What did you do to your Yamaha today?

When you get really organized at Carb Cleaning you "Add Touches" to get them ... not only CLEAN ... But, Clean and Tuned; too.

Little stuff that adds-up in the long run.

Like, ... Sealing the Bowl Gasket to the Bowl and Oiling the Gasket Mating Surfaces.
Next time the Bowls need to come off ... they lift right off saving the Gasket.

Douching-out the slender, Brass Siphon Tube with an Ear Syringe full of Carb Cleaner.
Working the Bulb like un-clogging a toilet.
Making sure that the Starter Jet and Enrichment Circuit is CLEAN.

Chucking a Cap Screw in the drill and high-speed spinning the Emulsion Tubes to SHINE them using ScotchBrite. Shined Brass E-Tubes take longer to foul than ones you leave partially tarnished.

Re-finishing the Diaphragm Piston Bores.
Gray (Medium) ScotchBrite. Hit 'em HARD all around.
Then, ... Polishing them to Mirror Finishes with a Dremel and Jewelers Rouge.

If you do this ... your Bike is going to be a Pleasure to ride.
The Diaphragms lift-up quick to give you some bottom and rise quickly under load for excellent Mid-range and WOT.

Drop like wet bags of cement ... for Engine Braking when you close the Throttles needingn rapid deceleration and respond fast for matching rev's when shifting down to put some big power on!

Throw away every fastener you take-off the Tops and replace them with Allen Cap Screws to accentuate their high state of readiness.

Scrub the Bodies with Mothers using toothbrushes you steal from the restroom at the Dentists Office.

Aaaah, the glimmer of fine Cast Aluminum Alloy ...

Zen foe dee "Peace-dee-rezizz-taunts" ...

Using tweezers to dip the Pilot Mixture Screws in Tarn-X ...
Then, ... runnin' a M6 X 0.5 Bottom Tap down the threaded holes them Pilot Screws set-in for Maxim-mum Tweakage when the time is right!

Nothin' like it!

 

When you get really organized at Carb Cleaning you "Add Touches" to get them ... not only CLEAN ... But, Clean and Tuned; too.

Little stuff that adds-up in the long run.

Like, ... Sealing the Bowl Gasket to the Bowl and Oiling the Gasket Mating Surfaces.
Next time the Bowls need to come off ... they lift right off saving the Gasket.

Douching-out the slender, Brass Siphon Tube with an Ear Syringe full of Carb Cleaner.
Working the Bulb like un-clogging a toilet.
Making sure that the Starter Jet and Enrichment Circuit is CLEAN.

Chucking a Cap Screw in the drill and high-speed spinning the Emulsion Tubes to SHINE them using ScotchBrite. Shined Brass E-Tubes take longer to foul than ones you leave partially tarnished.

Re-finishing the Diaphragm Piston Bores.
Gray (Medium) ScotchBrite. Hit 'em HARD all around.
Then, ... Polishing them to Mirror Finishes with a Dremel and Jewelers Rouge.

If you do this ... your Bike is going to be a Pleasure to ride.
The Diaphragms lift-up quick to give you some bottom and rise quickly under load for excellent Mid-range and WOT.

Drop like wet bags of cement ... for Engine Braking when you close the Throttles needing rapid deceleration and respond fast for matching rev's blips when shifting down to put some big power on!

Throw away every fastener you take-off the Tops and replace them with Allen Cap Screws to accentuate their high state of readiness.

Scrub the Bodies with Mothers using toothbrushes you steal from the restroom at the Dentists Office.

Aaaah, the glimmer of fine Cast Aluminum Alloy ...

Zen foe dee "Peace-dee-rezizz-taunts" ...

Using tweezers to dip the Pilot Mixture Screws in Tarn-X ...
Then, ... runnin' a M6 X 0.5 Bottom Tap down the threaded holes them Pilot Screws set-in for Maxim-mum Tweakage when the time is right!

Nothin' like it!

 

Soooo Rick you like working on Carbs?

 

He's an ordained minister in the church.

 

Ummm... The bike doesn't come with tapered roller bearings. The stock bearings are ball bearings. I said I got the part numbers for the tapered rollers. I wasn't talking about the Yamaha part numbers...

Went over the electrics some more last night and found a lot of good news. The wiring for the flashers IS still on the bike. Found it buried under about 15lbs of electrical tape. Wiring is sound. Turn signal switch, though damaged, works okay. Found some spare bulbs and replaced the turn signal indicator and tach backlight in the console.

So what was the original problem that caused the PO to remove all the flashers? Flasher relay. Classic symptoms. Clicks once and then the lights just stay on. Relays from both 650s do it. Need to get a new one. Once that's done it'll be time to re-attach the front flashers, buy the back ones, and test out the cancelling unit.

For some reason, I have four regulator/rectifiers. Tested all the diodes in all the rectifiers and all are sound. Need to put the runner back together (gas tank is missing the mounting bolt!) and test the regulator part. I assume that since the bike fires up and runs that the ICU works properly. Bike wouldn't run otherwise, right?

Untaped the stock fuse box. REALLY need to replace that sucker as soon as possible and un-bypass the ignition fuse. Also still need to take the front wheels to the shop to see if they're true...

Spedometer cable appears to turn regularly and smoothly with the front wheel. Need to give it a few more spins just to be sure, but I think the problem is in the meter itself. Will have to take it apart and see what's broken/corroded/etc.

Also cleaned enough grease from the front end to lube the chain on the CBR. The PO had fiddled with the valve covers, but may just not have cleaned up after himself last time. Will have to watch that for leaks.

Oil light still doesn't come on. Will have to test the switch when I change the oil (soon!).

 

You don't have to use Ball Bearings when you rebuild the Steering.

You can convert to rollers.
Much easier to maintain and smoother ride.

 

The 750 turned 40K today! So.... I transplanted the windshield from the 550 onto it.

whaddayathink?

 

Sweet!

 

I removed the carbs and ordered a bunch of jets today. I figure, with the different sized jets I purchased, I should be able to get this bike tuned in fairly well.

 

What bearings do you use? I manage a branch of a national bearing and PT distributor and when I rebuilt my bike I tried to find tapered roller bearings (cup and cone style, some call them "Timken" bearings because Timken is the major manufacturer of this type of bearing). I could not find a set that had the proper inside/outside diameter combination. I'd be really interested in what parts people are using. I have a 1981 Maxim.

 

I don't remember the Brand Name.
I think it began with the letter "M"

They were sealed roller bearings.
I did my front wheel, rear wheel and steering head with them; two years ago.
I'll look for the invoice and the sizes.

 

I managed to blow my engine up.

Burning a whole load of oil, fuel getting into crank case and oil on headers 1 and 2, down that side of the engine and on the fairing.

My babs has died.

 

Maybe you only blew a Head Gasket.

Did anything come through a case or was there severe knocking when the "Blow-Out" occurred?

The Cooler weather is a Head Gasket Killer. Particularly, if you don't warm-up the Engine for a few minutes before setting-out for a chilly ride.

The Block is Cold and the Head gets all the heat. If there's just enough differentiation in the warming-up process ... the Gasket blows-out between the Number-1 and Number-4 Cylinders.

Not waiting for the engine to heat-up can be an expensive mistake to make. The gasket alone is in the 50-dollar or more range.

 

Well this morning after a period of rain and snow with the thermometer reading -3C (26F) she fired up first spin. The only question was - will there be any ice along the way to work because the road looked dry at the house. A few patches of ice but nothing serious.

Lots of nice late fall temps coming this week, so it looks like bikin' season (Bikin' Season...Wabbit Season) is on for a few more days. Yippie-oh-ki-ay.

 

Pulled the battery out.

 

I actually rode it. Between work and bad weather hadn't been on in nearly a month.

 

DUCK SEASON!!! :mrgreen:

 

The fairing look sreally good. Which fairing is that? I have been looking at a couple of universal shields, but I live in a small town and none of the dealers carry many choices and I am resistant to buy one without knowing how it will look on the bike.

 

I was playing with the idle a bit today and I noticed that the bike really doesn't want to run unless the Petcock is set to the Prime position. It get's starved for fuel in the On position (still runs, just misses and sputters). Otherwise I can knock the idle down to a grand and watch her idle and have great throttle response. I also noticed what seems to be a backfire or something it's not a loud pop but more like a cough at idle ans low RPM's. Time for some cleaning or tuning??

 

Replaced the clubman bars with a set of Superbike bars, had to remember which way the cables needed to be routed stock, so it took a little while. No more monkey hugging a football look for me and my back has stopped hurting so bad. Seems clubman bars or clipons must be for the younguns, cruzerjd