not try some starter spray. It should at least catch and run for a second.

....prime your carbs too....

 

Ok now I'm confused...and have more questions...

One question is, what position is the petcock supposed to be turned to? On or PR? I have been told both... Either way, there's fuel in the tank, and on the On, PR, or Reserve positions, bike still doesn't work.

When I stuck the key in today, and tried to start, I got NOTHING, no lights, no click, NOTHING. I decided to volt test the battery, came out with 12.06. So, decided to test the fuses. Standing on the right side of the bike, there was NO charge on the right side of any of the fuses (with key in ignition), but when I tested the left side, there were about 10.5 volts. Once I got to the headlight fuse, it sparked a bit, causing the headlight and neutral light to come on. After this, all the fuses had about 10-11 volts on both sides of them, and the bike did its usual turn over but not start deal. I tested the battery again, and it had 11.25 volts. WHY DID ALL THAT HAPPEN? Does this mean there is a wiring issue? Or maybe I need a new battery? Or new fuses?

I'm thinking of going and buying new spark plugs just for the heck of it, even though they look brand new, but I figure it can't hurt. I guess I might as well just buy a new battery too. And clean the carbs. And all the fuel lines. I just bought a new air filter because the "air filter" that someone has put in there was a kitchen sponge, no kidding.

Can someone tell me why I don't just buy a new bike?

 

I have wondered the same thing about the petcock... how does prime differ from On? When i put mine on prime and crank it over, bike doesnt currently run, i end up with fuel spilling out of the overflows.

Escali where in VA?

 

zYou don't want the Petcock on PRIME ... you want it on ON or Fuel ... straight up and down.

DON"T be fooled by Voltage readings. A fresh Smoke Detector Battery will read over 9 Volts.

You need AMPS! Pull the Battery. Charge it and bring it to a place that can tell you how much Cranking Current its capable of making.

The Volts will light your lights, but ... you need a lot of Amps to spin the Starter and have the Ignition fire the bike!

 

I took the battery and got it load tested a few days ago. I got it charged up and it was good. Why would the fuses just suddenly change between having volts and not though? Why did the lights just suddenly start working when I tested the fuses?

 

You have replaced your stock fuse panel?

 

That's not good. At the very least you've got really bad connections and need to spend some time cleaning connections. If you haven't replaced the fuse box, put it on your list of "Things to do". You've got power problems. There's no doubt about it. As far as the battery voltage measuring 12.06 volts, that battery is really only about 20 percent charged. A fully charged battery should measure 12.8 volts.

 

Don't spend a lot of time troubleshooting your Electrical Gremlins UNTIL AFTER you replace the Fuse Panel.

That Original Fuse Panel may look like it's OK ... but, It's Looong past it's Life Expectancy.

Cut it out of there and put-in a NEW highly reliable Fuse Panel!

Fuse Panel:

http://wirewerksperformance.com/index.p ... 87ee7829ba

 

Have you checked all the safety switches?

Kickstand switch
Sidestand
Clutch switch
Kill switch
Ignition

All have to work properly to close the circuit. find your bike on this page http://members.tripod.com/dave_jack/id39.htm print it out and study your bike carefully to make sure that all the switches and interlocks are there and working properly. I found the PO had just removed the side stand switch and engineered a bypass that had come loose.

 

You can do a preliminary test:

Unplug the Safety Circuit Relay.
The Bike should start if its in Neutral.

If the bike does start ... you have to troubleshoot the Safety gear.
Usually, the Side Stand Switch is the culprit.
Switch internal needs a lube.
Pull back Boot and shoot-in some WD-40.

Linkage to Side Stand Switch -- Binding.
Clean the whole Rod.
Clean-out and lube the little "Tunnel" the Rod passes through at the Top of the Side Stand.

Hook-up the Relay.
See what you got.

 

I GOT IT TO START!!!

Played around with things for a while, and it turned right over. Sounded a bit rough, but eased up after running it a bit. It seemed like the fuel wasn't flowing through that great, so I'm planning on cleaning the carbs, and I'll replace the fuse panel. I think the fuel has just been kind of sitting and stopping things up for a while now, and it just needed a kick or two to get it flowing again. BUT IT RUNNNNNS!!

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP! I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS WITH OUT ALL OF YOUR COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS! (unless I paid some shop 3x whatever is in my bank account)