Old Bike, Possible New Project.. New to Mechanics..

For the exhaust flanges: as long as you used new gaskets, and tightened them evenly you should be fine. Most aftermarket systems have a simple stamped flange welded to the pipe the proper distance out from the head to "mimic" the original, cast flanges. New gaskets would be the key, along with proper torque (not a lot, only 7.2 ft/lb IIRC.)

Is this "new" master cylinder new; or just a different used one? The "two metal fins" are probably connectors for a brake light switch.

And you are replacing the brake lines, right? With NEW parts?

 

The exhaust end that goes into the block doesn't go 'in', they meet at the hole lip. I wasn't aware it needed to be torqued down, I just tightened it by hand, I'll have to borrow a friend:s torque wrench. I haven't put gaskets on and didn't notice any there, though I plan on getting some, was mainly getting a fit for the exhaust (gonna have to get someone to bend.the kickstand bar that is used to drop the kickstand, as it hits the exhaust now).

The MC is brand new. I bought it from my friend that sold me the bike.

I haven't gotten new brake lines yet, I was hoping to get steel braided lines, but with the AGM battery I need to get being more Expensive than I thought and other things I'm needing to buy, I'll probably just stick to OEM.

 

There are gaskets; they usually get so pounded into the head you have to dig them out, and a lot of folks don't realize they're even there.

Check it out: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29356.html The ends of the pipes should "go in" a few MM before meeting the gasket.

As for using a torque wrench, yes it's a good idea but we're only talking 7.2 ft/lb. You need a low-range torque wrench for this and many other things on the bike.

You might also want to read this if you haven't already: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=41400.html

 

Thanks! My gaskets are probably pretty jammed in there, I'll take a look this weekend for sure.

This is the MC/Handle I have, the plug I mentioned is the same as in this:
eBay Master Cylinder

Is there any way to adapt my current wiring to this?

 

Also, will something like this work for my brake lines? It says universal, I just gotta measure the size this weekend, but if these will work, they are real cheap compared to what I've found elsewhere.

Brake Lines

 

I'm ASSUMING, that all the brake switch is - is just an open circut that gets closed when the brake is pulled - therefore, i would assume, that if you just crimp/solder slide connectors on the stock wires, you should be able to plug them into the blades on the new M/C no problem.

 

A $34.00 Master Cylinder.
Remember: You get what you pay for.

At thirty-four bucks, ... it was probably made by a 10 year old orphan, earning 75-cents a month, handcuffed to a workbench, in a windowless factory, with the exit doors chained shut, no heat, the ceiling dripping when it rains, with a loudspeaker blaring-out the shrieking sound of a 33-1/3 recording of the Chinese National anthem, skipping on Gramophone Player, that a one-armed deaf and blind guy cranks thirteen times every time he receives an electric shock.

Or worse.

 

haha good late night imagination, rick

Polock has one, he seems to have had good luck with it.

 

I'd be more wary of cheap, "universal" unmarked, unbranded brake lines (oh, but they'll last forever) than I would of the aftermarket M/C.

 

Agreed. Don't scrimp on brake lines. They aren't expensive anyway. New custom SS lines should never be more than $50 per line. I had one made for $38 + tax. Even a short visit to the hospital (if you're lucky) will cost 20 times that much or more.

My rule for 'shopping' is NEVER buy the cheapest thing or the most expensive-you're being ripped off either way. Usually the 3rd or 4th item from the bottom price is a good, decent product, and just above the mid price is usually a great product.

Also per Rick's more real than imaginary comment, I try to buy as local as possible. Enough $ is leaving already.

 

Okay, so after watching eBay I finally found and bought a Master Cylinder, got it in and the dang thing was painted over. So the cap and the screws are all stuck. I tried using an exacto knife to cut around the screws and cap so I could unscrew them, but the screws just ended up stripping.

I contacted the seller and they said they could exchange them, they asked if this would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350752419839?ru ... 26_rdc%3D1

I've been trying to find info and I can't seem to find anything that states whether or not the XS650 Master Cylinder will work. The one they sent me looks like the screws may very well be rusted in there and not able to be taken out.. Seems like the issue I keep running into..

 

You can SAVE a Master Cylinder by Drilling-out the Screws holding the Lid on.

The Screws are soft.
They are easy to drill.
Have it done by somebody who has a Drill Press.

After the Lid is removed, ... Drill-out the Screws to the next oversize.
There's enough stock to be Drilled and Tapped.

After you get the new holes tapped, ... you have to Drill the Cover Holes to the oversize.
The Diaphragm Gasket Holes need to be enlarged too.

A Single Hole Paper Punch makes a nice clean hole in the Gasket.

 

You do plan to rebuild whatever junk master cylinder you get off eBay, right?

If I were you I'd quit trying to find just anything that "might work" get a correct M/C for your bike, rebuild it, and move on. Somebody else's used master will be just as in need of rebuild as an original correct one.

 

Yes, I intend on rebuilding the Master Cylinder, I wasn't aware I could drill the screws on it. I'll ask a guy I know if he has a drill press. He's also going to be bending the kickstand bar (the bar that drops it, not the kickstand itself) so it won't hit the exhaust I put on.

 

Okay, so I pulled the bike out today to do a few things before it got dark. Found out the screw holding on the right hand controls was rusted and I couldn't get it out (already stripped too). Tried to drill it out with no luck. I have a replacement one, but I can't figure out how to get the throttle cable out without opening up the controls. Also haven't been able to find anyone with a drill press to drill out the screws for my Master Cylinder.

Completely forgot to measure the brake lines to order new ones and I think I broke that plastic piece below the headlight that says 'YAMAHA', though I need a new one anyways as this one is yellowish.. Any clue what it is called so I can look it up?

 

The piece on the front is the "fork emblem". If it's just yellowed, repaint or rechrome it. If it is actually brittle and broken, then keep it as a spare once you find a good one.

You can't get the throttle cable out without opening the controls. The cable hooks into the throttle tube on the inside of the housing.

Use a dremel and make a new screwdriver groove. If that still doesn't work, grind the head off, or make a couple flat sides and grab it with small vise-grips and twist it either out, or off. Keep working at it.

If worse comes to worst, then just break it apart. There's plenty more of them still out there......

Dave F

 

I think a buddy of mine has a dremmel, never thought about that. I did try drilling the screw out, but that didn't work. I already have another one, the old one on the bike has a busted starter button and I wanted a good one and not the makeshift one that I have now.

 

Recreating a flat head slot is the easiest way to remove a small stuck screw. It can also be done with a drill and a small bit by just angling the bit along the screw surface from the middle to one side and again the opposite way. Also be sure and saturate the whole area with penetrator to loosen it's grip. Drilling a screw out is where you remove the 'head' that is holding 'whatever' and then it can just slide off what remains of the screw-but then you will still need to grap the nub afterwards and unscrew the threads.

 

Great News! My girlfriend talked to one of her coworkers whose husband does work on bikes. He came by today and will be coming by on some weekends to help with the bike. He's bringing an easy out tool next weekend to try and remove the screws and also gonna help do the rest of the work on the bike with me. I'm excited!

 

Let your friend know that if the EZ-Out attempt does not work-out as
planned, ... simply drilling the remnant to the next oversize is a simple solution.

The remnant if SOFT Steel.
Drills easily.

The M/C is Cast Aluminum.
TAPS easily.

The Cover Holes can be drilled easily.

The hardest part of saving the M/C by drilling-out the remnants is sizing the Holes on each end of the Reservoir Diaphragm.
A Single-hole Paper Punch will do that trick.